hi :) qeustion about replicating an image

[shayvidas]

hi,
so i really want to make a picture of someone you know like the ones where the model's hair is twisting ?
i found one i liked, it's somthing in this style.>
like the black and white picture from here>
Makeup & Model Photography in Albuquerque with Kenna | Photo Blog

i guess he has a really really bright light source behind his upper left shoulder and he is using extrimply fast shutter speed to take this photo, ?
am i right ? or i'm talking nonesense ?

the thing is he catches the detailes sooo fine.. how can he do that ?

do you have any other ideas on how to do this effect ?

(the image here is just a refrense there are tons of pictures with the hair blowing effect....)

 

[MitchStrp]

f8+ and atleast 1/200 of a second im guessing. Flash will often freeze motion.

 

[Designer]

The strobe will "freeze" the motion of the flying hair. If your camera does not have "high speed synchronization" then you can't exceed the shutter speed that will synchronize with the flash.

Put a fan behind or in front of the model to blow her hair. Set your normal flash synch shutter speed, but no faster.

 

[shayvidas]

f8+ and atleast 1/200 of a second im guessing. Flash will often freeze motion.

the thing is flash is looking really white if using it.. no ?
and in here the colors looks pretty much alive ...
f8 you mean ... ammm ..(sorry kinda new in here...) ?

 

[shayvidas]

The strobe will "freeze" the motion of the flying hair. If your camera does not have "high speed synchronization" then you can't exceed the shutter speed that will synchronize with the flash.

Put a fan behind or in front of the model to blow her hair. Set your normal flash synch shutter speed, but no faster.

really ?
just using a light strobe will "freeze" the motion ? (by saying strobe you are talking about just a big light box right ?)
somthing like the >
http://www.webdesignshock.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/photography34.jpg
with an umbrella on it right.. ?

i'm not using normal flash... should you use normal flash And a light box ?
doesn't pointing a flash at the model makes her skin looks white ?

 

[Designer]

just using a light strobe will "freeze" the motion ? (by saying strobe you are talking about just a big light box right ?)
somthing like the >
http://www.webdesignshock.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/photography34.jpg
with an umbrella on it right.. ?

i'm not using normal flash... should you use normal flash And a light box ?
doesn't pointing a flash at the model makes her skin looks white ?

You can aim the strobe at your model, either bare or with a modifier, but don't overexpose by using too much power.

What is "normal flash"? You can probably obtain acceptable results by using a speedlight. The choice of modifier shouldn't matter much, just adjust the power to give a good exposure. You can use a softbox or an umbrella with your flash.

 

[KmH]

Strobe light = flash.
Big light box = softbox with a strobe light in it. A softbox is just 1 type of light modifier.
Light modifiers are generally used to make a light source larger. The larger the light source size the softer the light is, and the more diffuse shadow edges are.

The duration of the burst if light from a flash is often shorter than the camera's shutter speed. Studio monolights typically have a flash duration of at least 1/500 of a sec at full power.
Hot shoe flash units usually have flash duration of 1/1000 at full power.
With most flash units, the flash duration gets even shorter when the power level is reduced.

 

[sk66]

The exif for the B&W image link is f/7.1, 1/200, ISO50
It's a strobe (flash) image and the motion was primarily frozen by the lighting. Blowing/whipping hair can actually be moving quite fast so something that enables higher SS's or speed lights at lower power settings might be required.

 

[sk66]

The duration of the burst if light from a flash is often shorter than the camera's shutter speed. Studio monolights typically have a flash duration of at least 1/500 of a sec at full power.
Hot shoe flash units usually have flash duration of 1/1000 at full power.
With most flash units, the flash duration gets even shorter when the power level is reduced.

Those would be the T.5 times. The "effective SS" is the T.1 time (not usually published). For a studio strobe the T.1 is generally going to be ~ 3 times longer than the T.5. For a speed light, it's not nearly that simple (the T.1 and T.5 become almost identical at some power settings).
With "most" studio strobes the duration gets longer at lower power. With all speed lights (and IGBT strobes) the duration gets shorter at lower power settings.

 

[shayvidas]

OMG i didn't new that light box can use to "freze time" it is sooo cool !!!!!
wait so what your saiying that if i'll use a reletivly quick shutter speed (someone sujjested 1/200)
and a normal f (again someone here sujested f/7 wich is not narow and not wide right ? somewhere in the middle ?)
and i'll put a light box behind me ferely close to the model
offcures put a fan next to the model
so theoretecly when i'll take the shot i'll have a similar effect of the picture i need ?
or eve i'll be in the right area.. ?

 

[sk66]

Depending on your lens, use the widest sharp aperture. You may also want to use a slightly higher ISO, maybe 400. These settings will allow you to use less flash power which will freeze faster motion. I'm assuming you're using a speed light and not a studio strobe.

The SS doesn't matter as long as it's w/in the flash sync speed. Use a higher SS to darken the BG relative to the subject. You'll probably have to go to manual mode to get the SS above 1/60. Max speed is probably 1/200 or 1/250 depending on the camera model.

 

[Braineack]

I shot this at 1/20sec.

Shutter Speed is of little consquence when using a flash to expose.


Swirl Tree by The Braineack, on Flickr

and a video:

 

[Gavjenks]

f8+ and atleast 1/200 of a second im guessing. Flash will often freeze motion.

the thing is flash is looking really white if using it.. no ?
and in here the colors looks pretty much alive ...
f8 you mean ... ammm ..(sorry kinda new in here...) ?

Well:

1) If you shoot RAW especially, you can make the color of the light whatever you feel like in post processing. You can even do it once and apply it to the whole shoot in minutes (you want them to all be consistent usually whatever you choose). This is assuming you control all the lights on the set and they are all similarly white (or sunlight, which is usually similar to strobes mid day in color)

2) If you don't have consistently colored light sources on set, then you can't fix it easily in photoshop, but you can put "gels" on a flash to change its color in real life to make them all equal. It doesn't matter much what color they equally are, as long as they're equal you can change it in post. For example, if you have tungsten light bulbs + flash, you might put an amber gel (plasticy thing) on your flash, thus making everything amber and thus everything adaptable to whatever color you want.

Sometimes in fancy movie shoots, they roll out 30 foot sheets of the stuff and cover entire walls of windows, etc. but for small time modeling, you can just put them on your flash. Or again, nothing at all if your entire shot is lit by similar colored lights to begin with.




In the images you linked to in the OP, it looks like pretty much white light they've corrected it to (or began with). Maybe a slight yellow/red cast, which isn't surprising if you want a warm happy feeling with skin tones. But SLIGHT. The woman's skin will add plenty of color on its own with even perfectly white light. Any cast would just be a small enhancement, similar to doing a little sharpening or adding a tiny bit of vignette.