Best Macro Bang for My Buck?

Greek. In Latin it would be something along the lines of 'lux', as in 'E tenebris lux' (from the darkness, light) or the slightly different 'lumen' (more like 'lamp').

Best,
Helen

I love it.
 
:shock: she really does know everything! :shock:

Phil, Nikon or Canon, a $55 lens is too good to be true. Follow usayit's advice and shop smart!

Btw Alfred that system however cheap it is won't work if your near focus distance is 1m ;)
 
I studied latin for a short time. Reading "The Three Little Pigs" as tanslated by a true linguist just seems to add something to it... LOL!

I really love my Sigma 105mm F/2.8 macro... my results are always pleasing.
 
Another setup (relatively inexpensive) to consider...
M42 screwmount adapter for whatever camera you are using
M42 screwmount bellows unit
Takumar 50mm f2 lens

This setup will require a bit more adjustment so tripod is necessary.

That sounds like a fun setup, M42 adapters are everywhere for about $15, with out the AF confirm, or you can spend a little more with it, but likely unnecessary. The lens and Bellows can both be had at Keh.com

Usayit, any particular reason to choose the f2 , rather than others like the f1.4?
 
Usayit, any particular reason to choose the f2 , rather than others like the f1.4?

No particular reason... The f/2 is cheaper and easier to find crystal clear. The Takumar f/1.4 are famous for their slightly radioactive coatings that turn yellow over time. I actually used the 135mm takumar more often on the bellows to give me working distance. I posted this example in the "shallow depth of field" assignment (using bellows+135mm).... yes.. if you wondering I was bored at home.. heheh lol

306042128.jpg



BTW.... at least on my Samsung DSLR, I still get autofocus confirmation with an M42.
 
BTW.... at least on my Samsung DSLR, I still get autofocus confirmation with an M42.

You know I was just thinking about it and with the crappy focusing screens in most DSLRs, I think the adapter w/af confirmation would be a good Idea, and /or possibly installing a 3rd party split-image focusing screen.

I haven't really shopped around for others, but Gadget Infinity has the M42 adapter with AF confirmation for $45, the adapter without the AF confirm(just a metal ring with no electrical connections) is only $15.

Link,
http://www.gadgetinfinity.com/search.php?mode=search

Also they have focusing screen for $30, although I have not seen any reviews and I know that there are many others available.

Link,
http://www.gadgetinfinity.com/home.php?cat=296

I was looking at their radio triggers and just started browsing their site, for the price, I think I might try some of their other products as long as I ordering stuff from china.

BTW, I only searched for Canon stuff because thats what I shoot, but I sure similar Items are available for most brands
 
I buy from ebay all the time.... no problems yet. There is risk involved much like any bargain hunting. You just have to be smart about how you play the game.

Though the odd times, you can find a bargain on ebay, I just see/hear all the horror stories people around me tell me about being ripped off. For perhaps a few dollars more, I choose to avoid ebay and look elsewhere.

Starting with supporting known good vendors or known reputable companies, and using ebay and known vendors for pricing, I can make safer decisions and not ever need to be bothered dealing with being ripped off.

I find it a crap shoot... and I prefer not to gamble.
 
Don't get me wrong... I support local camera shops all the time (as mentioned in TPF several times). All my leica stuff is purchased locally.... large ticket items are local. When I say "local" I"m not even referring to BH or Adorama either. It is the small things for my collection that are purchased through ebay... rangefinder collection... takumar lenses... pentax screwmounts.. etc.. Since all of these items are no longer in production, it is easier (and better selection) than wandering through garage sales and antique stores for that find that occurs once in every 6 months.

I've heard those stories too but I've never been a victim. I'm super paranoid and very careful (check feedback and history). I try not to "watch" the auctions and get involved in a bidding war.

It would be an interesting thought if there was a sticky of ebay IDs threads that TPF members have had good experiences. Here are some of the IDs backed by actually real stores.

adorwin - Adorama of NYC. Lots of good items
bergen_county_camera - my local camera shop
bh-photo - BH of course
cameraprofessor - some repair shop in livingston NJ
kehoutlet - KEH of course
kurlandphoto - high end camera store in NJ
mpplus - local shop in NJ
photovillage - high end camera store in NJ
photozoneusa - local shop in NJ
 
You know I was just thinking about it and with the crappy focusing screens in most DSLRs, I think the adapter w/af confirmation would be a good Idea, and /or possibly installing a 3rd party split-image focusing screen.

I have no personal experience as I ended up just buying a K-mount DSLR for easy support of my screwmount Takumars. What I can say is that in the Leica-R world, LOTS of photographers use the Canon 5D with Leica R lenses (they are manual too) using an adapter that has a chip to allow AF confirmation. I do remember Iron Flatline using one. I don't see why it would be any different adapting screwmount lenses to a Canon body using a similar adapter. Now the only challenge is finding a good quality M42 to Screwmount adapter.
 
I have no personal experience as I ended up just buying a K-mount DSLR for easy support of my screwmount Takumars. What I can say is that in the Leica-R world, LOTS of photographers use the Canon 5D with Leica R lenses (they are manual too) using an adapter that has a chip to allow AF confirmation. I do remember Iron Flatline using one. I don't see why it would be any different adapting screwmount lenses to a Canon body using a similar adapter. Now the only challenge is finding a good quality M42 to Screwmount adapter.

That basically what I was thinking. There are very cheap adapters without the chip for focus confirmation, and there are the better one that do have have the focus confirmation. With the 20D, XT and other APS canon cameras the focusing screen basically sucks for manual focusing, plus the viewfinders are smaller, so its more difficult or just takes more time to focus manually. Since the 5D is a full frame I'm sure that the larger viewfinder alone helps.

Also, If someone was planning on doing mostly macro work, or even just using manual focus lenses a lot, the split-image screen like film cameras had might be a worthwhile investment.

And I have no clue as to the quality of the adapters that I linked to, but its such a simple device you'd have to be a really incompetent designer to get it wrong, now the quality of the materials may be another subject.
 
Thanks Garbz... There's just one problem.. have I mentioned I'm only 13? (Meaning I have no income besides my soon to be created postcards).

Start mowing yards.


Yeah, he can start mowing or he could make his own lens. It's probably about the same number of hours mowing as it is to make your own and he'll learn something useful by making his own. Probably about the same amount of dedication is required as well. All the info needed is on the net and supplies are very reasonable. Who knows, he might like it and we'll have the next Tamron startup. ;)


That said if you're getting into macro photography what about a $25 close up lens first? There are two basic types. Single element multi-coated ones often designated by an MC printed on the barrel and multi-lens high grade achromatic ones often designated with an AC printed on the barrel. The price difference is usually negligible like $25 for the MC and $45 for the AC or something like that. Regardless of the focal length of your camera lens (if it's distance reading is set to infinity) focus is obtainable at a point equal to the distance from the tip of the camera's lens to the focal length of the close up attachment. Of course adjusting the focus in from infinity will bring it in closer as well! The various focal lengths available from close up attachments are all about the same price and designated usually by a "No. X" also printed on it's barrel. For example a "No. 1" close up lens is 1,000mm and a "No. 10" is 100mm. This would mean that with a No.1 the farthest you can (typically) focus out to is 1000mm or about 1 yard and with a No.10 100mm (10 cm) or about 1/3 of a foot. Here's a useful table of designate numbers and their typical focal lengths:

Ah, bummer... no {code} {/code} tags here???

OK, I'll look for one someone else made on line: (hmm no luck on the first 5 tries) OK, bare with the justified text here then I guess:

Number.........Focal Length............Magnification
No.1.............. 1000mm................ 1/20 - 1/6.5
No.2................ 500mm................ 1/10 - 1/5
No.3................ 330mm................ 1/6.7 - 1/4
No.4................ 250mm................ 1/5 - 1/3
No.5................ 200mm................ 1/4 - 1/2.8
No.6................ 160mm................
No.7................ 140mm................
No.8................ 125mm................
No.9................ 115mm................
No.10.............. 100mm................ 1/2.3 - 1/1.7

The AC types are really recommended as there's almost no fringing or other aberrations that occur with them as opposed to the single lens MC types. At about No. 8 you start seeing some pin cushion (AKA Pillow shaped) distortion on the outer edges for both types. It's usually not too bad though depending on the camera's lens.

I often read people recommending to buy a set comprised of No.1, No.2, and No. 4 only - saying that by combining them you can get a No. 3 (by adding the No.1 atop the No.2), No. 5 (4+1), No. 6 (4+2), and a No.7 (1+2+4) but I dunno if I would recommend that as aberrations (fringe etc.) and distortions are compounded not to mention that these things are thick so with just 2 of them on the front of your lens you've got about a 1 inch black tube which will cause severe vignetting at the lower end of most zoom lenses. I would get a No. 4 (or 5) and a No. 10 (or 9) if I had limited funds and wanted to play with macro. And probably the No. 4 (or 5) is more generally useful than the 10.

Extension tubes are "OK" too but far less convenient IMO and now you're exposing your sensor to dust every time you attache or remove it. :(

Hope that helps.
 
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