WHY GREEN?

[CorrieMichael]

Ugh................So I love my 6D but the only difference and hurdle I am still trying to overcome is that I find it generally shoots to the green side. In some instances REAALLLLY green. I use Kelvin for my white balance and so even when I warm up the image with Kelvin it is warmer but STILL green. In some instances I CANNOT manually fix my WB and have to use automatic WB to get my image to not be green. What am I doing wrong.....your help is greatly appreciated

 

[Ysarex]

Ugh................So I love my 6D but the only difference and hurdle I am still trying to overcome is that I find it generally shoots to the green side. In some instances REAALLLLY green. I use Kelvin for my white balance and so even when I warm up the image with Kelvin it is warmer but STILL green. In some instances I CANNOT manually fix my WB and have to use automatic WB to get my image to not be green. What am I doing wrong.....your help is greatly appreciated

Green is tint not temp. White balance contains two components. Color temp (Kelvin) is blue/yellow. As the temp goes up the color gets increasingly blue. If you're having a green problem that's Tint. Tint is magenta/green. If you open a raw file in LR you'll see sliders for both temp and tint.

Joe

 

[CorrieMichael]

Ugh................So I love my 6D but the only difference and hurdle I am still trying to overcome is that I find it generally shoots to the green side. In some instances REAALLLLY green. I use Kelvin for my white balance and so even when I warm up the image with Kelvin it is warmer but STILL green. In some instances I CANNOT manually fix my WB and have to use automatic WB to get my image to not be green. What am I doing wrong.....your help is greatly appreciated

Green is tint not temp. White balance contains two components. Color temp (Kelvin) is blue/yellow. As the temp goes up the color gets increasingly blue. If you're having a green problem that's Tint. Tint is magenta/green. If you open a raw file in LR you'll see sliders for both temp and tint.

Joe

Okay.....so why when I AW it is not green? Is there a setting in my camera I can change my tint? I get that it is a tint but thought I might be able to manually fix this......just not sure why this is happening? I never had this issue with my 40D if anything it used to shoot red..........

I am constantly fixing the green in post............

 

[Ysarex]

Ugh................So I love my 6D but the only difference and hurdle I am still trying to overcome is that I find it generally shoots to the green side. In some instances REAALLLLY green. I use Kelvin for my white balance and so even when I warm up the image with Kelvin it is warmer but STILL green. In some instances I CANNOT manually fix my WB and have to use automatic WB to get my image to not be green. What am I doing wrong.....your help is greatly appreciated

Green is tint not temp. White balance contains two components. Color temp (Kelvin) is blue/yellow. As the temp goes up the color gets increasingly blue. If you're having a green problem that's Tint. Tint is magenta/green. If you open a raw file in LR you'll see sliders for both temp and tint.

Joe

Okay.....so why when I AW it is not green? Is there a setting in my camera I can change my tint? I get that it is a tint but thought I might be able to manually fix this......just not sure why this is happening? I never had this issue with my 40D if anything it used to shoot red..........

I am constantly fixing the green in post............

When you use the AW setting the camera will set both temp and tint values. If you manually set the WB and use the Kelvin temp adjustment you'll get a default tint at zero. You can make a tint adjustment manually by using the WB/Shift option from the camera menu.

It's a lot easier to either set a custom WB from a reference target if you're shooting JPEGs or to simply photograph a reference target to use later when processing the raw files.

Joe

 

[TCampbell]

See page 123 of your manual... "White Balance Shift"

White balance is normally going to adjust the balance between blue and red (cooler or warmer) but on your camera it is also possible to manually force the camera to tint the image green or magenta. Check the settings on that menu and set the camera back to neutral.

Also... it's possible to adjust this through "Picture Style" settings as well. Check the "picture style" menu and make sure you've selected either "Neutral" or "Faithful" (as those settings won't tamper with colors like the other settings may do.)

 

[Derrel]

Corrie,
Are you perhaps photographing outdoors where there is a lot of green, due to large expanses of grass, or deciduous trees like big leaf maple or oak? I live in an area where grass and mixed maple/douglas fir woods create horribly GREEN lighting conditions. I mean, if you're shooting outdoors, say underneath a canopy of big leaf maples that are on average 60 feet tall, the light that filters through is verrrrry green.

 

[table1349]

Unless you are using something like this: Sekonic Prodigi Color C-500 Color Meter 401-500 B&H Photo Video You are probably not going to get your Kelvin temp right. Get a good target and do custom WB. Something like this is a whole lot cheaper and easier. WhiBal G7 White Balance Studio Card WB7-SC B&H Photo Video

 

[CorrieMichael]

Corrie,
Are you perhaps photographing outdoors where there is a lot of green, due to large expanses of grass, or deciduous trees like big leaf maple or oak? I live in an area where grass and mixed maple/douglas fir woods create horribly GREEN lighting conditions. I mean, if you're shooting outdoors, say underneath a canopy of big leaf maples that are on average 60 feet tall, the light that filters through is verrrrry green.

no this was actually indoors with no light on only natural light filtering downwards on subject........it was rendering as if I were in a shopping mall....or arena.......very weird actually

 

[CorrieMichael]

Thanks everyone

 

[KmH]

Not yet mentioned is that the sensor that is used to set the Auto WB value may need to be re-calibrated or replaced.

 

[Derrel]

WHenever ANY weird behavior like this is encountered, I think of performing what Nikon calls the "two-button reset", which zeros out a huge,huge number of customized control functions to their basic or default settings; I am thinking that restoring the entire camera's "default settings" is a worthwhile thing to try. With the zillion-and-one custom functions and custom settings that are possible these days, it's possible to try to go through a new d-slr's menus looking for a problem setting, and actually miss seeing the exact, one, wrong thing that is screwing you up...

...which is one reason to use the "two-button reset" type of option....just clear the slate, and start over, anew!!!

I'd deff try restoring ALL the camera's options to factory defaults, then checking to see if the issue is resolved, because there's just something about this that makes me think it's a control option issue.

I am assuming that the images look wonky on both the camera AND in software, right???