Where to start for an astro lens for a D300S

[J-Cal]

I'm looking to learn how to shoot some stars on my old D300S. I've never tried before and i'm just looking to be pointed in the right direction. Thanks in advance!

 

[jcdeboever]

I am not an expert but I would think something wide like a Sigma 17-35mm 2.8-4 or a 17-50mm 2.8 if your on a budget. Heck, even the 35mm 1.8g would do it. Probably the best, I would consider Nikon 14-24mm 2.8 AF-S if I were really into it. I think using mirror lock up (Mup), sturdy tripod, and remote shutter helps this type of photography as well.

 

[J-Cal]

I am not an expert but I would think something wide like a Sigma 17-35mm 2.8-4 or a 17-50mm 2.8 if your on a budget. Heck, even the 35mm 1.8g would do it. Probably the best, I would consider Nikon 14-24mm 2.8 AF-S if I were really into it. I think using mirror lock up (Mup), sturdy tripod, and remote shutter helps this type of photography as well.

Thanks for the reply.! I think I have looked at that 14-24 Nikon. It's pricey. As a novice I don't think i'm going to throw down quite that much money.

 

[jcdeboever]

Any of the other would be cheaper. I think the 35mm 1.8 g would be the cheapest, and 17-50 works well if you decide it's not your thing. I have used both and they are good for other things too. I haven't done anything in a while but I am going to play around again since I have the Mup feature on my recently acquired D7200.

@astroNikon will probably chime in, he can guide you better. He once told me the 17-50 sigma should work fine but I got marginal results because my d3300 didn't have mirror lock up.

 

[KmH]

Unless you have a motorized mount, you'll want a fairly short focal length so you can make sufficiently long exposures without the stars getting elongated as a trail by Earth's rotation on it's axis.
The longer the focal length the shorter your exposure has to be to avoid star trails.

A new or used Nikon non-VR version
Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G ED II Zoom Lens would work and let you do up to 15 or so second exposures when used at 18 mm.

The iOpton SkyTracker in my signature is a tracker designed for use with a DSLR and lens. I bought a used SkyTracker a TPF member had for sale in the Buy & Sell forum.
A tracker has to be aligned with earth's rotation axis. The iOptron includes a finder scope that aids doing that.
iOptron 3302B SkyTracker Camera Mount - Black
iOptron has a redesigned version available these days.
SkyTracker Pro Camera Mount with Polar Scope

 

[jcdeboever]

You know, come to think of it, why don't you get started with what you have (18-200) and record the results using mirror up, tripod, and remote shutter. I would think to start just above 18mm, infinity focus, and f5.6. Do some timed exposures, some bulb exposures and see what you get. If you like the results or seek advice on some sample posts, you may be able to dial some technique in prior to a lens purchase.

 

[astroNikon]

I'm not so sure with crop cameras as I don't have one. But the 35mm/1.8 is a good place to start, and low cost. But your 18-200 - the 18mm part is also plenty wide though about f/3.5 aperture which may be enough to get started.

If you are doing just entire sky astrophotography then you want a wide and fast (low Aperture number) lens, in order to minimize star trails. 35mm/1.8 would be a good place to start too. You can get into wider lenses but the price goes up.

If you are focusing on particular parts of the sky you can go with a much longer lens, which costs quite a bit more money.

If you venture into longer exposure images you'll start getting into star trails and will need equipment to track across the sky. You can even venture into using large telescopes for deep space imaging.

There's a few important factors. The d7x00 (including the older d300/s bodies) and up cameras have MuP - Mirror LockUp.
On the d3x00 and d5x00 you can do a (on the D5500) d1:Exposure Delay Mode which will do a 1second delay between the time the button is pressed and the mirror goes up, and the shutter actually opens to take the image. I've found 5 seconds to be much better though. But you have MUP on the d300S.

Also a remote shutter release. On your d300s you'll need the kind with a round 10-pin cable. Most others use a small rectangular connector .. so take notice of that.

and the most obvious thing is finding a place that you can see the sky with minimal light (from buildings, etc) and sky pollution.

And get a STURDY tripod. Emphasis on Sturdy. ie, it will cost way more than cheap lenses.

 

[J-Cal]

Unless you have a motorized mount, you'll want a fairly short focal length so you can make sufficiently long exposures without the stars getting elongated as a trail by Earth's rotation on it's axis.
The longer the focal length the shorter your exposure has to be to avoid star trails.

A new or used Nikon non-VR version
Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G ED II Zoom Lens would work and let you do up to 15 or so second exposures when used at 18 mm.

The iOpton SkyTracker in my signature is a tracker designed for use with a DSLR and lens. I bought a used SkyTracker a TPF member had for sale in the Buy & Sell forum.
A tracker has to be aligned with earth's rotation axis. The iOptron includes a finder scope that aids doing that.
iOptron 3302B SkyTracker Camera Mount - Black
iOptron has a redesigned version available these days.
SkyTracker Pro Camera Mount with Polar Scope

Thanks for the lens reference. That's certainly affordable. I don't have a motorized mount. In fact I didn't know they even existed until you mentioned them and I looked at your links. It makes sense though. I'm just looking to capture the stars first, so i'm not sure i'll be doing long enough exposures to be needing a mount. Although I am totally new to this so who knows.

 

[J-Cal]

You know, come to think of it, why don't you get started with what you have (18-200) and record the results using mirror up, tripod, and remote shutter. I would think to start just above 18mm, infinity focus, and f5.6. Do some timed exposures, some bulb exposures and see what you get. If you like the results or seek advice on some sample posts, you may be able to dial some technique in prior to a lens purchase.

I have a nice tripod, and I now have a wireless timer/trigger so I may try on the next clear night I have off. Although, I read a post on here about how to determine the lengths of exposures in bulb mode and it sounded pretty difficult. I'm just a saxophone player, and not the brightest bulb on the tree. LOL.

 

[J-Cal]

I'm not so sure with crop cameras as I don't have one. But the 35mm/1.8 is a good place to start, and low cost. But your 18-200 - the 18mm part is also plenty wide though about f/3.5 aperture which may be enough to get started.

If you are doing just entire sky astrophotography then you want a wide and fast (low Aperture number) lens, in order to minimize star trails. 35mm/1.8 would be a good place to start too. You can get into wider lenses but the price goes up.

If you are focusing on particular parts of the sky you can go with a much longer lens, which costs quite a bit more money.

If you venture into longer exposure images you'll start getting into star trails and will need equipment to track across the sky. You can even venture into using large telescopes for deep space imaging.

There's a few important factors. The d7x00 (including the older d300/s bodies) and up cameras have MuP - Mirror LockUp.
On the d3x00 and d5x00 you can do a (on the D5500) d1:Exposure Delay Mode which will do a 1second delay between the time the button is pressed and the mirror goes up, and the shutter actually opens to take the image. I've found 5 seconds to be much better though. But you have MUP on the d300S.

Also a remote shutter release. On your d300s you'll need the kind with a round 10-pin cable. Most others use a small rectangular connector .. so take notice of that.

and the most obvious thing is finding a place that you can see the sky with minimal light (from buildings, etc) and sky pollution.

And get a STURDY tripod. Emphasis on Sturdy. ie, it will cost way more than cheap lenses.

Thank you for the info. I have a decent tripod and I just purchased a remote trigger. I'll take a look at the mirror lockup mode as well. I've heard it mentioned even before I started this thread.