Shooting Portraits @f2.8 Question

[Bgagnon127]

Hi All,
So I recently have been shooting portraits in my home studio and I have a Nikon 60mm f2.8 lens which I love! However when I'm in the studio shooting with flash I've run into an issue where even when my flash units are at their lowest settings it's too bright to shoot at f2.8. My ISO is as low as my D90 goes, which is ISO 200. My shutter is at 200 (which I undertsand doesn't really matter with flash photography anyway. My aperture is at 2.8 to get nice shallow depth of field. What ends up happening is that I'm way over exposed and my incident light meter is reading I need more like f5.6 to get a proper exposure.

I can't turn the lights down any more, I can't move them farther away (and don't want to so I keep the soft look). What are my options at this point? Here are some recent photo's that were not shot at f2.8 because I couldn't get the right exposure. Thanks for any help

Sorry, WB is off on this one...

 

[SCraig]

Neutral density filter might help. I think they go up to 9 stops or so. And my D90 will go one full stop below ISO 200 to 100 (it shows L1.0). You can also turn the flash compensation down. I think it goes to -3 EV or so.

 

[cgipson1]

you could try an ND filter... but I find it odd that you can't turn the power down on your flashes more.

What are you using for flashes? what Diffusers? What kind of distance flash to subject do you have? Diagram it here if you can......

http://www.lightingdiagrams.com/Creator

have you tried diffusing your diffusers.... you can control light output that way also, and it softens the light even more....

 

[willis_927]

Why do you want to do indoor portraits at 2.8 anyways? You will likely be better shooting at 5.6 or so to ensure you are getting enough DOF to keep the entire face and both eyes sharp. Also most lenses are sharp when they are not wide open. (or so I hear).

 

[willis_927]

You might even want to go down around F8 or even smaller.

 

[tirediron]

Why do you want to do indoor portraits at 2.8 anyways? You will likely be better shooting at 5.6 or so to ensure you are getting enough DOF to keep the entire face and both eyes sharp. Also most lenses are sharp when they are not wide open. (or so I hear).

This! ^^ Looking at the iamges, they're nicely shot, but I don't see any which would be the poorer for having been shot at f5.6 - 8.

 

[Bgagnon127]

Neutral density filter might help. I think they go up to 9 stops or so. And my D90 will go one full stop below ISO 200 to 100 (it shows L1.0). You can also turn the flash compensation down. I think it goes to -3 EV or so.

you could try an ND filter... but I find it odd that you can't turn the power down on your flashes more.

What are you using for flashes? what Diffusers? What kind of distance flash to subject do you have? Diagram it here if you can......

http://www.lightingdiagrams.com/Creator

have you tried diffusing your diffusers.... you can control light output that way also, and it softens the light even more....

Why do you want to do indoor portraits at 2.8 anyways? You will likely be better shooting at 5.6 or so to ensure you are getting enough DOF to keep the entire face and both eyes sharp. Also most lenses are sharp when they are not wide open. (or so I hear).

This! ^^ Looking at the iamges, they're nicely shot, but I don't see any which would be the poorer for having been shot at f5.6 - 8.

I'm trying to find the best combo to get enough DOF but ensure my backgrounds are OOF. My studio is kind of small so I can't really pull the subject much farther from the background as OOF as I would like sometimes. I built the diagram to show generally what my setup is. If each square represents a foot then the diagram is close to accurate. Thanks for the replies.

 

[2WheelPhoto]

I'm confused, why are you shooting at 2.8 when you're blowing the background out or using a smeared backdrop anyway? Plus if you're close enough to the subject in the studio (using other than wide angle lenses) you'll get the DOF anyway using f5.6 and such. As least we do in our studio lighting class.

 

[cgipson1]

What softboxes are you using? On the overexposure at large apertures, try getting some more of the same diffusing material that is used on the boxes.. and add a layer to the existing layer... or even better, a inch or so away from the existing layer (add it inside). That should drop the light a stop or two... maybe more. It would also "soften" the light even more.. and allow you to put them closer to subject if needed.

 

[Bgagnon127]

Hi 2wheelphoto,
You're right with the background blown out it's a non issue. It's more when I'm shooting a larger family shot and I have to either back farther away from them or choose a wider lens. I have found that sometimes the back isn't OOF enough for my taste. You guys are also right that 2.8 may not give me enough DOF to keep all people in the shot clear, so maybe something more like 5.6 is in order. Anyone know a good DOF calculator on-line?

Thanks,
Brian

I'm confused, why are you shooting at 2.8 when you're blowing the background out or using a smeared backdrop anyway? Plus if you're close enough to the subject in the studio (using other than wide angle lenses) you'll get the DOF anyway using f5.6 and such. As least we do in our studio lighting class.

 

[Bgagnon127]

Good suggestion, How would you attach the diffusion material inside of the softbox and keep it away from the other inner diffuser? Gaffers tape?

 

[Alpha]

Try shooting film. Goes below 200.

 

[katerolla]

if thats out of reach try ND filter

 

[cgipson1]

Good suggestion, How would you attach the diffusion material inside of the softbox and keep it away from the other inner diffuser? Gaffers tape?

I don't know.. it would depend on the boxes you have... velcro, maybe. Gaffers tape would not be a long term fix. Build a light frame of either PVC or brick moulding... that would fit inside against the existing material.... or something. Get creative!

DOF link

Online Depth of Field Calculator

 

[dots]

Add a CPL. Will take off at least a stop.