One shot chemicals

[Grandpa Ron]

I am sure this is not a new issue.

Like many folks starting out I mixed up a gallon of developer, stop and fixer for film work.

In retrospect I realized that my film work starts and stops in spurts, so my film developer gets old long before I have developed the prescribed number of rolls or sheets.

I have switch to Rodinal for my developer, one use and it is disposed of but what about the stop and fixer? How do you know when it is too old or better yet, is there a one time use product?

I though about mixing portions of a liquid stop and fixer but how long will the partially used container last?

 

[jcdeboever]

I use hypo check. Its cheap and a small bottle. You just put a drop or two in your fixer and if it immediately looks like a swirling cloud, its done. I also have a backup of fixer. TriX is pretty gentle on the fixer but Tmax is really aggressive on it and I have no idea why. I bought 12 rolls of tmax real cheap off someone who was going 100% digital, it killed a nearly clean 2 qt batch of fixer. I was shocked. So depending on the film, it varies but I can say TriX is way better on the fixer, I put it in a dark delta gallon container and mix up a 2 qt batch and it lasts for at least 30 rolls of trix if not more. I normally use Ilford Rapid fix because I can get it at the brick and mortar store. Ilford puts the hardber in it and its easy to mix up small batches. Works great. I think kodaks 2 part fixer is really good and works well with my well water. It almost always rinses spotless with a little photo flow added in the final wash.

I mix white vinegar and tap water for my stop. Works perfect with my well water. It also works well with various city waters. I mix that by eye probably like 1 part vinegar 8 parts water.

I use mostly HC110 because its on the shelf locally. I use D76 a lot as well, mostly for portraits. D76 is a wonderful developer but I buy it in small bags. HC110 is really versatile but it can trip you up if your not careful on agitation.

Rodinal, HC110 are great value. Ilford rapid fix is as well. Im pretty particular to TriX so I can say it is way easier on the fixer over t grain emulsion for what ever reason. Tmax is a ilford rapid fix killer. Maybe better with kodaks 2 part but not sure. My 100 speed film was Acros and it was easy on fixer but it was discontinued but soon to be re released in the U.S. I switched to FP4+ but dont love it for portraits but I get around it by spot metering the shadows carefully.

 

[compur]

Testing fixer:


For stop bath, there is Kodak Indicator Stop Bath which changes color when it is exhausted. Or, you can just use plain water for stop and bypass the issue.