Sharpness Question

[KmH]

What sharpening technique and software did you use?
Tutorials – Sharpness
Sharpening Using an Unsharp Mask
Digital Camera Image Noise: Concept and Types

Because of the feathers the bird has a high edge frequency. Edge frequency determines what sharpening techniques work best and how aggressive the sharpening can be.

Noise reduction and sharpening are 2 sides of the same coin. Noise reduction should be done before any sharpening is applied, because sharpening also sharpens noise.
ACR's Sharpening panel includes the same Un-Sharp Mask (USM) sliders one would expect for Amount, Radius, and Detail but also includes a slider for Masking - plus Noise Reduction sliders that alter the noise Luminosity and color.

Aggressive noise reduction will reduce detail that can't be recovered with sharpening.

If you edit using Adobe software and don't already have it, you might want to get this book to use as a reference - Real World Image Sharpening with Adobe Photoshop, Camera Raw, and Lightroom (2nd Edition)

The authors of the book wrote the software that is the ACR Sharpening panel.

 

[dbvirago]

Thanks, Keith. I'll start with the lens. It's the Canon f4 Not IS. As far as sharpening, I've read a lot and retained a little. When I did all processing PS, I always reduced noise before sharpening but since I'm using LR, I just realized, I have slipped into the habit of sharpening first, because the slider is first. I'll check your links and definitely buy the book. I admit my approach to sharpening is haphazard - slide the amount slider until I think it is sharp enough without adding too much noise or halos.

Great info - thanks again.

 

[kathyt]

What focusing mode were you shooting this on? One-shot or al-focus? Do you have all 64 points activated or just the main cross points?

 

[Robin_Usagani]

it is 100% crop, what do you expect?

 

[dbvirago]

One-shot. I was going to move to AI thinking I'd get some BIF, but they were being lazy. I have all 64 activated, and I was trying to select the correct one so I didn't need to recompose. For whatever reason, I find this easier on the MKIII than the 40D. I was always shoving the joystick around trying to get it to hit the spot I wanted. I use back button focus if that matters.

 

[dbvirago]

it is 100% crop, what do you expect?

Perfection

 

[unpopular]

^^ that will never EVER happen.

EVER. No matter what lens you're using.

Frankly, Im pretty impressed that an entry level zoom performs this well.

 

[kathyt]

One-shot. I was going to move to AI thinking I'd get some BIF, but they were being lazy. I have all 64 activated, and I was trying to select the correct one so I didn't need to recompose. For whatever reason, I find this easier on the MKIII than the 40D. I was always shoving the joystick around trying to get it to hit the spot I wanted. I use back button focus if that matters.

There is your answer. If you are using BBF and your subject changes plane, like this one most likely did, then it will be slightly OOF in one-shot. For moving subjects you might need to switch modes.

 

[kathyt]

^^ that will never EVER happen.

EVER. No matter what lens you're using.

Frankly, Im pretty impressed that an entry level zoom performs this well.

That lens is amazing. It is an L series, but just not IS.

 

[dbvirago]

^^ that will never EVER happen.

EVER. No matter what lens you're using.

Frankly, Im pretty impressed that an entry level zoom performs this well.

No, but it can be the absolute best it can be with the equipment used - which was very good equipment. Per all I've read on this thread, I made several mistakes during shooting and several more during processing. If I can screw up that much and get a shot this good, then I will be happy with the one I get when I don't screw up.

 

[dbvirago]

One-shot. I was going to move to AI thinking I'd get some BIF, but they were being lazy. I have all 64 activated, and I was trying to select the correct one so I didn't need to recompose. For whatever reason, I find this easier on the MKIII than the 40D. I was always shoving the joystick around trying to get it to hit the spot I wanted. I use back button focus if that matters.

There is your answer. If you are using BBF and your subject changes plane, like this one most likely did, then it will be slightly OOF in one-shot. For moving subjects you might need to switch modes.

Assume you mean switch modes to AI Servo, not stop using BBF?? If I wasn't using BBF, I would more likely acquire a more accurate focus because of a slight lag in time? Sorry, not quite following, but thanks for the help.

 

[kathyt]

One-shot. I was going to move to AI thinking I'd get some BIF, but they were being lazy. I have all 64 activated, and I was trying to select the correct one so I didn't need to recompose. For whatever reason, I find this easier on the MKIII than the 40D. I was always shoving the joystick around trying to get it to hit the spot I wanted. I use back button focus if that matters.

There is your answer. If you are using BBF and your subject changes plane, like this one most likely did, then it will be slightly OOF in one-shot. For moving subjects you might need to switch modes.

Assume you mean switch modes to AI Servo, not stop using BBF?? If I wasn't using BBF, I would more likely acquire a more accurate focus because of a slight lag in time? Sorry, not quite following, but thanks for the help.

Yes, switch modes. I didn't mean stop using BBF. I only have the cross-type focus points activated on my camera, not all of the focus points. These are said to be the sharpest. Much like the center focal point on the previous model. (Mark ii) There is alot of research out about this topic.

 

[Robin_Usagani]

I am still confused what your concern is with the photo. The photo is super sharp for ISO800 100% crop with aperture almost wide open. The width of this photo is smaller than 1/5 of the original file.

 

[dbvirago]

Thanks again, Kathy.

Robin, you kind of summed up part my concerns. I don't want an image to look as good as it can based on the way I shot it. I want to shoot it so it can be the best that it can. In retrospect after reading these posts, I should have lowered the ISO and shutter speed, stopped down the aperture 2-3 stops, and shot in AI servo. I then should have checked the histogram to make sure I wasn't underexposing and made whatever adjustment was necessary. Finally, I should have done a better job of post processing, which would have been easier to begin with if I had shot it properly.

I've been on a lot of forums where people post images that aren't great and give the reason (excuse) why it isn't great and everyone pats them on the back. I liked this forum because I saw a lot of very deep knowledge, a no BS attitude, and a lot of fun people.

I understand perfect at 100% is difficult, but it's not impossible - I've done it many times. Now I want to do it more often and do it on purpose.

 

[Robin_Usagani]

if that photo was not 100% crop and you really did fill the whole frame with the duck (use longer lens instead), then OK... AI servo would have helped. The duck is so small compared to the whole frame. Your DOF is pretty deep already. Plus, as you said the duck was moving pretty slow. I am pretty sure one shot focusing mode would do just fine. You didnt do anything wrong except maybe lower the ISO.