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R6_Dude

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When shooting somebody blowing out a birthday cake candle, should I shoot in Av or Tv (shutter priority). I took a couple last week in burst mode and 1 out of 7 or 8 came out looking decent.

Is the general rule for anything having movement to shoot in Tv?
 
I would shoot it in (manual) but AV because you are shooting a portrait, but have you got a fast lens,
 
I would shoot it in (manual) but AV because you are shooting a portrait, but have you got a fast lens,

That was probably the problem I was shooting with my kit lens at f3.5. If I had my 50mm f1.8 it probably would have came out better right?
 
Bump up your ISO if you need to, but i would go AV and set your aperture to 3.5. Your 50mm is a much faster lens, so i would use that if your lighting is low.
 
Yeah, what they said! :D Use your 50mm instead of your kit lens in low light conditions. If your stuck with your kit lens only, bump up the iso and balance clarity with the noise produced.
 
Is the general rule for anything having movement to shoot in Tv?
A lot, obvious depends on what you want to get...
Some recommendations that are out there are for portraits, landscapes and producs to use Aperture Priority and for action sports shutter priority.
Personally, I shoot manual but on rare occasion when need shallow dof and don't want to think and calculate exposure will switch to aperture.
 
When shooting somebody blowing out a birthday cake candle, should I shoot in Av or Tv (shutter priority).
What's your end goal? Are you wanting to see motion in the flame? Are you wanting to freeze the action?
 
When shooting somebody blowing out a birthday cake candle, should I shoot in Av or Tv (shutter priority).
What's your end goal? Are you wanting to see motion in the flame? Are you wanting to freeze the action?

Freeze of action. For those that would shoot in M, what would you set your shutter/apperture too in a low light setting?
 
What body do you have again? I know when I bumped up the ISO on my XTI it was as noisy as a freight train however my 1/5 D's are very smooth so there are a lot of factors... and what lens? I would use the Fitty in this case...
 
A good question was in regards to your intention with the shot.

IF you goal is to stop action, then you'll want to be in control of what stops action, and that would be your shutter. If you are comfortable with Manual, I would shoot it that way, it will keep your shots consistent within the same lighting.
If you shoot Tv, you may have a slight difference in your photos as your camera adjusts per changing lighting and scenes. This can throw off your intended exposure a bit.

So, pick a motion stopping shutter speed:
(from my thread in my sig)
Shutter speeds and what they do:
1/4000 to 1/2000.......... Stop a Hummingbirds wings
1/1000 to 1/500............ Freeze a human running and most athletes
1/250 to 1/60............... Stop most daily movement and handheld blur safe
1/30 to 1/8.................. Blur motion (camera should be on a tripod)
1/2 to long time............ Dark scenes, night time, etc (tripod only)

Once you have your shutter, you need to set up everything around it. You can keep your iso relatively low to minimize noise and then open your aperture up (shallow DOF might be not wanted though) or you can turn it up and keep a good aperture (maybe f/8).
It's all up to what you want your shot to look like. I would agree your 50mm would be most useful if you don't mind shooting at f/1.8.
 
Best advice is to practice before the event. Try to simulate the lighting conditions at the shoot.

If you want to freeze the action in low light, you'll likely need to add light. Since you don't mention it, I'm gonna assume you only have the built-in flash. Most people (myself included) will advise to not use it. The caution for that is when it's used straight on. It sucks and can kill a photo if not controlled.

Here's a suggestion. First off, you'll want to get a VAL (voice activated light) :lol: , get someone to assist you. Pop up the flash and put a bounce in front of it. You can use just about anything.... a white business card, folded aluminum foil, a CD case. Have your assistant use a reflector to direct the bounced light onto the subject. The reflector can be anything as well... a white piece of foam core, white poster board, a piece of notebook paper. For a more contrasty light, use something that will reflect more such as a large baking sheet, your car's sunshade, or a mirror. The larger your reflector, the more it will fill the scene. Also, the larger the light source, the softer the light. So if you want to concentrate the light for a child blowing out the candle, you could use a smaller reflector and the background will be darker.

For S&G, play around with having the reflector in different positions and angles to create depth in the image by introducing directed shadows. Good luck.
 
Birthday cake candle shots...kind of depends..the "safest" way to shoot them is with very subtle bounce flash in a manual exposure mode. Why? Well, in many TTL systems, the candle flames are read by the exposure systems as being point-source lights, often 12 to 16 stops brighter than the background, which is a very tough exposure calculation; "some" cameras will at "some" focal lengths interpret this candles as too small to be of significance, and will slow the exposure down quite a bit at indoor light levels. In Av mode, at f/5.6, if the room is dim, the camera could easily decide to slow the exposure at ISO 400 down to as slow as 1/2 second.

If the shot is framed tightly, and the candles are pretty bright, "some" exposure systems will evaluate that scene as being a bright-light scene, and in Av mode will give a very,very fast shutter speed, and will drastically under-expose the background parts of the scene. After all, a cluster of 15 candles in a tight circle in a small frame area is pretty bright. So, if the Av or Aperture Value you pick is f/5.6, the candles-lighted shot on a teenager's birthday cake could be 1/60 second at ISO 400, which will be fine, until the candles blow out....then the exposure will change dramatically.

So, yeah....birthday cake candles....I came by the above information talking to a fellow who used to run a small photo processing store. he and I talked for maybe 20 minutes about how people's pictures came out in birthday cake situations. he used to see entire rolls, coming out of the processor,and al;so dealt with a LOT of reprint and enlargement orders on shots that were critcially important to his customers, but which needed serious re-print exposure corrections. He told me you could see what happened with a lot of automatic metering scenarios,across all brands of cameras--exposures were sometimes all over the place, depending on the "weight" the candles were assigned, OR things were basically good with the candles lighted, but as soon as they were blown out, the exposures would tend toward dark and under-exposed OR alternately, very yellowish and over-exposed with a long exposure + flash pop with a ghost image and blurs. All in all, not a very good batting percentage for auto-exposure systems and Av or Tv mode.

I asked him what the BEST way was to shoot birthday cake candle situations,and he told me: manual exposure, manual flash, elevated ISO so the camera can keep up with the flash. Flash at kind of a lower power setting. This gave a balanced, overall look where the before shots looked good, and the candles looked lit but the area around was also lighted by the flash, and when the candles were blown out, the flash was still providing the basic "baseline exposure". In other words, this situation used to be a make-or-break with a film camera.

Like Kundalini says, a bit of practice makes sense. My suggestion is similar: bounced flash or off-camera flash, sufficient to provide a good, solid exposure that looks natural. Controlled by setting the camera to Manual mode, picking a decent shutter speed and f/stop, setting that speed, and then setting the flash power to a repeatable output level. Keep everything the same, so that the "test" pictures look good. Have 'em light the candles, and start shooting. Make sure the batteries are fresh,and at close distances, the flash recycle time ought to keep up with the firing rate of the camera for the first 3 or 4 frame, no problem, especially if you set the ISO to 400 or so.

In all honesty, shooting ANYTHING with flash in Tv mode is very,very risky--you never know what you will get, and flash pictures and Tv (time Value or as Nikon and Pentax call it, SHutter SPeed Priority) is typically very,very un-desirable as a general rule. Similarly, shooting flash pictures in A or Av mode is also kind of risky---the camera will pick the shutter speed, and it will often go with a very slow shutter speed indoors, like 1/15 to 1/6 second, leading to ugly,blurred images on the parts that are not lighted by the flash. Flash is one of the best places to set the camera up in M mode. It truly is.
 
Best advice is to practice before the event. Try to simulate the lighting conditions at the shoot.

If you want to freeze the action in low light, you'll likely need to add light. Since you don't mention it, I'm gonna assume you only have the built-in flash. Most people (myself included) will advise to not use it. The caution for that is when it's used straight on. It sucks and can kill a photo if not controlled.

Here's a suggestion. First off, you'll want to get a VAL (voice activated light) :lol: , get someone to assist you. Pop up the flash and put a bounce in front of it. You can use just about anything.... a white business card, folded aluminum foil, a CD case. Have your assistant use a reflector to direct the bounced light onto the subject. The reflector can be anything as well... a white piece of foam core, white poster board, a piece of notebook paper. For a more contrasty light, use something that will reflect more such as a large baking sheet, your car's sunshade, or a mirror. The larger your reflector, the more it will fill the scene. Also, the larger the light source, the softer the light. So if you want to concentrate the light for a child blowing out the candle, you could use a smaller reflector and the background will be darker.

For S&G, play around with having the reflector in different positions and angles to create depth in the image by introducing directed shadows. Good luck.

I never tried this. I definitely wanted to do some playing around with the camera and taking test shots before the cake shot haha. I'm definitely going to try the VAL :lol:
 

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