Questions about ND fitlers

Here is an example. Composition is poor ( no tripod so I wedged the camera into some roots ) but the color is OK. 30 seconds f 10 with variable ND at about 5 stops. At 6 stops there would be an X.
Yep, pretty good colors. I've noticed that some manufacturers set the limit just before the cross-effect occurs. For example Nisi 1.5-5 steps variable filter which my wife uses mainly for videos. In rapidly changing light conditions it might be a good option, furthermore it's also comfortable to take it anywhere with you instead of carrying several ND filters or even square filters (but i would honestly prefer carrying square filters ofc).
 
It's all the same glass cut to the size, iirc. so one review of any size should extend up/down.

I have a HOYA ProND, no complaints. I chose the largest size of my lenses, and use a step-down ring to fit onto any others.
I did the same thing. I use a Hoya graduated filter. This was my first attempt using a Canon Rebel DSLR. One of the older ones.

IMG_3520.JPG
 
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, which I lifted from the internet, is a 10 stop to much in that instance.

Given the amount of movement, that exposure was probably not much more than a second or two. At ISO 50 and f32, and depending on how much ambient light there was, it's possible a neutral density filter was not even used. But if was, 10 stops sounds like too much.

One other trick I will use is an ND filter and in body multiple exposure. So 10 10-second exposures overlaid on top of one another. The effect is to remove moving objects. So instead of blurred people in that scene, there would be no people in the scene. In that case a 5 to 10 stop would be necessary.
 
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Interestingly, while I know little about cinematography, I believe ND filters are used extensively in movie making. I think that very fast shutter speeds produce an undesirable effect and if one is shooting in bright light and wants a shallow depth of field (aperture open) an ND filter makes this possible.
 
Every film camera I've used in the past has a built in ND filter.
 
Interestingly, while I know little about cinematography, I believe ND filters are used extensively in movie making. I think that very fast shutter speeds produce an undesirable effect and if one is shooting in bright light and wants a shallow depth of field (aperture open) an ND filter makes this possible.

Unless of course you are Ridley Scott and Steven Spielberg. ;)
 
Circular / screw on ND Filters aren't as great as they are touted. You need the square sets with graduated ND filters included. Here's the thing:

You have a nice sunset, say at the beach. You have a single, screw in ND Filter at 10 stops. It stops the whole scene = defeats the purpose of using filters.

Doing serious landscape, you need the graduated ND. If you stop the whole scene down 10 stops, you still have either underexposed foreground, or over exposed highlights. Being able to stop down the sky separately from the foreground is key. The above images posted by Braineack demonstrate this perfect:

#1 Sky is ok. Main subject ( island ) is underexposed by a lot, and the foreground is also quite under exposed
#2 Again, sky is good. Main rock, facing camera is underexposed as well as the other subject rocks
#3 and #4 Sky is decent. Water is over exposed big time in both.

Not meaning to rip apart work here, just showing a single, screw in Filter doesn't do what most think it's going to. Most cases, you still have the same problem as NO filter : either underexposed darks ( foreground ), or over exposed highlights.


Every film camera I've used in the past has a built in ND filter.
Not sure what film camera's you're talking about. I shot film for 15 years before I switched to digital, and have never heard of this. I have a couple Minoltas, 2 Sp-1000's, a Nikon F1, and an old leica rangefinder. None of these have built in filters of any kind.
 
film as in video.
 
Circular / screw on ND Filters aren't as great as they are touted. You need the square sets with graduated ND filters included. Here's the thing:
Let me agree with some exceptions.
1) The dynamic range of nowadays fullframe cameras allows to bring up a lot of information from shadows/hightlights.
2) Bracketing also helps to widen the dynamic range but requires additional blending in postprocessing.
Yet I agree with you that using GND helps a lot, especially when you need to see in the field how the the final image will look. And btw the more I use GND the more I come to a conclusion that I need a reverse GND instead of my 2 steps GND. And a reverse GND will really help a lot in taking photos of epic sunrises/sunsets.
 
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film as in video.
I did not know that. Very interesting :disillusionment: Learn something new every day :allteeth:


TheLandscaper said:
"And btw the more I use GND the more I come to a conclusion that I need a reverse GND instead of mine 2 steps GND. And reverse GND will really help a lot in taking photos of epic sunrises/sunsets"


I may be out of the loop a little bit. I stopped hanging out on photo forums for quite a few years, thus, I'm not fully up to date on some things. Reverse ND grads being one of those things. I had only recently learned about these, not even a few months ago. Definitely, something that's on the "next purchase" list:icon_thumright:
 
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I may be out of the loop a little bit. I stopped hanging out on photo forums for quite a few years, thus, I'm not fully up to date on some things. Reverse ND grads being one of those things. I had only recently learned about these, not even a few months ago. Definitely, something that's on the "next purchase" list:icon_thumright:

Yep, it's on my purchase list too :02.47-tranquillity:

You might be interested in a short reverse GND review made by Brendan van Son:
 
Reverse grad looks good for sunsets/sunrises.
 

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