Which modifier for this specific light shape?

erkindemir

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Hello there. Lately, I am seeing this type of lighting often. Any idea how to achieve this effect.?
 

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I think you could manage both of those simply with barn doors, set to just give a narrow beam. But if there's a more unusual shape you want you gave always just use a mask to block the rest (a 'Gobo') These can be cut to any shape you want :)
The first example clearly has a gel as well, with a second light used for the background.
 
Flags, " gobos", cukaloris (cookie)cinefoil, 2 -way barndoors.
 
thank you for your replies, especially you @Derrel, you have been very helpful whenever I have a question for the last 6-7 years=)

does a barn door and a cinefoil with the cut out shape enough for the effect? I have profoto heads and finding a cheap alternative is hard where I live.

this looks like the thing I look for but, trying to achieve the same with more reasonable price=)
 
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The Profoto Spot Small...$1,000 US.... a few years ago a made-in-China device of the same basic idea was sold and I think it was $350... I cannot recall what the name was.
 
from what I understand, for the distinctive shadows, an optical snoot is the best choice. Strobepro Optical Snoot Kit this is one I could find for the profoto, but currently unavailable. I will edit the post if I manage to obtain one or diy for myself.
 
from what I understand, for the distinctive shadows, an optical snoot is the best choice. Strobepro Optical Snoot Kit this is one I could find for the profoto, but currently unavailable. I will edit the post if I manage to obtain one or diy for myself.
My snoot & all the others I've seen produces a small round light,but there's nothing to stop a mask being added to the front - or you making your own in rectangular format :)
 
from what I understand, for the distinctive shadows, an optical snoot is the best choice. Strobepro Optical Snoot Kit this is one I could find for the profoto, but currently unavailable. I will edit the post if I manage to obtain one or diy for myself.
My snoot & all the others I've seen produces a small round light,but there's nothing to stop a mask being added to the front - or you making your own in rectangular format :)

thank you! so you re saying a regular snoot like this with a custom made gobo is enough for the results like in the example? I am not chasing the razor sharp edges(people use optical ones for this I believe) but need to be sure before buying useless snoot=)
 
from what I understand, for the distinctive shadows, an optical snoot is the best choice. Strobepro Optical Snoot Kit this is one I could find for the profoto, but currently unavailable. I will edit the post if I manage to obtain one or diy for myself.
My snoot & all the others I've seen produces a small round light,but there's nothing to stop a mask being added to the front - or you making your own in rectangular format :)

thank you! so you re saying a regular snoot like this with a custom made gobo is enough for the results like in the example? I am not chasing the razor sharp edges(people use optical ones for this I believe) but need to be sure before buying useless snoot=)
I don't see why that wouldn't work, but a Gobo on a spill kill might well be all you need. Seems to me it's worth trying first.
 
I watched the video for the Strobepro Optical Snoot and it looked quite good--well worth the $300 I would say. By adding a lens it tremendously increased the versatility of each gobo.
 
The effect you want to duplicate was done with an optical spot, notice the chroma on the models face at the edges of the light pattern where the light was focused.

However, this effect can be achieved using cookies and flags and a bare head, the key is using a small light source and getting the flags close to the subject. Barn doors attached to a light are too far away from the subject to get a clean hard line as in your examples and the reflector size makes it more challenging.
 
Here's a quick example of a bare head, no reflector, two black foam core boards positioned in between the head and the subject with an angled slit tapering to the top to let the light through. You may in fact have all of this gear and it does save you from buying an optical spot however, the look of a spot is quite distinct.

barehead_flagged.jpg
 
Thank you for your detailed replies! seems like optical spot is the way to go. some brands have built in lenses, others require canon lenses to perform (like strobe pro). I am considering built in ones because I am not a canon shooter. Do you think there will be a quality loss?

here is a good experiment.
this looks like the best option, even though it doesn't have the slit Gabo the I need.
 
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A legit optical spot has five controls;
1. Aperture, to adjust the size of the projected pattern, more blades means smoother edges.
2. Cookie holder, this plate has slots or clips that allow you to swap out the cookies, which are made of stainless steel with various patterns. Keeping in mind you may be able to adapt other brands of cookies to fit yours. You can make your own out of Cinefoil too.
3. A blade slot to slide in metal blades to cut off the edges. This lets you change a round projected circle into a square, trapezoid or with two blades a slot at any angle you want which is what you are looking for.
4. Focus control allowing you to either blur the projected pattern or make it tack sharp. The better optical quality with reduce chromatic aberrations at the edges of the focus point, slightly defocusing a poorer optic can help if you are not seeking a fine detail in the pattern.
5. Zoom, this lets you adjust the size of the projected pattern with sliding internal optics. It can be useful if you need to place your spot at a particular location and change the size of the pattern.

Some of the above features may or may not be critical to what you require but options you are looking at don’t have the blade slot. You can use flags to give you the slot effect, it just won’t have a sharp transition.

Considering Amazon’s return policy and that price, I’d be tempted to try that one.
 
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I would use a pair of cinefoil sheets cloths pinned (c47's) to the side barn doors on a flooded fresnel light. Remember, the closer the edge of the modifier is to the subject/wall, the harder, ie faster shadow edge transition, the edges of the shadows. So I would have it just out of frame.
 

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