Discussion in 'The Darkroom' started by terri, Sep 23, 2005.
This is the spot meter attachment
minolta 5 degree spot meter attachment - Google Search
Basic read for all really interested in developing own b&w filmhttp://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Developers/developers.html
This paper will help to understand this old, he he, technology.
Hey guys, I develop my own C-41 in my kitchen/bathtub using standard develop times and temperature. I just use a regular pot to keep my temperature consistent though sometimes I get funky results which I don't mind! Here's an example of a shot from a roll I developed and scanned, I can post more if anyone is interested:
Berries on Flickr
Another one using the same method:
Distance by Stark Karim, on Flickr
This colours are very nice. Composition and use of DoF in the first picture is to say at least romantic and pictorial like. Lovely.
I'm developing 35mm film for the first time at home but I'm a bit nervous about getting the film out of the canister. Is it easy to use one of these? AP METAL 35MM FILM CASSETTE CARTRIDGE OPENER CAN OPENING DARKROOM DEVELOPING
Those work gteat from what I seen on videos. I use and old fashion bottle opener for the metal canisters. The plastic canisters, I just peel apart by grabbing the film exit and prying it back, then just pull the top off. But lately I've been bulk loading film into reusable canisters and those just pop off by hand. You can save a substantial amount of money by buying film in 100 ft rolls and loading yourself. Of course that only applies if you plan on shooting a lot. My favorite 35 film is Kodak 400tx and Fujifilm Acros 100. I bulk load the 400tx and use the Acros for special well lit situations.
Do you really want pay that much money for it, when regular beer bottle opener will suffice ? Opening cassette in even "messy" way will not damage film.
Off course the trick is to do it in total darkness.
I use Unicolor C-41 powder kit, makes 1 liter each of developer, blix (combination bleach-fixer) and stabilizer, which can be re-used for 8-10 rolls within 6 mo. of mixing the chemicals, given you express the air from your storage bottles before putting them away.
I selected a plastic Paterson tank as it holds the heat of warm liquids better than metal and has a light-proof funnel that locks on securely more easily and reliably than finding and threading on a screw-on light-baffle. Also lets me see the fluid level in the funnel to make sure I have enough chemical in to completely submerge the film.
For initial mixing, the developer and blix both need to be mixed (separately) into 110º F distilled water and the stabilizer into room temperature distilled water.
Pre-soak film for at least 1 minute in 102ºF tap water, no agitation needed but I usually give it a little goose with the agitator stick to get the bubbles out. Also, a tad bit warmer to start is OK as that helps warm up the film and plastic processing tank.
Developer for 3:30 at 102º F, agitating for first 15 seconds and then 4 inversions every 30 seconds.
Blix for 6:30 at 95º - 105º F, same agitation as Developer.
Then you can open the tank up as after the blix the film is no long sensitive to light.
Rinse well, and then another 3:00 rinse in tepid running water.
Stabilizer at room temperature for 1:00
Then squeegee off the film and hang it up for a couple hours until completely dry.
I then soak and wash the Paterson tank and all its components with dish detergent and rinse well afterward
And I just mixed my second batch of chemicals before noticing that I need to mix the blix ahead of time, or else not use them just as soon as the developer cools to use temp. Because when adding the Blix B powder to the blix it has an exothermic reaction. That fizzing isn't all the chemical reaction does, it also gets hot. Not too hot to mix and store in plastic containers, but hot enough that by the time the developer hits use temp and is used right away, the blix will still be way too warm come time it's needed, under time and temperature constraints.
Consequently, these two rolls have the same ugly color cast as the first roll I developed myself. Well, live and learn, I guess.
I've tried a flat "church key" type of bottle opener and never had much luck with that. However, I have a waiter's corkscrew with a dual bottle opener cut into the hinge, and the pointy prongs of that get right in under the lip of the cassette end to pry it right up. So I would assume that any sufficiently pointy bottle opener cut edgewise into the metal of which it's made should do the trick.
Never saw fit to spring for the special-purpose tool for a function I have covered another way already.
And even in the unlikely event that opening the cassette leaves a jagged edge that scratches the film coming out, it'll only get the part at the end that got fogged loading the camera anyhow and not the negatives.
A regular bottle opener or can opener has always worked for me.
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