Stars

For all practical photography purpose and DoF, all stars, including our sun, are at infinity.
Consequently there is no need to use a middle or smaller aperture to deepen the DoF.
By the same token a wide angle focal length like 20 mm has pretty deep DoF even when using a large aperture .
Whilst this is true, lenses show more aberations when fully open than when closed down a stop or two.
With longer lenses it can also be difficult to get the focus spot on infinity so the increased DOF can be useful to correct for slight misfocusing.

f/8 does seem excessively small for a 20mm focal length though.
 
Okay - so if f/8 isn't necessary for dof then perhaps I could have gotten a lower noise. Advice taken. Though I thought for sure someone told me before to try go go between f/8-f/11 for sharpness... is there any merit to that?

There are two great write ups/tutorials from members here on the forum. I saved them and refer to them often. Both are packed with great information.

By, Sw1tchFX. Shooting Night pictures of stars (and stuff) | Photography Forum

By, Manaheim Manaheim's Ultimate Guide to Night Photography | Photography Forum

.....

I am familiar with those tutorials. And I actually contributed to Manaheim's. xD But perhaps I should refresh my memory. Thanks!
 
Most of the milky way shots that I've seen that look awesome are taken pretty wide open. (f/2.8, 3.5, 4).

Just think how far away you are from the stars, the DOF shouldn't be an issue.
 
Okay - so if f/8 isn't necessary for dof then perhaps I could have gotten a lower noise. Advice taken. Though I thought for sure someone told me before to try go go between f/8-f/11 for sharpness... is there any merit to that?

There are two great write ups/tutorials from members here on the forum. I saved them and refer to them often. Both are packed with great information.

By, Sw1tchFX. Shooting Night pictures of stars (and stuff) | Photography Forum

By, Manaheim Manaheim's Ultimate Guide to Night Photography | Photography Forum

.....

I am familiar with those tutorials. And I actually contributed to Manaheim's. xD But perhaps I should refresh my memory. Thanks!

Oops, I didn't realize that you had seen those threads before. They are my go to references here on TPF. Having seen what you posted and noticing that you didn't use a wide opened aperture (which is stated in both Sw1tchFX and Manaheim's threads) I figured that I would let you know that they are out there and are great references for astrophotography.
FWIW, I shoot with my lenses wide opened when doing astrophotography. There is obviously less noise which makes for a sharper image. I think the idea for those who choose to shoot closer to f8 is simply because the common opinion out there is that most lenses perform better two stops or so from wide open.
I actually just shot, IMO, a beautiful photo of Sagittarius and printed it out on my 13X19 photo paper and am hanging it on the wall in my office. It turned out really well.
 
[/QUOTE]

Oops, I didn't realize that you had seen those threads before. They are my go to references here on TPF. Having seen what you posted and noticing that you didn't use a wide opened aperture (which is stated in both Sw1tchFX and Manaheim's threads) I figured that I would let you know that they are out there and are great references for astrophotography....

[/QUOTE]

Yeah, it was a long time ago that I checked them out, and I didn't finish reading. I will have to go do that.
 
How's this?
 

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Did you do any noise reduction on that one in post?





youtube has a LOT of good videos on post production of just about anything you want.
 
Did you do any noise reduction on that one in post?





youtube has a LOT of good videos on post production of just about anything you want.


Yeah, I actually did do some noise reduction. Why?
 
F8 is way too small. Stop down all the way, unless you have a 1.8 or 1.4, then you can get away with an f2 or 2.8. You will get better results at a higher ISO and shorter shutter speed (unless you want trails), and use some noise reduction software. There is really no way to get these shots tuned in without doing a good bit of PP.

I have the new nikon 20mm 1.8 and have been playing around with it. The results I am getting at 1.8 are as good as any. My best setting were something like ISO1600-2500, f2, 10-13 seconds. If the milky way is present, the 1.8 really brings it out. I would probably stop down a few if I had some sort of foreground subject.

Also, infinity is not infinity on most lenses, you have to use live view to find that exact focus point.
 
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Okay - so if f/8 isn't necessary for dof then perhaps I could have gotten a lower noise. Advice taken. Though I thought for sure someone told me before to try go go between f/8-f/11 for sharpness... is there any merit to that?

Technically yes, but with star shots the shorter shutter speed will give you more of a sharpness advantage.
 
I just got back from shooting stars like 10mins ago.
This was at 640 ISO (I try not to go above that unless i really need too.)2X8C3484.jpg
 
F8 is way too small. Stop down all the way, unless you have a 1.8 or 1.4, then you can get away with an f2 or 2.8. You will get better results at a higher ISO and shorter shutter speed (unless you want trails), and use some noise reduction software. There is really no way to get these shots tuned in without doing a good bit of PP.

I have the new nikon 20mm 1.8 and have been playing around with it. The results I am getting at 1.8 are as good as any. My best setting were something like ISO1600-2500, f2, 10-13 seconds. If the milky way is present, the 1.8 really brings it out. I would probably stop down a few if I had some sort of foreground subject.

Also, infinity is not infinity on most lenses, you have to use live view to find that exact focus point.

I think I was a bit wider than that for my latest one!
 

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