Nikon MC-DC2 Remote Release Cord for HDR

Ive posted a few times here the step by step instructions on how to program your D7000 for HDR shooting using the 2 User Modes. No mention of timers. You can set those modes up for 5, 7 or 9 shots.
I purchased the ML-L3 since it was pretty cheap. And so that must tell you something if Nikon sells something cheap. Its junk. I had too many problems with it and it now sits in my camera bag. As already mentioned you must move the dial to Special Function for the Remote. So burst shots arent possible since you cant also select CH. There is also a time limit the remote will work with the camera. After a few minutes it shuts off and you have to start again. Spend the hundred bucks and get the Oppilas Wireless Remote. You wont regret it.
I dont know where you got your instructions for setting up for HDR but they dont sound right to me. Since the D7000 will only do 3 bracketed shots at a time you must do 3 banks of 3 bracketed shots to cover a 9 fstop range. So U1 for 3 shots, A for 3 shots, and U2 for 3 shots done with the method I mentioned at the beginning of this post. Each bank of 3 you must click the shutter once holding the button while camera is on CH so you get the 3 shot burst.

i press the button 3 times with my remote it fires right away i paid 20$ for mine and i never have any problems it works great for me i guess its user prefrence the built in timer feature on the D7000 itself will take 3 burst shots with me only having to press the shutter release once ... theres are so many ways to capture the bracketed shots i guess you have to find the method you prefer yourself i have my own

but i did use your instructions on how to setup my camera for the U1 and U2 ranges and i use it when i shoot
 
I didnt like the presets for the remote. You select whether the camera waits 1 minute, 5 minutes, 10 minutes or 15 minutes for a signal from the remote. If none comes it switches the remote mode off. Then you have to start again. When I used the remote I was doing some finicky setup stuff and if you go get a drink of water or take a break or take too long setting up you have to reset the camera for remote. With the Oppilas you dont have to worry about that. Its always there when you want it and the camera isnt waiting for the signal. So there is no battery drain like the ML-L3. I also found it didnt work that well from behind the camera and worked better when it was pointed towards the front of the camera. And the distance it was useable was pretty short. If you have the camera set up by a bird feeder you can be 100 feet away and take your shot. I tested it out and it was even further than that since there was a clear view.
 
i dunno which remote youre using but mine shoots right away as soon as i press the button

i can set up the remote to have a 2 or 5 second delay if i choose
 
Spend the hundred bucks and get the Oppilas Wireless Remote. You wont regret it..


I looked for that and it seems like its sold over seas...maybe I did not look hard enough. I checked Amazon and ebay and a few other places and they all said china/hong kong.

I dont know where you got your instructions for setting up for HDR but they dont sound right to me. .

The instructions were on you tube but for fast burt on a D700 I know it was not intended for the D7000 3 bracketed shots but it made me think about finding a way to take my brackets faster.
Up until now I have relied on the method of setting my knob to the timer and pushing the shutter button down once and it would delay 2 seconds and take a shot every .5 seconds. As you know this is not cutting the mustard with
sunsets and moving clouds. So I thought I should start looking into something else.

I bought the nikon MC-DC2 and just figured I would by this for now it was $30 bucks and I do not want to spend to much more $$ into this D7000 as I am thinking about either buying a D800 or waiting for the D400. From what the dealer told me about the D400 is that it should be announced soon and its going to have a super fast burst and 9 bracketed shots but, something called photo binning and other great features. I know its all assumption unless dealers get inside scoop.

I would not mind upgrading to a full frame but, I am not sure I want to vest that type of money in glass. I do have the 70-200 and would need the 14-24 right away . Since I have the 50 1.8g I figure I would be ok for now and maybe invest in the 24-70 in the future. But you add all that up and that is a lot of $$$$$ for a person of my caliber. Thus why the dealer said to just wait until the D400 is announced and it would probably perfect for what I want and should range in price of $1700-$2000 for the body.

I just wished they made a little better DX glass. I love my Tokina 12-24 but it would be nice to have something with nano coating to help glare and ghosting without spending $2000 on the 14-24.

Cheers and thanks for all your helpful info.
 

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