Bikes & Blight in Detroit

[jcdeboever]

Nikon FM, 35mm f/2D, TMax 100, HC 110 (B) developed at 400 (11.5min). Finished my experiment with TMax. It has a pretty high acutance, similar to Acros. I noticed that the film scratch's way easier and seems to attract more dust. Could be my environment but I haven't had this issue at all with Acros or TriX and using same procedure. I really dig the 35mm F/2D

These pics are details from various installations in the sculpture garden, at MBAD African Bead Museum, Detroit, MI. I am working on a personal project for friends and family. This was right in my backyard growing up on the inner cities, east side. However, it was non existent back in my youth. IMO, this is a bright spot in the midst of serious decay, blight, and poverty. It's almost as if the city has forgot about the area surrounding the block of Grand River and West Grand Blvd. If interested, more info here... Our Story

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[Cortian]

Wish I'd had a camera with me back in my paintball-playing days. Abandoned building owners would rent us time to play in their buildings. Even played in the abandoned Packard plant a few times.

Big, hulking abandoned machinery... and some of the other things you saw in those buildings...

 

[jcdeboever]

Wish I'd had a camera with me back in my paintball-playing days. Abandoned building owners would rent us time to play in their buildings. Even played in the abandoned Packard plant a few times.


Big, hulking abandoned machinery... and some of the other things you saw in those buildings...

Yup, I've been in there. Up to no good as I recall.

 

[smoke665]

While not a fan of the composition, I can definitely see an improvement in both your film shooting skills and developing skills

 

[jcdeboever]

While not a fan of the composition, I can definitely see an improvement in both your film shooting skills and developing skills

Thanks. Yes, a lot going on but considering that, I actually thought carefully on it's composition. I really thought about what I wanted the viewer to see, then found it, then looked at edges of frame. Light was consideration as well.

 

[jcdeboever]

@smoke665 . 11.5 minutes. Pre wash @20°. Slow agitation for first 30s. Then 2 inversions every two minutes. Vinegar water stop bath for 1 minute. Rapid fix for 5 minutes, 30s intial agitation. 2 agitation every 2 minutes. 10 minute wash with 4 agitations. Final wash with water and drop off dish soap. Finger squeegee. Dry for a couple hours. V800 scan at 2400 DPI using Epson software.

 

[smoke665]

@jcdeboever back in the day I wasn't as precise as you, but when you've got a dozen or so rolls to process and print, before you're ready to go to press at 5 am and it's already after midnight, you tend to be less demanding.

 

[espresso2x]

@smoke665 . 11.5 minutes. Pre wash @20°. Slow agitation for first 30s. Then 2 inversions every two minutes. Vinegar water stop bath for 1 minute. Rapid fix for 5 minutes, 30s intial agitation. 2 agitation every 2 minutes. 10 minute wash with 4 agitations. Final wash with water and drop off dish soap. Finger squeegee. Dry for a couple hours. V800 scan at 2400 DPI using Epson software.

Same method i'd use except i don't pre wash and i'd use the Ilford wash method instead of '10 minutes...'

 

[timor]

Hi. To me way too much contrast. Pushing flat grain is not without risks. Especially in HC110 solution B.
When comes to scratches, your film is a new, Alaris product ? Or still the old one, real, American TMax ?

 

[jcdeboever]

Hi. To me way too much contrast. Pushing flat grain is not without risks. Especially in HC110 solution B.
When comes to scratches, your film is a new, Alaris product ? Or still the old one, real, American TMax ?

I have no clue. I know I don't care for it. It's sharp but don't like it in HC110. Probably would work better in D76 or something else. I won't buy it again, I accidentally bought it a couple years ago and decided to use it up. Probably could post edit it for more tonal range.

 

[timor]

Hi. To me way too much contrast. Pushing flat grain is not without risks. Especially in HC110 solution B.
When comes to scratches, your film is a new, Alaris product ? Or still the old one, real, American TMax ?

I have no clue. I know I don't care for it. It's sharp but don't like it in HC110. Probably would work better in D76 or something else. I won't buy it again, I accidentally bought it a couple years ago and decided to use it up. Probably could post edit it for more tonal range.

I know this attitude ! Old photographers, accustomed to TriX were saying the same. TMax 100 is a top shelf film, but like everything not digital requires love in handling. Anyway, some time ago I gave you recipe how to do it. With TMax 100 and TX and others. HC100 is an excellent developer, but not the way proposed by Kodak. Solution B the shortest way to kill HC110.

 

[jcdeboever]

Hi. To me way too much contrast. Pushing flat grain is not without risks. Especially in HC110 solution B.
When comes to scratches, your film is a new, Alaris product ? Or still the old one, real, American TMax ?

I have no clue. I know I don't care for it. It's sharp but don't like it in HC110. Probably would work better in D76 or something else. I won't buy it again, I accidentally bought it a couple years ago and decided to use it up. Probably could post edit it for more tonal range.

I know this attitude ! Old photographers, accustomed to TriX were saying the same. TMax 100 is a top shelf film, but like everything not digital requires love in handling. Anyway, some time ago I gave you recipe how to do it. With TMax 100 and TX and others. HC100 is an excellent developer, but not the way proposed by Kodak. Solution B the shortest way to kill HC110.

Refresh, I didn't write it down, or link your recommendation. I scoured through my journal and didn't see it. I apologise, I seem to recall wanting to write it down but probably got side tracked I considered H formula and a D76 1:1. I am still very new to all this. I've been trying mainly to be consistent with an occasional twist. I started out all over the place and had to regroup. I am developing Acros tonight, my go to 100. TMax is WAY different than Acros or TriX. I was very shocked at the negatives coming out of soapy soup....I almost cried.... To be honest.

 

[timor]

Hi. To me way too much contrast. Pushing flat grain is not without risks. Especially in HC110 solution B.
When comes to scratches, your film is a new, Alaris product ? Or still the old one, real, American TMax ?

I have no clue. I know I don't care for it. It's sharp but don't like it in HC110. Probably would work better in D76 or something else. I won't buy it again, I accidentally bought it a couple years ago and decided to use it up. Probably could post edit it for more tonal range.

I know this attitude ! Old photographers, accustomed to TriX were saying the same. TMax 100 is a top shelf film, but like everything not digital requires love in handling. Anyway, some time ago I gave you recipe how to do it. With TMax 100 and TX and others. HC100 is an excellent developer, but not the way proposed by Kodak. Solution B the shortest way to kill HC110.

Refresh, I didn't write it down, or link your recommendation. I scoured through my journal and didn't see it. I apologise, I seem to recall wanting to write it down but probably got side tracked I considered H formula and a D76 1:1. I am still very new to all this. I've been trying mainly to be consistent with an occasional twist. I started out all over the place and had to regroup. I am developing Acros tonight, my go to 100. TMax is WAY different than Acros or TriX. I was very shocked at the negatives coming out of soapy soup....I almost cried.... To be honest.

Oh boy. I gonna find that thread. It is not just a few sentences. Give me a moment.

 

[jcdeboever]

Hi. To me way too much contrast. Pushing flat grain is not without risks. Especially in HC110 solution B.
When comes to scratches, your film is a new, Alaris product ? Or still the old one, real, American TMax ?

I have no clue. I know I don't care for it. It's sharp but don't like it in HC110. Probably would work better in D76 or something else. I won't buy it again, I accidentally bought it a couple years ago and decided to use it up. Probably could post edit it for more tonal range.

I know this attitude ! Old photographers, accustomed to TriX were saying the same. TMax 100 is a top shelf film, but like everything not digital requires love in handling. Anyway, some time ago I gave you recipe how to do it. With TMax 100 and TX and others. HC100 is an excellent developer, but not the way proposed by Kodak. Solution B the shortest way to kill HC110.

Refresh, I didn't write it down, or link your recommendation. I scoured through my journal and didn't see it. I apologise, I seem to recall wanting to write it down but probably got side tracked I considered H formula and a D76 1:1. I am still very new to all this. I've been trying mainly to be consistent with an occasional twist. I started out all over the place and had to regroup. I am developing Acros tonight, my go to 100. TMax is WAY different than Acros or TriX. I was very shocked at the negatives coming out of soapy soup....I almost cried.... To be honest.

Oh boy. I gonna find that thread. It is not just a few sentences. Give me a moment.

Again, I am sorry. I travel a lot and almost, always write notes. Being mobile presents challenges for me as Im mostly spot on, occasionally, it gets away from me. No worries if you don't, my bad.

 

[timor]

Hi. To me way too much contrast. Pushing flat grain is not without risks. Especially in HC110 solution B.
When comes to scratches, your film is a new, Alaris product ? Or still the old one, real, American TMax ?

I have no clue. I know I don't care for it. It's sharp but don't like it in HC110. Probably would work better in D76 or something else. I won't buy it again, I accidentally bought it a couple years ago and decided to use it up. Probably could post edit it for more tonal range.

I know this attitude ! Old photographers, accustomed to TriX were saying the same. TMax 100 is a top shelf film, but like everything not digital requires love in handling. Anyway, some time ago I gave you recipe how to do it. With TMax 100 and TX and others. HC100 is an excellent developer, but not the way proposed by Kodak. Solution B the shortest way to kill HC110.

Refresh, I didn't write it down, or link your recommendation. I scoured through my journal and didn't see it. I apologise, I seem to recall wanting to write it down but probably got side tracked I considered H formula and a D76 1:1. I am still very new to all this. I've been trying mainly to be consistent with an occasional twist. I started out all over the place and had to regroup. I am developing Acros tonight, my go to 100. TMax is WAY different than Acros or TriX. I was very shocked at the negatives coming out of soapy soup....I almost cried.... To be honest.

Oh boy. I gonna find that thread. It is not just a few sentences. Give me a moment.

Got it. It is here:
Wintereinbruch (onset of winter)