Vibration reduction

k5MOW

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Good morning

I am considering getting the Tamron autofocus 70-300mm f4.0-5.6 Di LD macro Zoom lens with built-in motor. I would like to use this for wildlife photography. My question is this particular lens does not have vibration reduction. If I am using a fast enough shutter speed the way I see it this should not be too much of a loss. What do you all think will this lens give me decent wildlife shots.

Thanks Roger
 
Many telephoto zoom are soft at the long end, and this one is no exception. At 300 mm you will need to shoot at about f11 to get a decent (but not perfect) result. As you back off from the tele end you will gain more sharpness and more flexibility in apertures. At f11/300mm you will need to be on a tripod much of the time. Getting really first class results on the long end tends to be really expensive.
 
If you are using a fast shutter speed VR is of no consequence. There are even photographers who turn off vr at all times except when they consider they need it.

I think this lens is ok, but it is not fast at focus . The tamron micro motor is renowned for not being fast. It will get you nice shots when you aquire focus. Thats not to say its a poor buy, its probably the best at its price range. The later Tamrom USD VC has the vibration control you asked about (called a different name on nikon(vr), tamron (vc), sigma (os).). It also has a USD which is an ultrasonic drive, a faster mor eaccurate means of focus, but of course this adds to the price
 
Image stabilization (in all of it's various names) still helps the camera lock focus faster before the shot -- even when the shutter speed is fast enough that that it's not necessary during the exposure.
 
TCampbell said:
Image stabilization (in all of it's various names) still helps the camera lock focus faster before the shot -- even when the shutter speed is fast enough that that it's not necessary during the exposure.

This is the first time I have ever heard this allegation. Could you tell us more about this?
 
On my Pentax K-3 has In body stabilization so no need for it at the lens but I do find it very enoying not having it visible in the View finder.Even with careful technique and breathing just the slight movement is magnified huge at 400mm and still so backed off to 300mm.

For Birds or any other moving objects its not as big of deal because your moving - panning anyways but for birds parked on a stick especially tiny birds it helps me having the viewfinder not look jerky and IMO critical for precise focus point accuracy

I found the Sigma 120-400 APO HSM With Optical stabilization built In So I have the stabilization at the view finder and the control On or off at the lens.

I would get the Sp 70-300 Di VC USD version. Better build quality,optical quality,Ultra Silent Drive and the VC rocks,So for the times when slow shutters are more desirable and not having a taxed ISO In poor light you can hand hold when a tripod may not be ideal.
 
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I can't speak for the Tamron, but I have the Nikon 70-300 ED VR and am quite happy with it.
 
Good morning

I am considering getting the Tamron autofocus 70-300mm f4.0-5.6 Di LD macro Zoom lens with built-in motor. I would like to use this for wildlife photography. My question is this particular lens does not have vibration reduction. If I am using a fast enough shutter speed the way I see it this should not be too much of a loss. What do you all think will this lens give me decent wildlife shots.
Thanks Roger
I'd expect it to be capable of some fantastic wildlife shots.
However it's not perticularly fast or exceptionally high quality so it will be a more difficult job getting good shots than with a top class f2/8 telephoto...
Even with top glass long telephotos can require plenty of practice to get good results consistantly. Your own skill will be a significant in how good the results you get are.

Unfortunately this area frequently lets me down with wildlife, my stalking skills are near zero when out with the kids! (Not up to much without them either to be honest)
 
TCampbell said:
Image stabilization (in all of it's various names) still helps the camera lock focus faster before the shot -- even when the shutter speed is fast enough that that it's not necessary during the exposure.

This is the first time I have ever heard this allegation. Could you tell us more about this?
Yep. New to me too.
TC. Could you please explain how image stabilization aids phase-detect and/or contrast-detect auto focus ?
 
I would think that's based on whatever piece of the image falls on the AF sensor would be easier to "see," being stabilized, but like others, I've not seen it mentioned as a VR benefit, or tested as such.
 
The only way I can see anti-shake helping AF is if you have a complex scene whilst using spot/point AF mode and thus a smoother viewfinder image and holding allows you to more easily keep the focus point on the target; whereas without it you'd find it harder since the AF would keep jumping as you shift your focus around the scene a little. Especially the case if you've a very thin depth of field to work with.

Likely one of those things where people with steadier hands will not find a bonus whilst those with less steady or just in less steady conditions might gain a bonus.


Otherwise IS/OS/VR won't aid focusing and because the anti-shake has to "spin up" to take effect and counter shake properly if you're fast shooting (ergo pretty much point-focus-shoot) chances are the anti-shake is a hindrance rather than bonus (certainly I know of many sports togs who don't use it because that is their prefered method of shooting
 
I had that when shooting whales from a small boat, we were bouncing around so much that at 300mm and no VR it was too hard to keep the focus point on the whale. Usually we were going towards them so I in Continuous. With VR on I could keep the center focus point over the whale. I don't remember now, but I probably had it in active VR as I was on the moving boat. So I feel that VR can help to focus in these situations.
 
(certainly I know of many sports togs who don't use it because that is their prefered method of shooting

Agree - I also know of several birdographers that choose not to use it (specifically for BIF). Mine is on always, but at some point I should try without.
 

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