Aspiring Photographer Looking For a Start.

[Derrel]

Not much difference between a single-wheel camera in Aperture Priority and any other camera...you set ONE control, and adjust ONE control as is needed, and the camera adjusts the other parameter as needed.

Taking "full control" of the camera is not all that needed much of the time, and when it is necessary, often the extent of full,manual control involves nothing more than setting a specific aperture, and a specific shutter speed, and LEAVING them set exactly that one way: I have shot many countless flash assignments this way, setting my aperture to f/7.1 or f/8 at the start, and my shutter speed to 1/200 second, then firing hundreds of photos at the same, exact exposure. All with "full, manual control" of the camera..at the start of each assignment.

The over-emphasis on exactly how one controls a camera as a determinant of what camera is "good" (D90, D7000) and what camera is "bad" is mostly a prejudice based on familiarity with one way of doing things. People are highly adaptable. Aperture priority auto has been a mainstay of millions of advanced users for almost 50 years now; set the f/stop, and monitor what the shutter is doing. Boom...it's like manually matching diodes or matching needles, except FAST, almost effortless, and very much less-prone to "forgetting to meter" and blowing shots.

As most advanced shooters know, there is almost always only one, single parameter that is essential to control-either f/stop, or shutter speed. The way the exposure controls are manipulated is really quite secondary to the quality of results obtained.

 

[tecboy]

....I have tried it with cheaper cameras and the shot always comes out horrible. This is partially due to me being a noob, and partially due to cheap cameras.....

Can you post a few picture samples here. I take very good pictures with my p&s camera and my iPad.

 

[fjrabon]

Not much difference between a single-wheel camera in Aperture Priority and any other camera...you set ONE control, and adjust ONE control as is needed, and the camera adjusts the other parameter as needed.

Taking "full control" of the camera is not all that needed much of the time, and when it is necessary, often the extent of full,manual control involves nothing more than setting a specific aperture, and a specific shutter speed, and LEAVING them set exactly that one way: I have shot many countless flash assignments this way, setting my aperture to f/7.1 or f/8 at the start, and my shutter speed to 1/200 second, then firing hundreds of photos at the same, exact exposure. All with "full, manual control" of the camera..at the start of each assignment.

The over-emphasis on exactly how one controls a camera as a determinant of what camera is "good" (D90, D7000) and what camera is "bad" is mostly a prejudice based on familiarity with one way of doing things. People are highly adaptable. Aperture priority auto has been a mainstay of millions of advanced users for almost 50 years now; set the f/stop, and monitor what the shutter is doing. Boom...it's like manually matching diodes or matching needles, except FAST, almost effortless, and very much less-prone to "forgetting to meter" and blowing shots.

As most advanced shooters know, there is almost always only one, single parameter that is essential to control-either f/stop, or shutter speed. The way the exposure controls are manipulated is really quite secondary to the quality of results obtained.

I don't think one is inherently better than the other. Simply that a single control wheel definitely pushes you very hard to exclusively shoot in a priority mode, and makes manual shooting seem much harder than it is.

I certainly don't think you have to shoot manual all the time. I'd say I shoot in auto ISO 95% of the time on my x100T and aperture priority 70% of the time on my dSLRs. My point is simply that I think *if you want to learn exposure* and *if you want to learn how to take control of the camera when needed/wanted* dual wheels are better to learn on.

Now, ideally, I think we'd all go to auto-ISO with exposure compensation for anything other than non-TTL flash, IMHO.

But ultimately my point was, I think since if you progress in photography you'll eventually want to be able to, at times, take control of both aperture and SS, I think it's good to get used to that very early on.

I learned in A mode on a single wheel camera, and I really do think it slowed my progress when I eventually did actually need to consistently control both. Luckily I got thrown to the wolves in a sink or swim with manual control flash and mixed flash ambient lighting, and had to learn quickly, but I think most people won't be shooting that way for 20 hours a week, so they may benefit from feeling comfortable with dual wheels from the get go, and then switching to a priority mode when that works better.

I'm no manual mode snob at all. But I do think it's beneficial if manual mode is as easy as possible when you do need to shoot that way.

 

[Gary A.]

I shoot in "M" 90% of the time and 100% in tricky situations. A few days ago I shot a theatrical performance, the lighting was constantly changing, the performers were constantly moving, I was constantly moving and intense spot lights came on as quickly as they came off. I was constantly fiddling with aperture and shutter and occasionally ISO. I appreciated the EVF as I was able to see my exposure in real time without having to check the meter. While the following statement doesn't relate to my described situation, I agree with frabon "*if you want to learn exposure* and *if you want to learn how to take control of the camera when needed/wanted* dual wheels are better to learn on."

 

[Derrel]

I would say, just get a camera. Get a modern camera, with a superb, modern sensor; a camera like the Nikon D5200 with the articulated viewing screen is the suggestion I'm offering, since it'll give you more viewing options, and will encourage you to explore NON-eye-level framing options more so than any camera that lacks an articulated screen. Canon and Nikon's entry-level camera have used the single-wheel control system for twenty-five years or so now, plus their introductory-level camera models have dedicated scene mode options as well. Worrying about the exact mechanics of a camera is about as pointless as the stick-shift-ONLY crowd's braying about how awesome it is to be able clutch,shift-clutch-shift-clutch-shift 100 to 150 times per traffic jam on today's crowded freeways...as opposed to putting the transmission into Drive and...driving...

It's pretty much the same thing as the stick shift versus automatic transmission argument logic, with experienced shooters with high-end cameras and lenses suggesting that the beginning driver MUST see the absolute need, the superiority, of the manual transmission. Especially since we drive so often at 5 to 15 MPH in bumper-to-bumper commutes, it's great to be able to go between 1st and 2nd all commute long...

The stick shift driver and the automatic transmission driver can both get their cars to the same exact location. In the modern world, the stick shift is a royal PITA in many situations. But it offers more "control"....along with a great workout for the knee.

Learning exposure is about a two-day deal. Learning how to take and make photographs is a lifelong process. There's no need to glorify the way exposure is set. That's why Canon and Nikon both make cameras that have scene modes and single-wheel control systems, and why they have made them this way for over 25 years now.

 

[fjrabon]

I would say, just get a camera. Get a modern camera, with a superb, modern sensor; a camera like the Nikon D5200 with the articulated viewing screen is the suggestion I'm offering, since it'll give you more viewing options, and will encourage you to explore NON-eye-level framing options more so than any camera that lacks an articulated screen. Canon and Nikon's entry-level camera have used the single-wheel control system for twenty-five years or so now, plus their introductory-level camera models have dedicated scene mode options as well. Worrying about the exact mechanics of a camera is about as pointless as the stick-shift-ONLY crowd's braying about how awesome it is to be able clutch,shift-clutch-shift-clutch-shift 100 to 150 times per traffic jam on today's crowded freeways...as opposed to putting the transmission into Drive and...driving...

It's pretty much the same thing as the stick shift versus automatic transmission argument logic, with experienced shooters with high-end cameras and lenses suggesting that the beginning driver MUST see the absolute need, the superiority, of the manual transmission. Especially since we drive so often at 5 to 15 MPH in bumper-to-bumper commutes, it's great to be able to go between 1st and 2nd all commute long...

The stick shift driver and the automatic transmission driver can both get their cars to the same exact location. In the modern world, the stick shift is a royal PITA in many situations. But it offers more "control"....along with a great workout for the knee.

Learning exposure is about a two-day deal. Learning how to take and make photographs is a lifelong process. There's no need to glorify the way exposure is set. That's why Canon and Nikon both make cameras that have scene modes and single-wheel control systems, and why they have made them this way for over 25 years now.

I don't agree with this analogy for several reasons:

1) while it isn't ever *really* necessary to drive with a manual shift, you yourself recommended to a new photographer shooting in manual mode on another thread *today*. Manual is highly advantageous in a major branch of photography. Ie flash. That's just to name one area it's beneficial, unlike manual shifting in a car, which is mostly for enthusiast gratification in this day and age.

2) most manual shift transmissions are ALWAYS manual. If you're in a situation where an automatic would be advantageous, welp, stuck with manual. Aperture priority mode still exists in cameras with two control wheels. It's not like the mode wheel doesn't exist on a D90.

3) even if you're shooting in a priority mode, multiple control wheels are beneficial because one can be set to exposure compensation. So even if you never venture outside of auto shooting, two wheels are still better than one.

I have the utmost respect for your opinions derrel, but I think this analogy is a very bad fit and drastically understates the benefit of multiple control wheels.

Manual mode is a useful tool in many scenarios. It's not the be all and end all. But again, I'll remind you that you yourself recommended manual mode earlier today to a newbie photographer when using flash. Multiple wheels makes manual shooting much easier and much less intimidating. That's my opinion anyway (since we need to constantly add that qualifier in here now, apparently). The D5300 is a great camera, but I think *if the person's goal is to eventually be a well-rounded photographer* it's better to learn two wheels early on. That was my experience. It took me a while to learn the feel of a second control wheel when manual became a necessity.

 

[IronMaskDuval]

Nikon D5200, for the flippy screen, so you can experiment with lower angles of view, and for value/price. Whatever you get, you need to WORK at learning a bunch of new skills. Working hard and studying and practicing are probably more important than the camera.

I'd take a D90/used D7x00 over a D5X00 if I had aspirations as getting deep into photography. D5100 makes manual shooting irritating, I think the D90 (and any multi control wheel camera) better facilitates taking full control of the camera when needed.

I agree! And there's one for sale in Buy and Sell!!!!!!!

 

[dawnofallure]

Alright, so after some research and discussing it with a friend of mine who is a professional photographer I decided to get the Canon EOS Rebel T5 for $399.