recommendation for a film camera

OLott · Jan 4, 2009

i recommend the pentax k1000

GREAT learning camera.

or the Minolta SRT200/201

Rem · Jan 10, 2009

OLott said:
i recommend the pentax k1000

GREAT learning camera.

or the Minolta SRT200/201

Another overlooked manual, Cosina C-1, which is very light even compared to an MX Pentax, takes K Mount, does 1/2000 but otherwise is like a light,ergonomic K-1000 (and probably less $ if you fnd one

Pentax MX, maybe one of the most classic all manuals,hard to find one cheap as they are just that sweet. Cinon made great K mount bodies. Like my CR-5s

Minolta X 370, I've got several off ebay I sell locally. Real nice aperture priority but there's no compromise using it manual. Minolta MD lenses are good and sell cheap. The X370n is the later version, same layout but replaced metal with plastic.

My "main" in a Pentax ZX-5 it's AF, but can do full manual, has the old school shutter speed dial. Has SPOT meter...very important to me. Love the built in TTL flash---but usually a ZX-5 has a chronic "issue" in that the flash won't stay up on it's own. Big deal. It's a "flaw" so on ebay you can get a ZX-5 about 30% cheaper than it should be. Hold the flash up with a spare finger-and it's fine. I use my K Mount Tamron SP 35-80 a lot...rarely mess with the regular AF lens. I like Aperture priority + Manual and the SP Tammy is great for Macro and way faster too.

With Pentax....you can later Add a K10 DSLR or the awesome K 20...and use all the same lenses.

You can take any Pentax (or K-mount) body and with an adapter use any SCREW mount...with full infinity focus. Even Pentax DIGITAL SLRs do that well, and in the interest of compatibility...the Pentax DSLRs put the "shake reduction" in the BODY, so my 1980 vintage tamrons or on adapter, my screw mount macro bellows...get shake reduction. That means I can get a $40 lens that's = to what,in an EF Canon costs $300

I HAVE at the moment,assorted Canons, Nikons, Minoltas but began with screw mount and screw mt and Pentax Bayonet mount is the "family" that works for me.

Another Pentax to look for...the P3. The P3 does AP/Prog, but ALSO does real nice manual. P3's are a great buy on ebay as it's under-appreciated.
another film Pentax..the SF-1. a bit big,a nice semi-pro touch isd that it has diopter correct built in-like the ZX5. The Veiwfinder seems unusually big + bright. Lots of built in features that can confuse a beginner.

What taught me? Mamiya Sekor DTL 1000, a camera I still love. My original, I got used in 1978 and it NEVER failed. I have another with a ding on top that looks like it got smacked VERY hard...it works great. They are heavy but can be used as a hockey puck,and still shoot. Screw mt, center needle, spot + avg meter. The single 76 type battery lasts as much as 3 years. i learned a LOT from doing macro shots of flowers. You get time to compose, to consider the light, depth of field,color.

Screw mt, M42 Macro tubes and bellows are cheap and easy to get, easy to use. You can get SERIOUSLY into macro for less than the cost of a digital point+shoot (and the Mamiya won't die in a year or want fresh batts in a week)

I was into "available light" wanted pics of musicians on stage. I can change lenses on a screw mt in a crowd-in the dark. There's no little red dot to align. Center needle meter? Spot meter...VERY handy if the light is low.
I got some special shots with my Sigma 135 f 1.8 and that spot metering Mamiya.

I have a F3 Nikon. That's the camera a LOT of Pro's used. I'd trust my old Mamiya more.

I have an AE-1 Program and it's a damn nice unit but a lot of the A Canons did get the "mirror squeal" often attributed to the shutter.
The original lubricant was wrong, and unless the body had low use (like mu A-1 and AE-2 P ...that noise...and eventual repair is probable. That said....I'd also pay a bit more to get an A-1 rather than an AE-1. The ebay prices are not that far apart.

Cameras not mentioned Olympus OM 2 or OM -PC. The OM-PC most of the good stuff of the OM-2 and a few good extras. A special plus is they both do great OTF flash metering,if you have a dedicated flash. I picked up a T 20 for about $10 + ship. That lets you also use another bounce on a slave and get some rather hi-tech flash technique EASY. Oly's T32 is even nicer. The OM-PC is not as well known as the OM-2 and often goes at a bargain. HOWEVER...again....OLY changed mounts when they went digital.

STARTER.....I'm all for Pentax.....or more specific..the K mount family. You can start off with a Pentax like a K-1000,P3,MX or a Chinon, Ricoh,Cosina...add an (autofocus/autowind/autoflash) SF-1 or a ZX5N,then a K 10 -K20.

I like Pentax glass but also really dig Tamron, especially their deluxe SP glass. The Early Vivitar Series one, did not have the advantage of adaptall, but were fine glass. The Kino, Tokina and Komone made Ser 1's were way sweet. The Komine's were best,but the Kino/Kiron's which have an sn starting with 22 are quite nice and far more common.

Pentax made great lenses. The SMC Takumar screw mounts....30+ years old, are popular with digital photographers.

bored · Jan 10, 2009

thanks for all the info people. i really really appreciate it. i ended up finding a canon ae-1 on craiglist with 50mm 1.4 and a rokinon 80-200mm 4.5-5.6 lenses for $45. i couldn't pass that offer after seeing how ae-1 with 50mm lens for $70ish on ebay. i tested the camera and everything works fine but the light meter is broken. it keeps saying overexpose in all lgiht settings and different setting. i'll probably get it fix before giving it to my nephew.

Battou · Jan 10, 2009

steez said:
could be the battery?

No.

An AE-1 will not release the shutter with out the battery.

Additionally shot meters are common.

bored · Jan 14, 2009

ouch got an estimate for the repair of the exposure meter and it was $65. haha that's $20 more than i paid for the camera. i guess he has to learn without it.

A louie · Jan 14, 2009

I am very pleased with my Minolta x-700!

potownrob · Jan 14, 2009

bored said:
ouch got an estimate for the repair of the exposure meter and it was $65. haha that's $20 more than i paid for the camera. i guess he has to learn without it.

talk about learning the hard way :thumbdown:. i was going to recommend an F3, but the FE is good too (if it's working that is). the fg is nice too, and more compact and lightweight (which can be both good and bad).

Battou · Jan 15, 2009

bored said:
ouch got an estimate for the repair of the exposure meter and it was $65. haha that's $20 more than i paid for the camera. i guess he has to learn without it.

The cable is likely snapped or snagged....sux but those two lenses you got with it are worth what you paid for it, I would actually suggest looking around E-bay for another body. I've seen bodies go for around twenty on a few occations. Learning without a meter is not a good thing at all, he'll likely get dissapointed and walk away from photography.

bored · Jan 15, 2009

Battou said:
The cable is likely snapped or snagged....sux but those two lenses you got with it are worth what you paid for it, I would actually suggest looking around E-bay for another body. I've seen bodies go for around twenty on a few occations. Learning without a meter is not a good thing at all, he'll likely get dissapointed and walk away from photography.

yea it be hard to learn without it. i'm sure i can find a cheap body on ebay or craiglist. just lately i haven't had time to look. hmm i wonder if it's easy to replace the cable. maybe i'll open it up and give it a look.

Battou · Jan 15, 2009

bored said:
yea it be hard to learn without it. i'm sure i can find a cheap body on ebay or craiglist. just lately i haven't had time to look. hmm i wonder if it's easy to replace the cable. maybe i'll open it up and give it a look.

No it's not, chances are that even if you get the cable in place the meter will not be accurate, I have this issue with my AE-1. A mistake I made when replacing the eyepeice the cable came unwound and despite rewinding it, the meter does not read, it just sits at the bottom of the viewfinder.

Rem · Jan 20, 2009

Oops. On Craigs you pay a bit more but get to SEE-TOUCH-TEST. I Sell gear on Craigs,some of it what I bought on ebay. A BUSTED camera....is often more $ to fix than to replace. I just got a pair of ME Supers, winder, 4 lenses (ebay) and to my dismay the one Camera had a dead shutter-and the auto winder wasn't working. However..lucky me...a lens badly described turns out to be the Pentax 100 mm Macro..and it's worth more than I spent on everything.

The Lenses you got are worth pretty close to 45.00 Look for an AE-1 PROGRAM on ebay for under $30 - body only, with some claim it works.

When I sell on Craigs..it's face to face and if it's not A-ok...I'm honest about any "issues" I'm selling a deluxe set based on a Canon A-1 that's virgin mint, winder, lenses, macro tubes. I got a dead A-1...and it's included just as a Parts.

Me? I began with screw mount and Pentax K mount was the logical step as I could share lenses. Now....Pentax DSLRs use K mount compatible lenses, have the anti-shake in the body. That means a 1975, a 1985, a 1995, and a new Pentax lens...all can work on a Pentax DSLR.

Pentax did MANY nice cameras. I rather like the P3, the SF-1 and the ZX-5. EVERYONE loves the MX. The ME-Super is rather classic although I prefer a shutter speed dial-which is why functionally, the P3 is real nice...and why ther ZX-5 iws a great AF body.

The K 1000 is a legend...basically from being so damn spartan it's got few things that can fail. Now..it's onr time advantage..low price..is no more. I can get a P3 at a few $ less and it's just better.

With Minolta, the X 370 is plentiful and low $ and durable.The XG-7 and XG-m are similar, functionally with a bit different design and layout. It also does manual very well. Minolta, like Canon, TOTALLY changed mounts when going from Man focus to AF.
Due to that you can get bargains...but I don't think you save enough.

Chinon's use the same PK mount as Pentax and Chinon made some splendid cameras.