Words of Advice Would be Appreciated

[SilverEF88]

So I think I can make decent images, but when it comes time to frame I get lost in the thousands of colors of mat and frames. My professor swears by brown frames and a cream colored mat. Not quite me though. What I think would look best is a simple black frame and a white mat. All the pictures that I am framing are B&W, 16" square +, and all created analog. If anyone would share what they have found to work the best I would appreciate the feedback. Thank you.

 

[480sparky]

What I want / like / prefer / suggest isn't relevant as the image isn't going to be hanging on my wall.

 

[SilverEF88]

Right but with all interior design/color combo-oh god the through pillows totally clash with the curtains...aside, what I was wondering is what frame/mat combo people felt looked best with a B&W image.

 

[KenC]

I like simple black frame/white mat for most things, color or bw. It certainly can't clash with any of your interior colors.

 

[Derrel]

I think white mats compete very strongly with the image they surround. To me, a light to medium gray colored mat is superior,and seems to make colors "pop!" and makes B&W images look pretty good too. Frames can be anything.

 

[Bitter Jeweler]

I agree with Derrel.

My better half, a professional framer, says it's best to mat and frame to the art, not the room.
Some interior decorators don't. The rule is, the room could change, the art will not.

 

[SilverEF88]

Thanks, I will definitely look at the gray colored mats. I would spend so much time on the print and then walk in to pick out some mat and be stumped. Now maybe I will be able to have a basis to go with.

 

[KmH]

Colored mat and frames can work with color images.

B&W images is another story.

 

[Derrel]

I just wanted to add this additional thought: I believe that a mat should have 50% more space at the bottom edge of the image than at the sides and top, with a spacing of 1:1:1: 1.5 units being about ideal. If the aperture in the mat is perfectly symmetrical the image just doesn't seem to be "on display" to the same degree as when there is a 50% larger border below the image, lending it a subtle visual support,or what I call a "visual anchor". The difference is also visible in on-line or "digital" matting and hairline framing/bordering, as in this example: IMGP3113web-reboxed.JPG photo - Derrel photos at pbase.com

 

[KmH]

AKA a bottom weighted mat border: Documounts :: Documounts 101 Click on - Mats: Setbacks and Weighting.

 

[SilverEF88]

Never thought about that but after seeing the example it does "feel" a lot better. Thanks, I feel a lot more comfortable about going in and choosing my mats and frames now.

 

[SilverEF88]

AKA a bottom weighted mat border: Documounts :: Documounts 101 Click on - Mats: Setbacks and Weighting.

Site has now been bookmarked, thank you.

 

[Bitter Jeweler]

I just wanted to add this additional thought: I believe that a mat should have 50% more space at the bottom edge of the image than at the sides and top, with a spacing of 1:1:1: 1.5 units being about ideal. If the aperture in the mat is perfectly symmetrical the image just doesn't seem to be "on display" to the same degree as when there is a 50% larger border below the image, lending it a subtle visual support,or what I call a "visual anchor". The difference is also visible in on-line or "digital" matting and hairline framing/bordering, as in this example: IMGP3113web-reboxed.JPG photo - Derrel photos at pbase.com

You know, I was taught that in high school art class, but I never noticed anyone to do that in photo club for competitions. Ima gonna pay closer attention.

I also just asked my better half and yes mats are always cut with 1/4 to 1/2 inch more on the bottom.

 

[diipii]

Try a few, pick the best. You decide.