Trees Comparison

[jake337]

I have the app and the Android Asus Transformer Pad. It works with the Nikon and Canon with an extra feature for the Canon. It will take up to 15 bracketed exposures. Only problem I see is it will only save as Jpeg and only to the tablet. Its slower than mole asses in January. I can see the app useful for focus stacking which isnt time dependent.

Oh, I didn't know it would only save as jpeg. Damn!

 

[DGMPhotography]

Don't worry about what other people think you should do. If you want to do something, do it. Pay attention to those who try to help, and not to those who try to dissuade you.

People learn differently. I suspect you're the type of person who learns best by actually doing as opposed to sitting in front of a computer and reading page after page of stuff until your eyes glaze over. That works for some people, but I think most people learn by actually getting out there and hitting the shutter.

Oh, and I give you about a week before that Photomatix watermark drives you nuts!

Steve, you're the freaking man. That's the same point I've tried to make to Bynx. Some people just learn differently And yes, that watermark already annoys me..

 

[DGMPhotography]

side note, I really wish there was a way you could create a hybrid bracket method, where your camera would first start by adjusting the shutter speed, but then when it got to some predetermined level, it would begin bracketing with ISO, and do this automatically. This would be nice for shooting quickly moving clouds, where the end exposures end up being long to the point of losing definition in the moving clouds.

Of course you can do it manually, but sometimes the delay is such that you get a lot of ghosting in the clouds if you do HDR, because it took you too long to change both shutter speed and ISO and the clouds moved in between shots too much.

That would be interesting! They'll probably have it eventually.

 

[DGMPhotography]

side note, I really wish there was a way you could create a hybrid bracket method, where your camera would first start by adjusting the shutter speed, but then when it got to some predetermined level, it would begin bracketing with ISO, and do this automatically. This would be nice for shooting quickly moving clouds, where the end exposures end up being long to the point of losing definition in the moving clouds.

Of course you can do it manually, but sometimes the delay is such that you get a lot of ghosting in the clouds if you do HDR, because it took you too long to change both shutter speed and ISO and the clouds moved in between shots too much.

If you have an android tablet you could also download an app to control your camera tethered. I'm not sure if they have it working for nikon yet but you can set up a 45 shot bracket. I'm also not sure how fast it will take the exposures.

tethered shooting from a smart phone ! - Open Photography Forums

That's pretty neat!

 

[fjrabon]

side note, I really wish there was a way you could create a hybrid bracket method, where your camera would first start by adjusting the shutter speed, but then when it got to some predetermined level, it would begin bracketing with ISO, and do this automatically. This would be nice for shooting quickly moving clouds, where the end exposures end up being long to the point of losing definition in the moving clouds.

Of course you can do it manually, but sometimes the delay is such that you get a lot of ghosting in the clouds if you do HDR, because it took you too long to change both shutter speed and ISO and the clouds moved in between shots too much.

That would be interesting! They'll probably have it eventually.

I doubt it, because it would probably be too confusing for most amateurs to actually use, and I don't really see it as something most pros would want. They could easily do it today, and just don't, because likely nobody really wants it except a few (like me) and even for those few it wouldn't be a big enough deal to really make or break a choice to buy or not buy a new body.

 

[Majeed Badizadegan]

Whattt!??!?! How do you install software to your camera???? And alas, unfortunately, I don't have an unmodified image... I took the image in monochrome :/

Your camera processes every image it takes if it's a JPEG.

And since it was in b&w it was assumed that you did it in PP

I know that But no, you shouldn't make assumptions! Ha, but in all honesty, I SHOULD have taken it in color, I was just experimenting with my camera's different functions.

No one assumes that a black and white picture was shot in "monochrome JPEG" in camera, so it is pretty much a given on a photography forum that conversions are done in post one way or another. Shooting monochrome is pretty much the worst thing you can do, when there's unlimited software out there to make the perfect black and white out of each of your color photos.

If you look at both of these images, which one is better to you? The one that looks like some sort of neon lights are glowing from the trees with a blue sky, or the calm silhouettes of the trees against a neutral sky? Let's not forget the photograph aspect of all this. I know this wasn't your question, but the black and white is far better than your edit.

A lot of your questions have been explained in detail here. But as Bynx and others have said, don't put the cart before the horse. Learn the basics of the exposure triangle, get comfortable with that, then look to advance into specialty fields like this.

 

[DGMPhotography]

Your camera processes every image it takes if it's a JPEG.

And since it was in b&w it was assumed that you did it in PP

I know that But no, you shouldn't make assumptions! Ha, but in all honesty, I SHOULD have taken it in color, I was just experimenting with my camera's different functions.

No one assumes that a black and white picture was shot in "monochrome JPEG" in camera, so it is pretty much a given on a photography forum that conversions are done in post one way or another. Shooting monochrome is pretty much the worst thing you can do, when there's unlimited software out there to make the perfect black and white out of each of your color photos.

If you look at both of these images, which one is better to you? The one that looks like some sort of neon lights are glowing from the trees with a blue sky, or the calm silhouettes of the trees against a neutral sky? Let's not forget the photograph aspect of all this. I know this wasn't your question, but the black and white is far better than your edit.

A lot of your questions have been explained in detail here. But as Bynx and others have said, don't put the cart before the horse. Learn the basics of the exposure triangle, get comfortable with that, then look to advance into specialty fields like this.

Well thank you for your input. This was like a watered down Bynx comment, which I like.

 

[DGMPhotography]

Your camera processes every image it takes if it's a JPEG.

And since it was in b&w it was assumed that you did it in PP

I know that But no, you shouldn't make assumptions! Ha, but in all honesty, I SHOULD have taken it in color, I was just experimenting with my camera's different functions.

No one assumes that a black and white picture was shot in "monochrome JPEG" in camera, so it is pretty much a given on a photography forum that conversions are done in post one way or another. Shooting monochrome is pretty much the worst thing you can do, when there's unlimited software out there to make the perfect black and white out of each of your color photos.

If you look at both of these images, which one is better to you? The one that looks like some sort of neon lights are glowing from the trees with a blue sky, or the calm silhouettes of the trees against a neutral sky? Let's not forget the photograph aspect of all this. I know this wasn't your question, but the black and white is far better than your edit.

A lot of your questions have been explained in detail here. But as Bynx and others have said, don't put the cart before the horse. Learn the basics of the exposure triangle, get comfortable with that, then look to advance into specialty fields like this.

And I never actually asked which is better...

 

[Majeed Badizadegan]

I know that But no, you shouldn't make assumptions! Ha, but in all honesty, I SHOULD have taken it in color, I was just experimenting with my camera's different functions.

No one assumes that a black and white picture was shot in "monochrome JPEG" in camera, so it is pretty much a given on a photography forum that conversions are done in post one way or another. Shooting monochrome is pretty much the worst thing you can do, when there's unlimited software out there to make the perfect black and white out of each of your color photos.

If you look at both of these images, which one is better to you? The one that looks like some sort of neon lights are glowing from the trees with a blue sky, or the calm silhouettes of the trees against a neutral sky? Let's not forget the photograph aspect of all this. I know this wasn't your question, but the black and white is far better than your edit.

A lot of your questions have been explained in detail here. But as Bynx and others have said, don't put the cart before the horse. Learn the basics of the exposure triangle, get comfortable with that, then look to advance into specialty fields like this.

And I never actually asked which is better...

Yeah, I mentioned that.

 

[Bynx]

There is also an app called Magic Lantern. So far its only for Canon cameras. It might be what we are looking for in terms of machine gun firing the 7 or 9 or 11 shots saving them to the camera's SD card.

 

[zombiemann]

There is also an app called Magic Lantern. So far its only for Canon cameras. It might be what we are looking for in terms of machine gun firing the 7 or 9 or 11 shots saving them to the camera's SD card.

Actually I JUST installed that on my T2i a few days ago.. Unfortunately the installation also heralded the end of the 4 month drought be have been having here lol. It never fails, anytime I get something for my camera or telescope it rains or is extremely cloudy for several days. I did get to play with it a little the day I installed it and from what I saw it is pretty much exactly what you are talking about. It will take up to 9 frames "rapid fire" auto bracketing exposure. It also has an "auto detect" listed but I am not sure how/how well that functions.

 

[Bynx]

Good to hear. I hope they come out with a Nikon version.

 

[DGMPhotography]

No one assumes that a black and white picture was shot in "monochrome JPEG" in camera, so it is pretty much a given on a photography forum that conversions are done in post one way or another. Shooting monochrome is pretty much the worst thing you can do, when there's unlimited software out there to make the perfect black and white out of each of your color photos.

If you look at both of these images, which one is better to you? The one that looks like some sort of neon lights are glowing from the trees with a blue sky, or the calm silhouettes of the trees against a neutral sky? Let's not forget the photograph aspect of all this. I know this wasn't your question, but the black and white is far better than your edit.

A lot of your questions have been explained in detail here. But as Bynx and others have said, don't put the cart before the horse. Learn the basics of the exposure triangle, get comfortable with that, then look to advance into specialty fields like this.

And I never actually asked which is better...

Yeah, I mentioned that.

Sorry, my bad, I thought you were referring to something else.