Well for me it's the first I've seen of this. Well done. The only way to get this close to surfers around here is to be out there with them. Not going to happen.
These don't say Wow! to me. Maybe it's the size of the waves or the angle, but they lack drama to my eye. Getting tighter and maybe shooting up, (I know shooting up is impossible.), would increase the drama. I think you need better facial expressions and bigger waves ...