Auto-rig tube flex issue

[freeze3kgt]

Not an engineer but.. could you run another tube and suction it to the bottom of the front bumper somewhere to make a Triangle type effect to help with up and down movement?

EDIT** IM SORRY HECTOR111 ..i was not paying attention to that

 

[Hector111]

That's actually my image, the cars were being driven that day, at around 15-20 mph.
There was some bounce to the camera but it was minimal.
O/P, I don't want to come off as a prick or anything, but I would have appreciated it if :

©Copyright
All my photographic images are copyright. All rights are reserved. Do not use, copy or edit any of my photographs without my written permission.
If you want to use my photo for private use, please contact me.
:thumbup:

 

[GeneralBenson]

Hector, how did you know the image was on here? I would love to be as aware of who is likely using my photos. Thanks.

 

[Hector111]

Hector, how did you know the image was on here? I would love to be as aware of who is likely using my photos. Thanks.

Well I was getting tired of people just taking crap with out asking. There's a nifty little feature in flickr called "view your stats" which you have to manually enable; I can pretty much see where everyone who is looking at my pictures is literally viewing from. So I just frequent it once a day and see where my stuff is going. I just hit send on an email to wikipedia for the same thing.

Also, I have made sure now all of my images are marked "all rights reserved" as much as possible on the descriptions and licensing permissions to hopefully prevent this from happening again.

 

[RONDAL]

hector;

I apologize, and i've edited my original post.

I'll shoot you a flickr mail as I actually have you on there and i think vortex as well.

 

[Village Idiot]

holy moly....could this be the first real beyond basics question in a while?

Seriously! This section needs way more moderating. It's become way too saturated with posts that aren't remotely advanced. I think the BTB forum should be intermediate, since that is sort of what the name would suggest, and then there should been an Advanced forum that is heavily moderated. The trend I see is that as people become more serious and knowledgeable photographers, they leave this board because there is no place for advanced shooters to talk and discuss with other advanced shooters without noobery being introduced.

Sorry for the thread jack. We will now be returning to you regularly scheduled thread.

I think you shouldn't leave it up to the forum user to decide if their question is too basic or not. That only leaves room for error vs. different classifications like Equipment, Technique, lighting, etc...

 

[Village Idiot]

So...how about a Nikon with Active VR enabled??? That's designed for shooting from a moving platform, with a VR sampling frequency of 1000 hertz, according to Nikon: that should allow you to get down to some very,very slow shutter speeds with almost perfect cancellation of the vibrations. Something like the new 16-35mm f/4 VR-II lens would be the absolute widest lens I can think of that can cover FF or DX. I don't know if you shoot Canon or Nikon or Pentax or what, but I have been able to get some pretty good hand-held shots as slow as 1/3 second with my old 70-200 VR using ACTIVE mode VR, which is a tip I was taught by somebody---the theory being that Active VR is designed for a camera platform that is moving/vibrating, and a creaky human body at 1/3 second hand-holding a telephoto is, in essence, a "moving platform", if you know what I mean.

I'm thinking if you were to use two guy wires, like say stainless steel fishing wire from say the Malin tournament grade #12 wire (.029" thickness) which is 180 pound test, you could paint it with green chroma key paint and it would knock out very easily in post production, and you could use two guy wires to stabilize the pole, or maybe even three wires, one in front, one in the rear, and one over the top of the car's roof...

VR won't really do much if you're shooting that wide from the end of a bouncing pole. The movement is going to be a lot more sudden and wider range than say if you're hand holding the camera.

**edit**


I'm using 2 manfrotto Avenger F1000 suctions, 3 super clamps, and a magic arm.
i've also got 12' of 1.250" aluminum tubing, with wall thickness of 0.058".

When i tested it at the metal shop the flex wasn't that apparent, but now that im testing stuff before going live im getting a TON of pole flex. once i load the end of the pole with the magic arm, super clamp, d90 and wide angle, and amount of bounce in tube is unbearable.

im not getting any sharp images, even when pushing gently on flat ground.

Does anyone have any advice for how to stiffen this up?

I realize i COULD go carbon fibre, but thats like $800 for tubing and im not dropping that yet.

ive been reading all over the place and am looking for suggestions. Whatever the solution, i need it to be portable.

I haven't tried my setup yet as people keep flaking on me, but I have either a 1 3/4" or 2" aluminum pole. I realize it's heavier than the thinner one, but it's also a lot more sturdier.

Along with that, a lot of techniques I've read say to take a picture of the car while it's stationary to use with a picture of the car while it's moving and blend them together where needed.

 

[RONDAL]

yeah i tested last night and there is some tweaks i need to make. one of which is under exposing stuff at a different setting stationary so that i can blend later on when its slightly blown out.

bounce sucks.

i might have to spend more $$$ on a larger diamter and thicker pole.