Night film question

[Zaphod2319]

I plan on going to St Augustine next weekend to burn a roll of B&W Ilford PanfF 50. The correction I have read is shutter speed (^1.45).

So if I am factoring this correctly, a shutter speed of 30 seconds becomes 138 seconds. A shutter speed of 15 seconds becomes 50 seconds.

Does this sound correct? I have also read to add 10% shutter speed?

Internet pics of what I want to shoot.

Edited to remove copyrighted images. Please provide links to photos to which you do not hold rights.

 

[smarty62]

30 will become 158 and 15 will become 56.6. You may download the free app from Ilford to calculate the right exp. time. Ilford Reciprocity Calculator.
Hth, Gerhard

Gesendet von meinem SM-G930F mit Tapatalk

 

[dxqcanada]

Ilford says PanF+ is ^1.33 ... so 30s would be 92s
https://www.ilfordphoto.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Reciprocity-Failure-Compensation.pdf

 

[Zaphod2319]

Thank you. I got the correction factor on another site. 1.33 makes it easier for sure.

 

[webestang64]

I would still shoot several shots extra and bracket toward over exposure.

This shot of San Fran was 15 sec over the "correction factor".

 

[Zaphod2319]

Thanks, everything I have been reading says you will not be displeased going over, but you will going under. I suspect that is what adding 10% is about.

 

[dxqcanada]

Negs over ... slides under.

 

[ac12]

BRACKET.
When I shot film I would sometimes bracket +/- 5 stops from my target exposure. Yeah that burned a LOT of film.

The practical problems are:

1. Night shooting is artistic. Two people can have two very different ideas of what they want to capture, and thus two very different final exposures. So there is no ONE correct exposure. You do not know which exposure you will like better. It might be the over or the under exposed shot.
   
   1. Example, in your shots, I might want the building and grass to look darker. So I want less exposure.
2. The problem with lights is, too much exposure and you get a white blob, rather than a point of light. So I disagree with the statement "you will not be displeased going over, but you will going under." I would rather have point lights than a blob of white. But if you want the details in the building, then you have to accept that the lights will be blobs.

 

[Zaphod2319]

Definitely an artistic choice on what you want.

 

[limr]

I plan on going to St Augustine next weekend to burn a roll of B&W Ilford PanfF 50. The correction I have read is shutter speed (^1.45).

So if I am factoring this correctly, a shutter speed of 30 seconds becomes 138 seconds. A shutter speed of 15 seconds becomes 50 seconds.

Does this sound correct? I have also read to add 10% shutter speed?

Internet pics of what I want to shoot.

OP, are these your images?

 

[Zaphod2319]

I plan on going to St Augustine next weekend to burn a roll of B&W Ilford PanfF 50. The correction I have read is shutter speed (^1.45).

So if I am factoring this correctly, a shutter speed of 30 seconds becomes 138 seconds. A shutter speed of 15 seconds becomes 50 seconds.

Does this sound correct? I have also read to add 10% shutter speed?

Internet pics of what I want to shoot.

OP, are these your images?

No, I got them off the internet, put them there to help people visualize what I was preparing to shoot. It is a lot of lights.

 

[limr]

I plan on going to St Augustine next weekend to burn a roll of B&W Ilford PanfF 50. The correction I have read is shutter speed (^1.45).

So if I am factoring this correctly, a shutter speed of 30 seconds becomes 138 seconds. A shutter speed of 15 seconds becomes 50 seconds.

Does this sound correct? I have also read to add 10% shutter speed?

Internet pics of what I want to shoot.

OP, are these your images?

No, I got them off the internet, put them there to help people visualize what I was preparing to shoot. It is a lot of lights.

It's fine to find images to give examples of what you'd like to achieve, but if you don't hold the copyright, you can not embed the photos on the site. You should post links instead.

 

[ac12]

BRACKET.
When I shot film I would sometimes bracket +/- 5 stops from my target exposure. Yeah that burned a LOT of film.

The practical problems are:

1. Night shooting is artistic. Two people can have two very different ideas of what they want to capture, and thus two very different final exposures. So there is no ONE correct exposure. You do not know which exposure you will like better. It might be the over or the under exposed shot.
   1. Example, in your shots, I might want the building and grass to look darker. So I want less exposure.
2. The problem with lights is, too much exposure and you get a white blob, rather than a point of light. So I disagree with the statement "you will not be displeased going over, but you will going under." I would rather have point lights than a blob of white. But if you want the details in the building, then you have to accept that the lights will be blobs.

BTW, the other reason for bracketing . . . you won't know what you shot till you get the film back from the lab, weeks after the shoot. So you bracket to "play it safe."

 

[Michael Halberstadt]

I put together a spreadsheet with formulas for Ilford and Kentmere films HERE. With this you can input any time in one column and get the corrected time in another. You could copy this and input your own selection of times with corrections you anticipate needing- which is why I built the spreadsheet. I do long daylight exposures and put together a sunny 16 table for the films I use with various ND options for Kentmere films (you can see here if interested).

 

[Zaphod2319]

Thank you