Lens suggestion for Night Photography

[arnab_n]

Am new to Slr Photography....

After Dabbling in Night Photography specially Involving people and Motion
I think I would need a Faster Lens..

My current One: Canon 550D with 18-55 lens

Pros.........Please Advice me What kind of Lens is Good for Night Photography....involving People and Motion.....

Thanks
Arnab

 

[kelli_anne]

I didnt know that there is a "night lens" I have done night photography and painting with lights and I have never had a problem with my nikon lenses.

If there a such thing as "night lenses" please someone clue me in!

 

[arnab_n]

@Kelly

What I meant was Which lenses will Help me more in night Photography...higher aperture and High shutter speed

 

[KmH]

You need lenses that can open to a wide maximum aperture.

They need to be constant aperture lenses if you elect to get zoom lenses, rather than Prime lenses.

Unfortunately, the wider a lens can open the more they generally cost.

Canon "night and motion lenses"

Some Primes:


EOS (SLR) Camera Systems - Standard & Medium Telephoto - Medium Telephoto Lens - EF 85mm f/1.2L II USM - Canon USA Consumer Products

EOS (SLR) Camera Systems - Telephoto - Telephoto Lens - EF 135mm f/2L USM - Canon USA Consumer Products

EOS (SLR) Camera Systems - Super Telephoto - Telephoto Lens - EF 300mm f/2.8L IS USM - Canon USA Consumer Products

EOS (SLR) Camera Systems - Super Telephoto - Super Telephoto Lens - EF 400mm f/2.8L IS USM - Canon USA Consumer Products

Some Zooms:

EOS (SLR) Camera Systems - Ultra-Wide Zoom - Ultra-Wide Zoom - EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM - Canon USA Consumer Products

EOS (SLR) Camera Systems - Standard Zoom - Standard Zoom Lens - EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM - Canon USA Consumer Products

EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM II

 

[c.cloudwalker]

Either that ^^^^^^

or get a night vision set up. Like what the military uses. However it doesn't make for the most interesting photos.

 

[arnab_n]

thanks a lot for ur suggestions

 

[Josh220]

+1 for KMH's post.

Also, get a tripod!

 

[myfotoguy]

I agree, lenses with larger apertures will help.

It might depend though what kind of action you are talking about. Also, larger aperture will mean smaller DOF which may or may not become an issue (less in focus, requires more accurate focusing).

What you may discover (again, depending on what your doing exactly) is that a speedlight is necessary to help freeze the motion. Also, you can use modes such as slow-rear sync to help freeze the main subject and still capture a sense of motion. you can also balance the ambient and flash exposure to capture a particular mood. An on-board flash can be used for this, but it's much easier with a speedlight, which is also easier to use tools such as diffusers.

Again, it depends on what action your talking about exactly. When I hear night and motion I'm thinking basketball at night in the driveway with few lights, or a restaurant, or dance club. In those cases, a large aperture lens will help, but you may still need flash. The large aperture lens combined with flash gives you even more options.

 

[bennielou]

You need super fast glass. 2.8 or under.

 

[Sw1tchFX]

even 2.8 is slow compared to fast primes. Canon makes a 35 f/2 which is 'normal' on your rebel, than there's the 50 1.4 which is a good lens, when you get into ther f/1.4 and f/2 lenses, prices go way up.

 

[bennielou]

Hey switch my main lens, (that has it's own camera) is a 35 1.4.

 

[Alan92RTTT]

Also, you can use modes such as slow-rear sync to help freeze the main subject and still capture a sense of motion.

"slow-rear sync" what does this mean?

 

[myfotoguy]

Also, you can use modes such as slow-rear sync to help freeze the main subject and still capture a sense of motion.

"slow-rear sync" what does this mean?

Many cameras have a flash mode called this. You may be required to set the camera in aperture priority, shutter priority or manual to use it. The flash fires just before the shutter closes. That last burst of flash serves to "freeze" the subject where they are at that moment. Everything else is a stream of light leading up to the subject (if shutter speed is slow enough). It takes some practice, but you can get good effects.

The slow shutter setting helps to expose the ambient/background of the image while the flash fired at the end of the exposure "freezes" the subject where they are. Within reason. It depends on how fast the subject is moving, what your shutter speed is, and what your skills are. I often track with the subject when I use it.

EDIT TO ADD: On some cameras, the scene mode "Night Portrait" works similar (if you want to use an auto mode or if you have a point and shoot camera).

Examples where I used this for panning. You don't see trails behind the subjects, but the background is exposed and blurred do to me moving with the subject. You might be able to Google the term for examples where light trails behind (ie: A car tail lights):

Getting dark out, sun over the horizon in the bacground, 1/25 @ f/14 Slow-Rear Sync setting, speedlight in TTL-BL (balanced flash setting). I know, centered composition is not always ideal, but I do this when using this method often so I can track the subject easier. Also, since the motion of the swing is left to right and back again I felt it worked here.

Daylight in side window, used flash to get the effect, 1/20 @ f4 Slow-Rear Sync:

 

[Alan92RTTT]

ah, I recall reading about that. thanks.

 

[KmH]

Also, you can use modes such as slow-rear sync to help freeze the main subject and still capture a sense of motion.

"slow-rear sync" what does this mean?

In addition, see page 71 of your users manual.