HDR technique

[CreativeSnaps]

This Is how I go about my HDR Images. I no long do HDR but thought i would share my technique. I shall add some Images later.

I generate an HDR in photomatix. I then tone map as follows. set the strength to 100% set the light smoothing to Very High. And Micro Contrast to maximum. All other setting at default. I then adjust the luminosity, white point and black point to give a full histogram as possible, but pay attention not to blow any highlights or burn out the shadows. If you want an even darker feel then run it through photomatix again and tone map the image again which will produces an even flatter image, but play around with the white and black point and luminosity to try and get a spread on the histogram. The MAIN TRICK is PHOTOSHOP. Photomatix just gets you started. I dodge and burn, extreme S curve, brightness and then flatten. I then change the mode to LAB and alter the colours via levels with the A & B tabs. I may desaturate some colours as well (any method will work with the desaturation) I then reduce the noise and work it with a mask to keep the main points sharp. I some times add another sky and more often than not I add a texture. Remember that the key to It Is PHOTOSHOP.

 

[GraemeReen]

What's the best file format to save each exposure as before loading up in Photomatix. As I go from a single Raw photo?

 

[KmH]

If you go from a single Raw photo, you can't increase the dynamic range of the final image much.

That's why most HDR images are made from at least 3 exposures that add 4 EV (+2 EWv, 0, and -2 EV ) to the dynamic range the image sensor in your camera is capable of capturing with a single exposure.

I use my camera's native Raw files in Photomatix.

 

[Beav]

If you go from a single Raw photo, you can't increase the dynamic range of the final image much.

That's why most HDR images are made from at least 3 exposures that add 4 EV (+2 EWv, 0, and -2 EV ) to the dynamic range the image sensor in your camera is capable of capturing with a single exposure.

I use my camera's native Raw files in Photomatix.

Hope this ok to ask here but how do you get more than 3 exposure photos? Do you need a higher end DSLR body?

PS. Hope the OP can benefit from the quest as well.

 

[dandaluzphotography]

If you go from a single Raw photo, you can't increase the dynamic range of the final image much.

That's why most HDR images are made from at least 3 exposures that add 4 EV (+2 EWv, 0, and -2 EV ) to the dynamic range the image sensor in your camera is capable of capturing with a single exposure.

I use my camera's native Raw files in Photomatix.

Hope this ok to ask here but how do you get more than 3 exposure photos? Do you need a higher end DSLR body?

PS. Hope the OP can benefit from the quest as well.

I can only get 3 exposure at a time with my 60d, but to get more exposures, I take 3 at +1 -1, 3 at +2, -2 and 3 at +3 -3. That gives me 9 and I get rid of two of the 3 middle exposure shots. I do this quickly in case the lighting changes or people walk by or some other change to scene occurs. It depends on what I'm shooting though. If it's a scene with a high dynamic range (lots of really bright brights and really dark shadows) I will do the 7 shots. If the range is not so high, I would go with 3 or 5.

Danny

 

[Beav]

If you go from a single Raw photo, you can't increase the dynamic range of the final image much.

That's why most HDR images are made from at least 3 exposures that add 4 EV (+2 EWv, 0, and -2 EV ) to the dynamic range the image sensor in your camera is capable of capturing with a single exposure.

I use my camera's native Raw files in Photomatix.

Hope this ok to ask here but how do you get more than 3 exposure photos? Do you need a higher end DSLR body?

PS. Hope the OP can benefit from the quest as well.

I can only get 3 exposure at a time with my 60d, but to get more exposures, I take 3 at +1 -1, 3 at +2, -2 and 3 at +3 -3. That gives me 9 and I get rid of two of the 3 middle exposure shots. I do this quickly in case the lighting changes or people walk by or some other change to scene occurs. It depends on what I'm shooting though. If it's a scene with a high dynamic range (lots of really bright brights and really dark shadows) I will do the 7 shots. If the range is not so high, I would go with 3 or 5.

Danny

Thank you. Im currently using a 400D

 

[jdsfighter]

I use magic lantern to capture my bracketed shots.

Unified - Magic Lantern Firmware Wiki

 

[dandaluzphotography]

I use magic lantern to capture my bracketed shots.

Unified - Magic Lantern Firmware Wiki

Can you tell us more about this? This sounds like it would make my life much easier. Or much harder, depending on the outcome.

Danny

 

[jdsfighter]

Magic Lantern is a custom firmware that runs off of your SD/CF card. When you remove the card, the firmware goes back to canon's default. You essentially follow their instructions, and start using it.

It'll take a bit to learn the right buttons for everything, but it isn't that difficult (especially if you read the user guide).

ML gives you many tools to help with recording video, doing time lapse, doing hdr, bulb ramping, etc. It's pretty awesome.

 

[jdsfighter]

Also, think of it as expanding canon's firmware. Your camera will perform exactly as it did before, and everything will be exactly the same. You basically get a secondary menu for Magic Lantern's settings. It's pretty amazing.

 

[EDL]

You don't have to rely on the auto bracketing in your camera to get the shots. AEB makes the process easier and quicker, and if the camera is fast enough you can even do it handheld, but as long as you are shooting a static subject you can manually adjust your exposure and take as many shots as you like....obviously, from a tripod, of course. You want to adjust your shutter speed to control the under and over exposures, never change aperture for the string of shots.