Does METERING matter??

[MohaimenK]

If you set ISO, Aperture, shutter speed already in M mode or in any other mode, does metring the scene matter? I thought it did and now I'm told differently by someone else.

I thought regardless, if you have extremely bright background switching to spot metering of partial metering will significanly help with the background being over blown as the camera is trying to meter the subject in front.

 

[Robin Usagani]

If you set ISO, aperture, and shutter speed.. you are in M mode. Changing metering system wont do crap. It just tell you where 18% should be! Doesnt mean you have to set it there!

 

[Big Mike]

When you are in manual, do you adjust your settings to get the 'needle' to the middle ---0---?
If so, you are getting the same exposure that you would get in the auto modes.
That is not always (some would say 'rarely') the best choice for your exposure.

If not, then what do you do and why do you do it? There is where metering comes in.

 

[c.cloudwalker]

NO! Don't worry about it. Just fix it all in PS.

 

[MohaimenK]

I see Mike, so if I am shooting M mode, doesn't really matter what metering mode I use does it?

 

[Aayria]

Metering is crucial if you're trying to get good SOOC's. Don't forget that trying to "fix" an incorrect exposure in processing will only make noise and other issues worse. If you aim to get exposure and WB right in camera it will really help the final image.

But putting the needle on "0" isn't always the correct exposure. If you're in spot metering, it can change drastically depending on which point you metered from. And don't forget about the other metering modes... Matrix is great for landscapes and shots where the frame has a lot of contrasting lights to darks to consider.

 

[Robin Usagani]

If you set your aperture, shutterspeed and ISO already.. doesnt matter what metering you are on, you will get the same result! Your exposure metering tick mark will be at different spot.. but thats just a guide!

 

[gsgary]

I see Mike, so if I am shooting M mode, doesn't really matter what metering mode I use does it?

Of coarse it does, you still need to decide which to use,spot, partial because how does the camera know what you want metering

 

[Big Mike]

I see Mike, so if I am shooting M mode, doesn't really matter what metering mode I use does it?

It depends whether or nor you are using the camera's meter or not. For example, if you are adjusting the settings to get to ---0--- or even something close to that (using it as a reference), say +1 for example...then yes, it does matter which metering mode you use...because the metering mode you use, can affect where the needle will be on the scale.

If you are using another method of metering, like a hand held meter, or just guessing/knowing what to use, only then does the metering mode not matter.

I guess we should also mention a 'new' method of metering...chimping. Take the shot, then check the exposure on the camera's screen (preferably using the histogram), then adjust your exposure and shoot again.

 

[Robin Usagani]

If he changed anything to get to 0 then he changed either his aperture, shutterspeed, or ISO. That was not the question. The question is... if the ISO, Aperture, and shutter speed have been set, does changing metering does anything? The answer is of course not.

 

[pgriz]

Well, there's camera metering (reflected), and external metering (incident & flash). Personally, I find the most pleasing shots are ones where I gave higher value to the external meter reading. We all know (hopefully), that the meters are calibrated to assume the scene averages to the equivalent of 18% grey. If the scene is filled with dark stuff, then the meter reading will give overexposure, and if it is filled with bright or light-coloured stuff, then the reading will give underexposure. The incident light reading does not care about the light qualities of the scene - only the intensity of the source light(s), and setting the exposure according to the incident light reading allows a more "natural" view of the scene. Of course, if the detail you want is either buried in the shadow areas or in the bright bits, you will need to adjust the exposure to bring those closer to the center.

I have my camera set in spot-meter mode, which I use to check the brightness/darkness values compared to the reading I get using the incident light meter. If the detail is more than two stops away from the incident reading, then I have to make a decision about which parts of the image I MUST have properly exposed, and which I would allow to either blow out or block up.

 

[gsgary]

He does not say whether he has metered the scene correctly, you have to set it first to get the exposure you want

 

[ghache]

I always try a shot at whats the camera meetering tells me to set my camera at. Then i set it to get the desired effect especialy outdoor if not using flash. You could not bother with the mettering but imo you should use it to get a baseline shot to quickly have a setting

When using flash in studio, you shouldnt have to worry about meetering since you should set your camera at the lowest iso you can get and at about F8 / F11 and your shutter speed at your max sync speed or lower.

 

[c.cloudwalker]

When using flash in studio, you shouldnt have to worry about meetering since you should set your camera at the lowest iso you can get and at about F8 / F11 and your shutter speed at your max sync speed or lower.

Really? I wonder why I spend so much money on a flashmeter...

 

[gsgary]

When using flash in studio, you shouldnt have to worry about meetering since you should set your camera at the lowest iso you can get and at about F8 / F11 and your shutter speed at your max sync speed or lower.

Really? I wonder why I spend so much money on a flashmeter...

Havn't you ever tried the shoot and hope method , i will have to throw away my flash meter