Used Hasselblad price?

eric-s.

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Hi all,

I've been trolling around here for a couple of months and really enjoy the site.
My question is; my in-laws neighbor, a real eccentric fellow has a complete Hasselblad kit from the late 60's to early 70's that he's looking to sell. And I'm thinking about getting it. The problem is neither one of us know what a "fare" price for the equipment is. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Here's the equipment list:
Hasselblad C/M body w/standard prism
Two 12 exposure and one 16 exposure magazine
Carl Zeiss 1:4 F4 Distagon Lens 50mm
Carl Zeiss 1:2.8 F 80mm Planner lens
Carl Zeiss Sonnar 1:4 F 150mm lens
Carl Zeiss Sonnar 1:5.6 F 250 mm lens
Hasselblad Extension bellows
Hasselblad Extension tubes 10, 21 and 55mm
Hasselblad light balance filters (set of 9)

My concern is the age of the lenses. Are 30+ year old lenses worth using, i.e. do newer have dramatically better optics?
Thanks,
Eric
 
Ebay would be a great place to search for fair prices. If the lenses are not scratched or have any fungi growing in them then the set up should be a MUST HAVE!!! Granted newer equipment will work better just because it's new but that doesn't mean the results you get from it will be any better. I have a Rolleiflex from the late forties that takes superb photos and it's just in okay shape. Try the camera first if you can and see for yourself since you know the guy. Then see if he has any photos he had taken and them compare to see if the camera is working right or has lost any quality. Good luck!
 
Optics don't get much better than those lenses.
Depending on condition...

The body goes for about 2-300$ these days
50mm goes for about $1k
80mm goes for about $3-400
150mm goes for $400
250mm goes for about $600
another $500 for the bellows
couple hundred for the tubes
couple hundred for the filters...
 
eric-s. said:
Here's the equipment list:
Hasselblad C/M body w/standard prism 300-500 USD in fine shape

Two 12 exposure and one 16 exposure magazine If it's a 12A, the two 12 exp. magazines could bring anywhere between 100-300 USD and the 16 exp. about the same, if it's the 6x4.5 (less if it's the 16S or the Super Slide)

Carl Zeiss 1:4 F4 Distagon Lens 50mm Anywhere between 300 and 800 USD, depending on the external and internal condition (glass being mint), less if glass has imperfections. Some will be more with better coatings.

Carl Zeiss 1:2.8 F 80mm Planner lens Between 200 and 600 USD, depending on the condition and the coating.

Carl Zeiss Sonnar 1:4 F 150mm lens Between 300 and 800 USD, depending on the condition and the coating.

Carl Zeiss Sonnar 1:5.6 F 250 mm lens Between 400 and 1200 USD, depending on the condition and coating.

Hasselblad Extension bellows You probably mean Pro Shade, the Extension bellows are used with the special lens 135mm, which you don't seem to have. A Pro shade could get you 300-600 USD.

Hasselblad Extension tubes 10, 21 and 55mm About 150-250 each.

Hasselblad light balance filters (set of 9) Depending on the make of the filter, original Hassy filters tend to be more.

My concern is the age of the lenses. Are 30+ year old lenses worth using, i.e. do newer have dramatically better optics?
Thanks,
Eric

Eric, the above numbers are, in my estimation, what one would pay for each piece of equipment, as observed on the E-bay and other Photographic equipment stores that deal with Hasselblad. I own a couple of bodies, a 500CM and a 500ELM, three lenses (50, 80, 250) and various accessories and I follow the prices quite often.

In regards to whether or not the 30+ years lenses are worth using, my answer is...

Yes! :D

The newer ones have the exact optics as the old ones, the difference being in the coating. T and F are newer coatings and do improve somewhat the optics, however, it is not a dramatic improvement, as many claim. For example, Ansel Adams shot his sand dunes picture using a Hassy with an old (was new at that time) 50mm f/4 Distagon, yet the results were astounding.

Don't be concerned by the age of your lenses, just take them to a qualified Hassy shop for a CLA and they'll be as good as new.

Post here if you have any more Hassy questions and I'll try to reply as fast as I can.

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks for all the responses. I'll get a chance to check out the camera next weekend. From what I've heard it's in very good condition. I'll keep you posted!

Thanks again,
Eric
 
eric-s. said:
Thanks for all the responses. I'll get a chance to check out the camera next weekend. From what I've heard it's in very good condition. I'll keep you posted!

Thanks again,
Eric

Sounds good! Put a BW film in the 500CM and put the 50mm Distagon on. Rule of thumb, be aware that both, the body of the camera and the lesn have to be cocked before either removing a lens from the body or putting another lens on. So, before replacing what you might have on the camera, wind up first and then replace the lens.

We wanna see some nice pics!~~~~ :lol:
 
I purchased "The Hasselblad Manual" by Wildi this weekend and plan on reading up on these cameras this week. I've heard that both the camera and lenses have shutters in them and changing lenses and film backs have to be done a certain way or you'll lose a frame. I hope the book covers this :shock: .....
 
eric-s. said:
I purchased "The Hasselblad Manual" by Wildi this weekend and plan on reading up on these cameras this week. I've heard that both the camera and lenses have shutters in them and changing lenses and film backs have to be done a certain way or you'll lose a frame. I hope the book covers this :shock: .....

Excellent book! Take your time in understanding the camera.

Yes, what you heard is correct. Both, camera and lens have shutters that synchronize upon firing the shutter. However, only the lens has the real shutter (exposing shutter) while the body of the camera has a 'generic' barn door shutter which will open (and send the mirror up) before the lens shutter opens. There is a button right under the winder which will enable you to raise the mirror and open the body shutter. In any case, if you accidentally remove the lens before winding up, you will need a special key to be able to cock the lens shutter and put it back on the camera's body. They go for about $30.00 on E-bay. Before changing film backs the only things to be aware of are: a) make sure the dark slide is in and b) make sure the camera/lens shutters are cocked. Only after that you can take the back off, knowing that if you put it back you'll just have to take the dark slide out and you're ready for an exposure (no winding necessary). So, as a rule of the thumb, cock/wind up everytime after you take a picture. I hope this makes sense. :lol:
 
Is this camera a 500 series model? All 500 require lenses with a leaf shutter; the 200 series cameras have a focal plane shutter in the camera body and use the lenses without a shutter and newer lenses with shutters are design to work with both bodies.
 
Jeff Canes said:
I'd love to have that 250mm

It's a great lens! I love mine! One of the sharpest for a tele lens.
 
Jeff Canes said:
If you go to Joshua Tree bring it, would like to try it out

Please :D

I would love to bring it if I could come. Perhaps I can call in sick?? :puke: :puke-rig: :eyebrows:
 

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