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Aperture question

In this instance, the tree was certainly not close enough for good old DOF to work its magic.

There's another little technique which will help maximize background blur. Focus on the nearer object that you wish to have in sharp focus. Then use the distance scale on the lens barrel to transfer that distance to the further distance of the DOF lines on the barrel for the f-stop you're using. That, coupled with a wide lens opening, will help get the dog walked.
 
To add to Torus' comment. Find the DOF lines on the lens barrel that correspond to your aperture. Set the symbol for infinity just beyond the space between those lines. Bear in mind, though, that that far out, you just might smerge 200 feet right along with infinity.
 
The focal length of my lens is 35-70mm. I was using my Nikon FM-2.
 
That's still a lot of various FLs. It would be nice to know what FL you were using.
 
That's still a lot of various FLs. It would be nice to know what FL you were using.

More specifically? I'm bad at taking notes (I'm going to start with my next new roll!). All I did was look at the tree through the lens, zoom in on it till it gave a nice framed shot, and then took the photo. Playing with the camera right now, I'm guessing I was roughly in the 55-60mm area.
 
wheres the pic?
 
DOF calculator says that with a full frame (35mm), f/3.6, 55mm, to get a DOF that ends at about 200 feet away and everything beyond that begins to go out of focus, you'd need to focus on something about 64 feet away from you.

I use digital laser distance measuring tools (rangefinders) for stuff like that. You use it to get the actual distance to the tree, then use the DOF calculator, then laser distance to an object where you need to be focused to get the DOF you want.
 
DOF calculator says that with a full frame (35mm), f/3.6, 55mm, to get a DOF that ends at about 200 feet away and everything beyond that begins to go out of focus, you'd need to focus on something about 64 feet away from you.

I use digital laser distance measuring tools (rangefinders) for stuff like that. You use it to get the actual distance to the tree, then use the DOF calculator, then laser distance to an object where you need to be focused to get the DOF you want.
Good luck with focusing 55mm lens on such a distance. Maybe coupling antiaircraft rangefinder with the camera would help ?:bek113:
 
DOF calculator says that with a full frame (35mm), f/3.6, 55mm, to get a DOF that ends at about 200 feet away and everything beyond that begins to go out of focus, you'd need to focus on something about 64 feet away from you.

I use digital laser distance measuring tools (rangefinders) for stuff like that. You use it to get the actual distance to the tree, then use the DOF calculator, then laser distance to an object where you need to be focused to get the DOF you want.
Good luck with focusing 55mm lens on such a distance. Maybe coupling antiaircraft rangefinder with the camera would help ?:bek113:
He focused on the tree at 200 feet away. Why couldn't he focus on an object 64 feet away?
 
DOF calculator says that with a full frame (35mm), f/3.6, 55mm, to get a DOF that ends at about 200 feet away and everything beyond that begins to go out of focus, you'd need to focus on something about 64 feet away from you.

I use digital laser distance measuring tools (rangefinders) for stuff like that. You use it to get the actual distance to the tree, then use the DOF calculator, then laser distance to an object where you need to be focused to get the DOF you want.
Good luck with focusing 55mm lens on such a distance. Maybe coupling antiaircraft rangefinder with the camera would help ?:bek113:
He focused on the tree at 200 feet away. Why couldn't he focus on an object 64 feet away?
I want to see that lens. And that camera.
 
DOF calculator says that with a full frame (35mm), f/3.6, 55mm, to get a DOF that ends at about 200 feet away and everything beyond that begins to go out of focus, you'd need to focus on something about 64 feet away from you.

I use digital laser distance measuring tools (rangefinders) for stuff like that. You use it to get the actual distance to the tree, then use the DOF calculator, then laser distance to an object where you need to be focused to get the DOF you want.
Good luck with focusing 55mm lens on such a distance. Maybe coupling antiaircraft rangefinder with the camera would help ?:bek113:
He focused on the tree at 200 feet away. Why couldn't he focus on an object 64 feet away?
I want to see that lens. And that camera.
He said it's a 35-70mm on a Nikon FM2. So why can't that lens and camera be focused on something 64 ft away?
 
Pray tell... how do you know you're focused at 64 feet on that lens? It's somewhere between the marks for 15 feet and infinity. But let the rest of us cretins know how to do so without somehow focusing at 135 feet or 32.338 feet or 1,732¼ feet.
 
More to the point, dof calculators are no good at telling you what 'out of focus' will look like.

In this context the mountains are going to look 'kinda soft' but not blurred out, if you do what buckster (and before that, I) suggested.

The OP might find that satisfactory but that is not my impression.
 
It is only small format. At 10 times enlargement everything gonna look kind of soft. Even faster, if OP used TX or HP5 and develop in something like D76. Did he use a tripod ? MLU ? Wait, FM2 doesn't have it. Point is, that shakes may have influence which might be mistaken for focusing or processing problems. Anyway at the distance of 64 and 1000 feet the CoC are very much of the same size with 55 mm lens (or 70 for that matter) so basically everything past 30 feet mark will be equality sharp or unsharp in the frame. One gonna have to enlarge it 15 to 20 times to stert to see the difference. (If the quality of the film will be good enough).
 
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