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Nikon D80 inconsistent exposures on full manual

skodster

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Hi All - New here!

I have been trying to photograph approximately one hundred different types of bracelet that my wife makes. We have been using various methods to get the best images. We have been using cool lights with a light tent and an LED bulb to add sparkle. We have tried through-lit translucent plastic, paper set in an infinity curve...everything!

We have now given up on achieving a pure white background as it would take too long to edit all the shots in CS2. We have decided to accept a light grey background.

Here's the strange problem. We shoot with the camera on manual setting and tripod mounted. The room is dim and nothing changes. We are getting inconsistent shades of grey for some reason. I would have assumed that the exposure would have remained exactly the same with only very minor deviancy for different bead types.

HELP!!!

Can this problem be corrected easily in Photoshop instead?
 
Weird.

This may not be right cuz I'm a nooB, but could the white balance be set to auto? Or maybe white balance is affecting grey differently per the color beads the cam is seeing? I'm interested in the replies too, subscribed.
 
The last 2 responds may have found the problem.
 
but could the white balance be set to auto? Or maybe white balance is affecting grey differently per the color beads the cam is seeing? I'm interested in the replies too, subscribed.

We set the white balance manually using the 'pre' setting. The second item is interesting though.
 
What light metering mode do you use?

AEB will only make 1 exposure with each shutter release when the shutter is set to single shot.
 
Your continous lighting may also flicker at certain frequency. Shooting it at too fast of a shutter can also cause inconsistent lighting. Correct me if I am wrong. I dont have studio experience.
 
It depends on the type of lighting. Flouescent is bad. Incandescent, not as much so.

The AC electrical current we use has a 60 Hz frequency (60 cycles per second)

Sixty times each second the normal wall outlet voltage goes from 0 volts up to +120 volts, back down through 0 volts to -120 volts, and back up to zero.

So at shutter speeds less than or equal to 1/60, or at higher multiples of 1/60, there can be color temperature issues with continuous lighting.
 
Check your metering zones as well. If your camera is trying to meter for something that is not in frame for your shot it can d strange things to your white balance and cool cast. If your subject is center frame you may try spot metering which should meter for exposure inn the center of the frame (not exactly sure or Nikon zones) also, you may try shooting in aperture priority mode and see if the problem persists. If not, check out what setting your camera selected fir shutter speed and mimic thus in manual.

On another note, colors in the scene can actually trick you meter into over or underexposing.lots of bright white in a metered scene can trick you meter intoUNDEREXPOSING you capture by telling you to let less light into the sensor by closing the aperture. Black can do the opposite by tricking your meter into telling you the scene is too dark, ultimately OVEREPOSING the scene. Lots of red in a scene does funky stuff to a white balance as well.

If you haven't tried it yet, you may try custom white balance. Im not going to attempt to tell you the procedure for this as it varies with many cameras, but definitely check out your manual and keep it close while you're shooting. Oh and if you haven't, READ it and understand it. I had tons of people in a photography class lady year that had admittedly never opened their manuals.

Hope maybe some if this might help. I would love to see some if your shots too!

Sent from my iPad using PhotoForum
 
Post some pix so we can look at the EXIF data. :)
 

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