(S.O.S Noob S.O.S)- Aluminum Pots & Pans Product Photography. Lighting Requirements

Juliecf75

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My employer was a bit impressed with my armature event photography and requested me to take photos of his Aluminum Pots & Pans inventory. I really would like to use what I have and not invest more money right now. I have a few books that I purchased and working on them..I have gone to my camera store but they are always trying to sell me everything.

Things I have to work with:

RPS Studio | 3-Umbrella Tungsten Lighting Kit | RS4083
Impact | 1 - Octacool-9 Fluorescent Light with Octabox
Canon Speedlight 430xll
Canon T31
Canon 18 - 55
Canon 50
Canon 75 - 300
Canon 24 – 105
Sekonic L – 308S

Here are my questions:

  1. Would I be able to get a good shot with the light kits that I already have.

  1. The light bulbs on the RPS Studio | 3-Umbrella Tungsten Lighting Kit | RS4083 blew out which bulbs do I buy to have the brightest light or to match my Octacool-9 Fluorescent Light with Octabox.

  1. I will use a seamless white paper backdrop. Should I use something else?

  1. What lenses do I use and setting?

  1. Any Ideas on the set up idea?

Please note I am doing my own homework….but I need insight from people that have made this happen with basic equipment. Please help.
Thes are my photos
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Also If I have to use a product box how big do I have to get it. I would like to make my own. I will send a box of candy to everyone who helps me! xoxo lol
 
OMG...REALLY...I am waiting for it to be shipped tomorrow ...I purchased it from Amazon. Will my kits be enough and what light bulbs do I buy??
 
This as well.
 
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Thank you soooooooooo much gryphonslair99 .. Hershey Milk Chocolate with Almonds!!!!!! In box where you want me to send lol lol Thanks 100000 lol lol lol
 
Thank you soooooooooo much gryphonslair99 .. Hershey Milk Chocolate with Almonds!!!!!! In box where you want me to send lol lol Thanks 100000 lol lol lol


Page 62 to 65 in the Light science and magic. your main problem is reflection so you are going less light longer shutter speed= soft pictures.

With highly reflective products you need control of the angle of light. < in other words I wouldn't use your photo tent.

After reading light science and magic you may op to use linear polarized film, I am in the middle of setting up to do this kind of photography.


polarized film http://www.polarization.com/polarshop/

I am waiting on my soft box. and hopefully it will be in today.

If you plan on doing a parallel polarized photography, Linear Polarized film is 17 inches wide, and that is narrow for most soft boxes.
Most narrow soft boxes are made for a strobe and not CFL constant florescent lighting .
In other words you may end up buying polarized film and a soft box that the film will cover.
This will make allot more sense to you after you read Light science and magic.
I would not buy or try anything until you have read the entire book.

One of my thoughts was to modify one of my cowboy CFL soft boxes and I still might. but the cowboy stands will not support any more weight. And I worry about safety hazard side of any thing that could start a fire.



Hopefully everything I have ordered will be in in the next few days. If so I will start posting pictures of my progress and maybe you can learn from my mistakes.
 
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Shinny stuff rule #1 - NEVER point a light at it.
 
Mixing types and colors of light might be o.k. for shiny metal, but it is extremely difficult to balance all those colors particularly when shooting live models.

I think you should use only one type of light, whether it's your flash, or the tungsten, or the fluorescents.

If you can see the light tent in the frame, it's not big enough.

Experiment some with the angle of your shots. i.e.: try a little lower.

As already written; don't use your built-in flash, and don't point it at the shiny metal. Get or make some really large reflectors or diffusers to modify the light.

I do eat candy, (too much, actually) so please don't send me any.
 
I face similar problems photographing firearms. I use two medium Chimera soft boxes with Speedotron strobes. I find often find myself bouncing light from the walls, ceiling, foam board, reflectors, etc.

I agree about reading the book first then experiment. I find photography, like many other things, is 10% theory and 90% practice.

A white bed sheet on the wall seems to soften light well. A polarizing setup is something I plan on experimenting with in the very near future. Speed is a big factor with me. I often get it as close as I can and then fix the hot spots in Lightroom or Photoshop.

Something to think about is reflectors. You

Here is an example of something shiny I commonly deal with. The hardest is a bright blue with a walnut stock(s).



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$S_W_27-2_N_-102.JPG

My shooting table is very simple. I use a 6' folding table. I built a frame to hold the background from 1 1/2" PVC pipe. I buy the background cloth from a fabric store across the street.

Remember, you are photographing what the metal is reflecting. You may want to try rigging some different color reflectors to give the pots some contrast. It is amazing what you can do with some foam board and a hot glue gun.




Good luck and keep us posted.

Roger
 
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I use a polarizer when doing shoots with reflective stuff. They help cut some of the glare. As for a setup, I'm not there 100% (I need to make a reflector), but what I use is an adaptation of what Gryphonslair posted.
 

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