Using Ortho film: Why is film continuous tone?

OK now you're just being difficult.
 
There is no good reason to suggest that the lab cannot develop this in an alternate developer. Indeed, they suggested they were capable of doing so. Further, the comparison to Tech Pan is correct only insofar as both films are slow and require special low contrast developers for ideal results. The similarities end there. Not only is TP not orthochromatic, but it's red sensitivity is greater than most pan films. It is easily possible to get good looking pictorial development out of a film like this using a different developer. Moreover, I would suggest that the only reason Rollei lists only their special developer on the package is because they manufacture it.

And how is your assessment realistic? How many ortho films have you shot?
 
There is no good reason to suggest that the lab cannot develop this in an alternate developer. Indeed, they suggested they were capable of doing so. Further, the comparison to Tech Pan is correct only insofar as both films are slow and require special low contrast developers for ideal results. The similarities end there. Not only is TP not orthochromatic, but it's red sensitivity is greater than most pan films. It is easily possible to get good looking pictorial development out of a film like this using a different developer. Moreover, I would suggest that the only reason Rollei lists only their special developer on the package is because they manufacture it.

And how is your assessment realistic? How many ortho films have you shot?

The 'ortho' property is not the issue, it's the contrast. I tried several rolls of Tech Pan with Technidol and found it difficult to work with at best.
 
Just to be clear. you've not shot and/or developed any orthochromatic film. Is that correct?
 
Just to be clear. you've not shot and/or developed any orthochromatic film. Is that correct?

Oh, yes I have. Sheet continuous- tone (Tri-X) and Kodalith. As I said, it's not the orthochromatic sensitivity that's the issue, not at all. It's the contrast. Ortho has nothing to do with it.
 
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Just to be clear. you've not shot and/or developed any orthochromatic film. Is that correct?

Oh, yes I have. Sheet continuous- tone (Tri-X) and Kodalith. As I said, it's not the orthochromatic sensitivity that's the issue, not at all. It's the contrast. Ortho has nothing to do with it.


I don't see what TX has to do with this. And Kodalith can be developed for pictorial uses in...wait for it...a dilute non litho developer.
 
Just to be clear. you've not shot and/or developed any orthochromatic film. Is that correct?

Oh, yes I have. Sheet continuous- tone (Tri-X) and Kodalith. As I said, it's not the orthochromatic sensitivity that's the issue, not at all. It's the contrast. Ortho has nothing to do with it.

I don't see what TX has to do with this. And Kodalith can be developed for pictorial uses in...wait for it...a dilute non litho developer.

Tri-X Ortho was a continuous-tone ortho film. You are still confusing orthochromatic sensitization (blue-to-yellow, insensitive to red) with litho (high contrast). They are two different things. Most litho films were orthochromatic for a number of reasons (but there were pan litho films). Most continuous-tone films have been panchromatic since the 1940s, though continuous-tone films ortho films such as Tri-X Ortho, Plus-X Ortho, and Portrait Ortho were around until the 70s or 80s.

Kodalith can be developed for a lower contrast result but it is hard to control.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orthochromatic
 
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Kodalith was an orthochromatic film. It is you who are confused. Litho has to do with the developer, not the film. Indeed, some films were made to produce certain results with litho developers. But there is nothing litho about the film itself.

The result is not hard to control. You shoot slow and stand develop in a dilute non litho developer. I've done it myself.
 
Kodalith was an orthochromatic film. It is you who are confused. Litho has to do with the developer, not the film. Indeed, some films were made to produce certain results with litho developers. But there is nothing litho about the film itself.

The result is not hard to control. You shoot slow and stand develop in a dilute non litho developer. I've done it myself.

Yes, there is.

Litho films in litho developers produced extreme contrast. Litho films in other developers produced lower contrast, true. But they never were easy to control.

Specialized products of this kind were designed to work with others.
 
The Rollei RHS developer is not specialized! It's just a plain old hydroquinone-based high speed developer!
 
The Rollei RHS developer is not specialized! It's just a plain old hydroquinone-based high speed developer!

I was referring to litho films. They are designed to work in litho developers.

'Regular' films (ISO 50-400) are designed to work in 'normal' developers such as D-76.

These 'copy' or 'microfilm' films are sort of in-between. The can produce high contrast for microfilm work, when developed in suitable developers (such as D-11 I suppose) or 'normal' contrast when developed in special low-contrast developers (such as Technidol was). Even when using 'normal' developers (such as D-76) there is higher-than-normal contrast.
 
Have you even looked at the spec sheet for this film? You get normal results using a normal developer. You get high contrast using a high contrast develoer. End of story. No in-between necessary.
 
Have you even looked at the spec sheet for this film? You get normal results using a normal developer. You get high contrast using a high contrast develoer. End of story. No in-between necessary.

The film is a microfilm type of material, not just a slow film such as Pan-F.
 
You're not addressing my point. Achieving pictorial results does not require the use of a special developer. I am officially done arguing with your nonsense.
 

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