using diferent chemicals

manfromh

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Maybe this should have gone to that pinned development thread, but im not sure.

So...

Can I mix diferent brands of chemicals? Lets say I develop with Kodak developer and fix with Agfa fixer and use Ilford stopbath. Or do they have to be the same brand? And can i develop Ilford films in Kodak chemicals?

And are Forte, Tetanel and Slavich chemicals any good? Im new to this, and i dont have a lot of money, so im trying to get it cheaply.

Thanks
 
1. Yes, you can use different brands. Just be sure that you follow the instructions. The only problem that can occur is when you are choosing a developer. You must be able to find information on how long to develop your particular film in that developer.

2. I routinely develop Ilford Pan F in Kodak Microdol and Kodak fixer.

3. I cannot answer on the brands of chemicals you mentioned.
 
I routinely use different brands, too. Like Torus34 stated, it's more about using them correctly, for each will have different ratios and times for the various films you'll develop them in. The same goes for developing prints.

I can't answer on those products, either. There aren't a lot of Tetanol products available in the US, but from what I've read they have a great reputation.
 
Okay my 2cent (worth about .01 in todays market). I use a combination of d76 and d72 as a universal developer for film and paper. The stock solution is 50/50 it cuts the developement time of film in half. Slightly increases the paper development times.

I develop only large negatives so as best i can tell, the grain is no different at all. If you wish to try it just use it on something not to important first, it might be a bit constrasty for your taste.

Of the three types of chemicals I have never found any any real difference <except for the developer> one stop bath and fixer works as good as another. Some just smell worse i think.
 
I use Tetenal&#8217;s Neofin Blue but only for the old style Adox/Efke films. It comes in single shot miniatures bottles so it always fresh. Seem to do a good job. Along with Freestyle stop bath and kodak fixer
 
Photographic stop bath is usually cheaper, and of course the dilution is different. A bottle of 28% acetic acid is meant to dilute to approximately a 2% working stop bath. White distilled vinegar from the kitchen is at 5%.

For film developing I don't bother with it, anyway, I use running plain tap water for a few minutes, followed by a fixer with hardener.
 
Most of the time there is no problem using different brand chems, but there are exceptions. Always read the label and/or visit the manufacturer's website for more info.

For instance I use TF-4 fixer, which is an alkaline fixer. Most fixers are acid fixers. If you use acid stop bath with an alkaline fixer you'll exhaust the fixer very quickly. Also since hypo-clear and most fixer-washing chems are designed for acid fixers, it's just a waste of money to use them with TF-4.
 

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