Playing w/ the bigger boys

[mk04447]

Sigma makes a 120-300 2.8 sport lens.

Did you look at the specs for that lens? It is 7-1/2 pounds !!!

Good luck with your arm after just one game.
Or you are tethered to a monopod.

And it is $3,400.
Your pocket is much deeper than mine.
Especially for a hobby gig that you are not being paid for.

BTW, the Nikon 300/2.8 is a bit over 6 pounds.
And it is $5,500.

I like the hobby lol. Thought about 300 primes, but I don't like the hobby enough to carry two cameras.

 

[TreeofLifeStairs]

If you do eventually go with two bodies, you may want to consider a aps-c sensor since you’ll be able to get 1-1/2 times the reach with the same focal length.


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[mk04447]

If you do eventually go with two bodies, you may want to consider a aps-c sensor since you’ll be able to get 1-1/2 times the reach with the same focal length.


Sent from my iPhone using ThePhotoForum.com mobile app

Only decent one is as much as a longer lens (D500).

 

[greybeard]

Your problem with a 300 is what lens?
Your only options (that I know of) are a 70-300 and a 300/2.8.

• The zoom is a SLOW lens. Usable for day games, but NOT for night games in poor lighting.
  
• I would NOT use a fixed 300 with only ONE camera, as it will be too long for any of the closer shots.

So we are back to the 70-200/2.8.

Are you REALLY WATCHING the pro?
You should be able to learn a LOT by seriously watching and studying what he is doing. And having an open mind to learn.

You adjust your exposure based on the changing light conditions, and the results on your camera.
There is no formula that anyone can give you that will work in YOUR situation.
Try different things, and KEEP NOTES.

+1 EC in the camera, when you have lots of glare and reflection, makes no sense to me. You will just get more blown out highlights.

Reading the link, you have to shoot in RAW to use the ability to dig details out of shadow.
In my limited experience, RAW processing, then RAW to JPG conversion, adds a lot more time and work to the process. And if you are shooting a few hundred shots per game, that could add a significant amount of additional work.

Sigma makes a 120-300 2.8 sport lens.

I always shoot in RAW. This does add time, but you lose way too much in JPG and this is a hobby so I don't mind. As I get better with LR, this is getting faster and faster also.

The big problem with shooting RAW with the D750 is that you run out of buffer. If you shoot jpeg with card 2 for overflow, you will triple your buffer. With sports photography it is all about freezing peak action with good focus.

 

[Gary A.]

Shoot to your equipment. Anticipate the action and position yourself accordingly to capture the action with the equipment you have. Shoot to the assignment. I used to be a news photographer (back in the film only days) and I only had to produce a few images per game ... but if there was a defining moment in the game ... I had to capture that defining moment. What are the expectations of the ‘Team Photographer”? Shoot to the expectations of the position (Team Photographer) and to your personal expectations. Usually, one’s personal expectations will be higher than the client’s. As a Team photog, over the course of a season, I suspect you need/desire to capture the play of every position/player. That is no easy task. Keep a roster, position yourself and focus on each position and player. Work with the pro as a team. You are both there for the team and not for yourselves. Divide up the responsibilities. One quarter you shoot the line and the pro shoots the backs, the next quarter change assignments. One photog can shoot backfield action the other can shoot the passing game beyond the line of scrimmage. See if the pro is willing to let you observe how he processes. Team up with the pro ... there is no need to compete, but competition is good when used constructively. The pro can be a mentor.