Studio lighting

[pjay]

Hello, everyone.
My 3rd question to you awesome people!
I've been surfing the net for some time now and looking for a flash unit to buy. My budget is around 750$. And there are some things I can't get straight.. Is it better to invest in one good flash unit (of course a stand and a soft box) and a reflector or am I better of buying one of those kits? For example: FOMEI BASIC 400 (or what ever). As a lot of people recommend paul c buff stuff it's not an option for me, because it's almost impossible to get them in Europe. Also, could you guys recommend me a spacific flash unit(s) that would work for me?
P.S. What are the most important aspects I should keep my eyes on while choosing a strobe?
Thank you soooooo much! :hail:

 

[Designer]

1. Probably the most relevant thing to consider is the power. How much power are they rated at? You don't want to pay for a huge light, getting only one, and find that you don't use full power hardly ever, meanwhile wanting a second and third light.

2. Brand quality and/or adaptability for modifiers, etc.
3. Getting a good brand such as Elinchrom, Broncolor, Bronson, or Profoto will assure you many years of reliable service, and high interchangeability with regard to modifiers, etc., but they cost more than others.

 

[Derrel]

I think that for most people who want to learn how to do studio portrait lighting or tabletop close-up and still-life photography that 150 Watt-second lights are plenty of power. With ISO 100 and 200 being so good these days, there's not a lot of need for more than 150 Watt-seconds, for most people. I would look at buying two, or three lower-tier lights, something in say the Elinchrom family. Maybe the Genesis monolights.
I would rather have THREE, 150 Watt-second lights than one,expensive 750 Watt-second monolight.

 

[tirediron]

The two most important aspects are: What is your budget (which we know) and what are you going to do use the lighting for? There are two basic 'flavours' of studio lighting. Monolights such as the Paul C Buff gear, or pack & head systems (Speedotron, Dynalite). If you're going to be using them primarily or exclusively in a studio situation, then you will get a LOT more light for your dollar with a pack & head system. IMO, the most important aspects of a lighting system are: Build quality, availability of spares & accessories, and value. I use a Speedotron Brownline system both in-studio and on location. It's light, solid, and outstanding value for the money. Four lights, stands, modifiers, etc cost me less than $1000 CDN (used off of eBay) to my door. There are dealers for both Speedotron and Dynalite all over mainland Europe.

 

[Derrel]

I JUST found this web site. It has some European stuff, as well as American/North American market products. Portable power guide | Lighting Rumours

You asked , "What are the most important aspects I should keep my eyes on while choosing a strobe?"

Well, a few aspects to consider: AC wall power AKA "Mains powered" or DC battery-powered, or combination AC/DC options? There are all three types available these days. See the site above!!!!

Proper voltage for YOUR region? Monolight, or pack-and-head system? 1)Bargain; 2)Low-level; 3)intermediate grade; 4)high-end; 5)LUXURY level pricing.

The "mount", meaning the reflector attachment mounting method is what separates the brands. As I understand it, in much of the EU and the UK, the Elinchrom mount or "fit" is a popular one. Studio flash units each have a specific lug or locking mechanism that keeps reflectors, and softboxes, and other accessory light-shapers locked on to the body of the light.

The Genesis monolights I mentioned are a class 2) low-level light, which is what I think you ought to buy THREE of. They use the Elinchrom mounting system, since you are in Europe.

 

[Lighcatcher]

Few options to consider:

- brand for quality and post sale support
- availability of diffusers and speed ring computability
- ability to control power output (cheap lights go down to 1/16 power only, good one allow 1/32 or 1/64 power adjustment). There is no easy way to reduce power with GD filters
- ability to support external battery source (some cheap lights have AC power only and no battery pack option)

Cheers