Dog (sports) Photography: focus question

[astroNikon]

Hmmm. Can you just go manual, set shutter 1600, aperture to F8 and auto iso?

His d800 will handle ISO well too. I was going to recommend the same thing.

 

[Desi]

his first post stated 15-20 feet distance from subject

Yes, he did, but I got the distance while trying to view the EXIF.

Yeah it is in there isn't it

• Lens ID - 162

• Image Number - 30986

• Approximate Focus Distance - 10

He's using his d800 a lot too ... 30,986 clicks

I was wondering how you found that. I guess she was closer than I thought. Thanks.

Dang, I'm burning through my shutter.

I was trying to keep the focus point on her head. But, on most of my shots it is the midsection that has the best focus.

 

[Desi]

Thanks a lot for helping me understand this. I thought 6.3 would be enough. I'll post again after Thanksgiving when I get another try at the sand.

 

[MichaelHenson]

Beyond what has been covered already I don't have much to add. Have you tried using back button focus? Switching to that has helped me a lot with action/fast motion photography because I'm able to forget about half-pressing the shutter button. I can just lock my thumb down, pick my focus point, and spray 'n pray...not really...but sometimes.

 

[Desi]

Beyond what has been covered already I don't have much to add. Have you tried using back button focus? Switching to that has helped me a lot with action/fast motion photography because I'm able to forget about half-pressing the shutter button. I can just lock my thumb down, pick my focus point, and spray 'n pray...not really...but sometimes.

I hadn't thought of that. Thanks! I'll give it a try.

 

[baturn]

Both shots of the dog are pretty good, so you're close. Just experiment with the previous suggestions and show us the results.

 

[astroNikon]

You may want to experiment using AFC-D9 - for Dynamic 9. Since you have ONE moving subject that you want to focus on it will give you a bit more leeway in not having to keep the single focus point on the subject.

When I do soccer I'm in AFC-Single, in f/2.8 as I want to isolate one particular subject, not the person next to them, or closer or further away. This keeps my accuracy high. But when I do single action shots (like during team photos so it's one person at a time) I make it a bit easier and go to D9.

Also the DOF may be different if the dog is running side to side of your position versus towards/away. The dog will need more DOF if they are running towards you and close as their depth is more, versus from left to right.

 

[JacaRanda]

You may want to experiment using AFC-D9 - for Dynamic 9. Since you have ONE moving subject that you want to focus on it will give you a bit more leeway in not having to keep the single focus point on the subject.

When I do soccer I'm in AFC-Single, in f/2.8 as I want to isolate one particular subject, not the person next to them, or closer or further away. This keeps my accuracy high. But when I do single action shots (like during team photos so it's one person at a time) I make it a bit easier and go to D9.

Also the DOF may be different if the dog is running side to side of your position versus towards/away. The dog will need more DOF if they are running towards you and close as their depth is more, versus from left to right.

Agree, that was covered in the video I posted; also in another thread not too long ago. Trying to hold a single point on some things can be pretty tough, especially if there is not much contrast to lock onto.

 

[astroNikon]

You may want to experiment using AFC-D9 - for Dynamic 9. Since you have ONE moving subject that you want to focus on it will give you a bit more leeway in not having to keep the single focus point on the subject.

When I do soccer I'm in AFC-Single, in f/2.8 as I want to isolate one particular subject, not the person next to them, or closer or further away. This keeps my accuracy high. But when I do single action shots (like during team photos so it's one person at a time) I make it a bit easier and go to D9.

Also the DOF may be different if the dog is running side to side of your position versus towards/away. The dog will need more DOF if they are running towards you and close as their depth is more, versus from left to right.

Agree, that was covered in the video I posted; also in another thread not too long ago. Trying to hold a single point on some things can be pretty tough, especially if there is not much contrast to lock onto.

I didn't watch the video

 

[JacaRanda]

You may want to experiment using AFC-D9 - for Dynamic 9. Since you have ONE moving subject that you want to focus on it will give you a bit more leeway in not having to keep the single focus point on the subject.

When I do soccer I'm in AFC-Single, in f/2.8 as I want to isolate one particular subject, not the person next to them, or closer or further away. This keeps my accuracy high. But when I do single action shots (like during team photos so it's one person at a time) I make it a bit easier and go to D9.

Also the DOF may be different if the dog is running side to side of your position versus towards/away. The dog will need more DOF if they are running towards you and close as their depth is more, versus from left to right.

Agree, that was covered in the video I posted; also in another thread not too long ago. Trying to hold a single point on some things can be pretty tough, especially if there is not much contrast to lock onto.

I didn't watch the video

Teehee. No problem. I was hoping it would help Desi or anyone with D800. The cameras seem to really vary when it comes to focus point groups.

 

[astroNikon]

You may want to experiment using AFC-D9 - for Dynamic 9. Since you have ONE moving subject that you want to focus on it will give you a bit more leeway in not having to keep the single focus point on the subject.

When I do soccer I'm in AFC-Single, in f/2.8 as I want to isolate one particular subject, not the person next to them, or closer or further away. This keeps my accuracy high. But when I do single action shots (like during team photos so it's one person at a time) I make it a bit easier and go to D9.

Also the DOF may be different if the dog is running side to side of your position versus towards/away. The dog will need more DOF if they are running towards you and close as their depth is more, versus from left to right.

Agree, that was covered in the video I posted; also in another thread not too long ago. Trying to hold a single point on some things can be pretty tough, especially if there is not much contrast to lock onto.

I didn't watch the video

Teehee. No problem. I was hoping it would help Desi or anyone with D800. The cameras seem to really vary when it comes to focus point groups.

I missed that post entirely .. I was writing my own ... LOL

In the video that camera is the d5x00 which has a totally different menu system but it should get the intuitive juices rolling ... or drooling ...

 

[Desi]

You may want to experiment using AFC-D9 - for Dynamic 9. Since you have ONE moving subject that you want to focus on it will give you a bit more leeway in not having to keep the single focus point on the subject.

When I do soccer I'm in AFC-Single, in f/2.8 as I want to isolate one particular subject, not the person next to them, or closer or further away. This keeps my accuracy high. But when I do single action shots (like during team photos so it's one person at a time) I make it a bit easier and go to D9.

Also the DOF may be different if the dog is running side to side of your position versus towards/away. The dog will need more DOF if they are running towards you and close as their depth is more, versus from left to right.

Agree, that was covered in the video I posted; also in another thread not too long ago. Trying to hold a single point on some things can be pretty tough, especially if there is not much contrast to lock onto.

I didn't watch the video

Teehee. No problem. I was hoping it would help Desi or anyone with D800. The cameras seem to really vary when it comes to focus point groups.

Thanks again guys. I've been doing single point focus for a long time now but I'm kinda new to these action shots. I'll definitely try the dynamic mode

 

[JacaRanda]

You may want to experiment using AFC-D9 - for Dynamic 9. Since you have ONE moving subject that you want to focus on it will give you a bit more leeway in not having to keep the single focus point on the subject.

When I do soccer I'm in AFC-Single, in f/2.8 as I want to isolate one particular subject, not the person next to them, or closer or further away. This keeps my accuracy high. But when I do single action shots (like during team photos so it's one person at a time) I make it a bit easier and go to D9.

Also the DOF may be different if the dog is running side to side of your position versus towards/away. The dog will need more DOF if they are running towards you and close as their depth is more, versus from left to right.

Agree, that was covered in the video I posted; also in another thread not too long ago. Trying to hold a single point on some things can be pretty tough, especially if there is not much contrast to lock onto.

I didn't watch the video

Teehee. No problem. I was hoping it would help Desi or anyone with D800. The cameras seem to really vary when it comes to focus point groups.

I missed that post entirely .. I was writing my own ... LOL

In the video that camera is the d5x00 which has a totally different menu system but it should get the intuitive juices rolling ... or drooling ...

Well gosh darnit. I specifically asked him and google to show me D800. So they did a bait and switch on me huh! I need to leave the Nikon stuff alone because the entire video looked weird to me .

 

[Jim Walczak]

This is just my own opinion, however it's been my experience that dogs chasing a tennis ball...they're QUICK! In many cases, the auto focus on even the most expensive lens out there will have trouble keeping up with them, particularly if they're moving towards you (or away from you)...and continuous focus doesn't do much good if the lens can't keep up to begin with. Here's how I usually deal with it...

First off, as others have already said, try using a smaller aperture...f/6.3 isn't too bad, but for a quick moving little dog, I'd try to get that up to the f/10 range (depending on your distance to the dog). You said you're using a Nikon D800 so don't be afraid to bump up the ISO if you need to keep the shutter speed up. The D800 has a good ISO range and with the likes of Photoshop and such, it's pretty easy to clean up any noise you may get with the higher ISO...don't be afraid to take advantage of it.

Second...try pre-focusing the camera on a fixed point parallel to the dog. This works great at dog shows, however it can bit a little trickier with a dog on the beach (LOL). I might suggest taking a stick (or something else) that you can put just out of frame, but parallel to the dog's path towards you...focus the camera on the stick (or whatever), have the person throw the ball to that same distance in the dogs path (yea...also tricky), then when the dog hits that point, all you have to do is click. I've done this with my own mutts at the river or dog parks and such...I'll pre-focus the camera on a rock or something in the dog's path then click the shutter a hair before the dog passes that point. It takes some practice, but can produce some really good results.

Third, instead of having the dog run towards you, have the person throwing the ball toss it so the dog runs across your field of vision instead. Fortunately when most dogs chase a ball, they don't (usually) tend to zig-zag a lot...they usually make a bee line straight at the ball. Since I'm too lazy to draw a diagram here (LOL), think of a "T"...you're standing at the bottom of the T and the dog is running across the top "cross" of the T...it may not produce as thrilling a shot as the dog running towards you, however it's (usually) A LOT easier to focus.

Last but not least - patience! In this case I'd dare to quote the old adage, "some days you get the bear and some days the bear gets you", LOL! Seriously...I've had days out at the dog park where every picture is a keeper and I've had some days where I've just wiped the whole stinkin' memory card. Perhaps the best advice I can really offer is simply to relax, have fun and let your dog be a dog...if you don't get the shot, it gives you a good excuse to take your friend out again .

Just some ideas to play with...good luck!

 

[vintagesnaps]

I would suggest that too - dog running across your field of vision instead of always toward you.

Shooting sports (maybe this isn't technically a sport but I guess for the dog it is! lol) I usually use faster shutter speeds and smaller apertures. You might need to try f8 or smaller and at least 1/1000 or preferably faster.