Seeking TLR and light meter advice

[JerrfyLube]

Here's a few off my first roll through the new Rollei. All shot on Delta 400, cooked in D76 and printed on Ilford MGIV matte paper.

Quite pleased for the first roll.

 

[The Barbarian]

Yashicamats and Rolleiflexs are notoriously bad about jamming up, and once they do, it's pretty much the end for them.

Or you can squirt a bit of lighter fluid into the shutter, and work it a while. I've "repaired" several TLRs that way.

 

[Horngreen]

I have a sekonic like the guy in this blog has 35 Years and Counting - Sekonic Blog. I got it for $5 about 20 years back because it didn't work. Two years ago I sent it to this place which doesn't even have a real website. Quality Light Metric Co - Los Angeles, CA, 90028 - Citysearch The guy on the phone mentioned it might be better to just buy a new one which was cool but I had it fixed for $80 and it's dead on. Do make sure it has the HIGH slide though or you'll never get a reading in the sun!
I also have a pretty beat up Rolleicord which doesn't look too good but works well and is cheaper than the Rolleiflex.

 

[djacobox372]

Your fm2 is a decent hand held spot meter....

 

[JerrfyLube]

Your fm2 is a decent hand held spot meter....

As I quickly discovered. :mrgreen: The above shots were metered with the FM2 and then I just dialed them in loosely on the Rollei. It's close enough for what I'm trying to do and actually works rather well.

Then dummy me forgot that I had 400 film in the FM2 and didn't change the ISO dial back and exposed half the roll at 125; the speed of the film that was in the Rollei.... Definitely going to be an 'experimental' roll when it comes time to develop/print it.

 

[The Barbarian]

If you really want to be retro, you might want to try using a GE DW-68. Never saw one that didn't work. Very rugged and it comes with some features allowing incident light reading, and there's a very usable exposure dial.