D7200 AF points

Coleman121

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Hi guys,

I've been shooting with my D7200 for a few months now at 9 AF focus points. At the time I didn't think much of it, but now I've come to try and realise what I should be using. I can choose Auto (though I'd never use this of course), 3D, Single AF point, 9, 21, or 51 AF points. Though I understand the basics of this, I never really found out what most people use or what's best to use. I like to shoot different styles, from landscapes, wildlife, close ups, portrait's, sports, etc.

Should I be using single point AF? Do photographers keep their AF area mode on one setting? What do you use?
 
I switch my AF points to suit what it is I am shooting, a lot of the time I use single point, a rarely use Auto/3D and occasionally use groups. I'm sure there's a section in the Nikon Manuals on AF Modes and examples of what / when they may be beneficial.

Nikon AF Area Modes
 
I use AF-C and 9pt about 100% of the time, roughly.
 
Hi guys,

I've been shooting with my D7200 for a few months now at 9 AF focus points. At the time I didn't think much of it, but now I've come to try and realise what I should be using. I can choose Auto (though I'd never use this of course), 3D, Single AF point, 9, 21, or 51 AF points. Though I understand the basics of this, I never really found out what most people use or what's best to use. I like to shoot different styles, from landscapes, wildlife, close ups, portrait's, sports, etc.

Should I be using single point AF? Do photographers keep their AF area mode on one setting? What do you use?

I change depending on what I'm shooting. AF-S for still subjects and AF-C for moving subjects. I don't use AF-A. For still subjects I use a single point, for moving subjects I choose 9, 21, or 51 points depending on how big the subject(s) is(are). I don't use 3D mode.
 
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I use AF-C single or group depending
 
I use a single focus point for still subjects but I move it around depending on the composition. For moving subjects, I use 9 points and continiuous AF. I never use more because the extra focus points can pick up things I don't want to focus on and ruin the shot.
 
AF-S most of the time, AF-C for sports.
AF single point, dynamic 9.

As with others, my choice of AF point mode is driven by what I shoot.
I shoot a lot of high school sports, so I have to be able to pick out the ONE person in a group of players. This means SINGLE POINT AF.
Example, I have to be able to pick out the quarterback or whoever has the ball, in the mass of players. And the QB is behind his line, so I usually have a bunch of players between the QB and me.​

So, YOU have to determine, based on what and how YOU shoot, which mode works best FOR YOU.
You do have to study the manual to understand how each mode works.
Example in the case of the Canon T7i, the zone/area AF uses "closest subject" logic, to determine what/who to focus on in the zone/area. The problem is, in the high school sports that I shoot and advise on, that will result in many/most of the pictures being focused on the WRONG player, because the closest subject/player may NOT be my subject. This makes the Canon zone/area AF mode not usable, in my case.​
Then experiment with the various modes to find out how each behaves and if that works or does not work for you.
Example, I thought 3D focusing would work for tennis, as there is only one player on that side of the court. But 3D focusing would many times focus on the lines on the tennis court, instead of the player. :confused:
Here is an interesting wrinkle of meter and AF mode.
I sometimes shoot with meter in CenterWeight mode and AF in single point-dynamic 9.
BUT . . . I set the single point AF point to be 1 AF point ABOVE the center.
This forces the CW meter to meter below the AF point.
Application, shooting football on the sidelines.
On the sidelines, I am shooting ACROSS the field, not down onto the field.
With center AF point, and normal metering, I would be metering the background beyond the field, which could be in very different lighting. Example, at night, the background is BLACK or close to it. The meter will then meter the dark background and overexpose the players on the field.
By metering below the AF point, I force the meter to meter the field.
But this fails when I am shooting cross-field (at night), as then I am shooting so flat that I am metering the center of the field, and not the dimmer field at the sidelines and end zone.​
 
Here's the best $29 you could possibly spend on instruction and understanding: Nikon D7200 Guide | DSLRBodies | Thom Hogan

Check out 9- and 21-point AF in AF-C.

Read the manual.

Learn why Lock-on is Japanese English, and means exactly the _opposite_ of what most native English speakers think that means, so if you have that set up wrongly, you'll never get the kind of AF tracking or AF performance that the camera is capable of. Lock-on set to Fast means that it will shift, fast!, from what it is following, to new targets that "pop up" as the camera tracks action of animals or people...

Many,many people do not understand how 3-D, distance-aware, and color-aware focusing and light metering actually work. Many people do not understand the concept of using the 4-way controller (the thumb-operated button on the back) to select the _initial_ focusing target when trying to follow action.

The subject of autofocusing is complex, and involved, and there is a TON of misinformation available, all over the web and the 'net. That is why I am suggesting that you buy the Thom Hogan guide to your camera; advanced advice, in plain, American English.
 

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