Anyone tried HC 110 from the new, 1l. bottle already ?

[timor]

Is this the same stuff like before ? Has different colour, maybe a bit less thickness and doesn't work in my normal dilution as expected. Is this the European version ? Made in Germany "For sale in USA" says the label.

 

[timor]

I guess no one did. Be careful guys, new HC 110 might be bit of surprise. Unpleasant.

 

[webestang64]

I have yet to try it. I don't use 110 that much, last month I gave a co-worker a few powder packs of HC 110 I had.
I use D-76 or X-Tol mostly.

If the pack says "For sale in USA" that means it has a US warranty and should be fresh stuff, all others are called "import" or "gray market", no US warranty and usually not fresh.

 

[Derrel]

I have not bought any HC-110 in ages, but I did use it for years, and found that measuring it out and rinsing the measuring graduate was always a critical,critical step. As I understand it, some people have taken to using a syringe to meter out the required 1/4 oz to 1/2 oz needed for smaller developing tanks. I always used a small graduated cylinder and rinsed it four times, to ensure that all of the "syrup" was rinsed out of the measuring graduate and added to the working developer. A few years back, Kodak re-tabulated some of their recommended starting times, and I've heard MULTIPLE people refer to the new times for HC-110 as being too brief. SO, I'm not sure what exact issues you've encountered, but there is always plenty of room for oddball variables that can mess things up!

 

[compur]

Is this the same stuff like before ? Has different colour, maybe a bit less thickness and doesn't work in my normal dilution as expected. Is this the European version ? Made in Germany "For sale in USA" says the label.

Made in Germany? That explains it. They probably used beer instead of water.

 

[timor]

Is this the same stuff like before ? Has different colour, maybe a bit less thickness and doesn't work in my normal dilution as expected. Is this the European version ? Made in Germany "For sale in USA" says the label.

Made in Germany? That explains it. They probably used beer instead of water.

I am afraid you are close to the truth. What I've got in this bottle is rather a beer concentrate and not a HC 110. Everything is different together with a weak developing action. It doesn't work like the good, old American product. Looks, like it has less developing agents.

 

[Josh66]

I haven't used it yet, but in a 1L bottle, I'd think it almost had to be the European version.

What volume of working solution does the bottle make? That will tell you pretty quickly if it's the European or American version...

(It wouldn't surprise me if they decided to only make one version of it now, and if it's being made in Europe, it makes sense that it would be the European version.)

 

[timor]

Info on the label on the bottle is for USA version.

 

[compur]

I haven't tried it but Freestyle sells what they say is an equivalent developer to HC110: link

"Note that LegacyPro L110 does not have the same yellow color or viscosity as Kodak HC110."

 

[timor]

I haven't tried it but Freestyle sells what they say is an equivalent developer to HC110: link

"Note that LegacyPro L110 does not have the same yellow color or viscosity as Kodak HC110."

Interesting.
I am testing this:
Kodak HC110 Film Developer 1L | Freestyle Photographic Supplies
Not happy so far, for sure not the same developing power as original, American production. Looking for reason for that. Maybe it is my tap water fault.

 

[Josh66]

Maybe it is my tap water fault.

I had "issues" (under-development) a year or two ago that I could never get to the bottom of. Switched to distilled water for everything and I haven't had a problem since.

The only thing I use tap water for is the wash after fixing (followed by a final rinse in distilled water).

That might not be your issue, but try it and see if it changes anything.

 

[timor]

Maybe it is my tap water fault.

I had "issues" (under-development) a year or two ago that I could never get to the bottom of. Switched to distilled water for everything and I haven't had a problem since.

The only thing I use tap water for is the wash after fixing (followed by a final rinse in distilled water).

That might not be your issue, but try it and see if it changes anything.

Never have had any problems with my tap water so far. It is possible, that use of components from different sources may cause the new HC 110 to work with my water differently. But, as it turns out Kodak lists smaller developing capacity per litre of working solution. Another thing is the glycol used by Tetenal, it is of visibly lower viscosity, than original, Rochester product. But glycol doesn't play any role in developing action, but in preservation of the concentrate. Durability of the new stuff is still a question for the next 5 years (?) . Apparently Freestyle sales Legacy Pro L110 developer, yet another copy of HC110 and yet with even less viscosity and no yellow colour.
LegacyPro L110 B&W Liquid Film Developer 1 Pint to Make 2 Gallons | Freestyle Photographic Supplies
Off course I can make this stuff to work to my liking, it works after all. The only my consern at this point is the ratio of developing agents to the rest of ingredients, basically it influence on contrast, grain and acutancy. (Pretty much everything, what's matters .)

 

[timor]

Third attempt is a success. Sort of. 25% more of concentrate was used, from 6 to 7.5ml. Negative out of the tank looks promising. Good compensation. I hope print will look as good.

 

[timor]

Prints are not bad from that negative.
So in conclusion just a warning to first try, before committing important film to that new HC110.

 

[ann]

I have some on order, as we use it in our school lab.

I have also used it for over 30 years, and can remember when Kodak made changes in trix a few years ago and listed the times "incorrectly" (customer service told me so) anyway, we just continued to use the old times for Tri x and it was fine