Trying so hard - but my images are still mainly unsharp! ;o(

[SCraig]

Could it be both a focus and camera shake issue? Or just focus? Wondering whether I should try a f5 or so on the Canon with a tripod. Camera itself is a Canon600D, wonder whether that's something else in USA terms? It's less than a year old, same with the lenses. Although yes there is always the possibility of a bump. But I wonder whether it's more of a user issue?

You have to look at your camera settings before each shot. You have to know what the pros and cons of shooting at a low aperture or high aperture, or a slow shutter speed or a fast shutter speed, or a low ISO or a high ISO. These three values are called the "Exposure Triangle" and they are related. If you change one of them then to maintain a proper exposure you have to change another to compensate. At the same time each one has specific advantages and disadvantages. As the photographer it is up to you to make the compromise that will allow you to get the shot that you want.

If your shutter speed was too low, then it is entirely possible that camera shake was part of the problem. If you shot at a wide-open aperture then it is quite possible that the aperture was your problem. If the environment was dimly lighted then it is entirely possible that the autofocus module wasn't able to get a good focus lock. These are things that you have to look at before you press the shutter.

To me it looks like a combination of all of them. Some may have camera shake, some may have missed autofocus, some may have too large an aperture.

 

[littlenomad]

Wonder if that's a great excuse to buy a new lense? ;o)

I need a good portrait lense, good for doing shots with a still model and crazy running kids! ;o) Any recommendations?

Although my guess is that it is more technique than equipment.

 

[pgriz]

Much of what you need to know about getting the best sharpness has been mentioned, but here is my list:

1) Take that filter off. (because filters often cause distortion, reflection, chromatic abberation, etc.)
2) Use an aperture where your lens is sharp (which is rarely wide open. 2 stops from wide open is the usual advice. f/8 is generally safe. Using f/8 also gives enough DOF to put a whole person within the range of sharpness).
3) If hand-holding, use an appropriate shutter speed. The usual rule here is that the shutter speed should be no slower than the reciprocal of the focal length forfull frame cameras. That is a 50mm lens should have a minimum shutter speed of 1/50 sec. For Canon crop cameras, the crop factor is 1.6, and the 50mm lens is equivalent to 80mm, so 1/90 sec would be appropriate).
4) If hand-holding, use your IS/VR – this can help minimize camera motion.
5) If using AF, use the most sensitive focusing point. For Rebel Canons, that is the center AF point.
6) If the light is too low, use a tripod. This will minimize camera shake, and also allow the use of live-view focusing. However, a slow shutter speed may allow subject motion. When using the tripod, turn off the IS/VR.
7) Raising the ISO can help get the picture in dim light, but it also (depending on the camera) increases the noise, which can make the apparent sharpness less.
8) when shooting portraits, or people, focus on the eyes as that is what most viewers will tend to look at first.

 

[scorpion_tyr]

I'll just add to the list of suggestions since I didn't see it mentioned: Are you using Auto or Manual focus? If you're in auto make sure you're using the correct focus point. If you're using the center one and re-composing, that can throw your focus off a bit. If you're using manual, make sure your diopter is adjusted properly.

 

[ceejtank]

What focus mode are you using? Are you using a single point focus, or letting the camera decide what focal point? In the first image posted, it (to me) looks like the center of her torso is more in focus than the face, leading me to think that it's more of a focal point issue on that shot.

Besides that, the other ideas I had have already been covered.

 

[pgriz]

Another thing to consider: the autofocus mechanism needs enough light, and enough contrast to determine when the focus point is actually in focus. If your focus target is either dark or has minimal contrast, then you may be better off doing manual focusing. On most DSLR's that's not as easy as it used to be with film SLR's, as the focusing aids the SLR's used (split prisms, etc.) are usually not present in DSLR's. Manual focusing can be done using the live-view feature (at 5x or 10x magnification), but then you need the camera on a tripod to avoid moving it after you acquire the focus.

 

[Derrel]

I see a pattern of significant over-exposure in these shots; is the camera's light metering system perhaps set to a bit of " + " exposure, as in PLUS exposure compensation? That can lead to slower shutter speeds and/or wider lens apertures, which can at times, cause poor results. I only ask because I see something of a pattern in these photos.

 

[Chubbs]

I think you should try moving your F-stop higher than 2.8. Most of the pictures you can see a focus area just behind the subject or just in front of the subject. Which a lower F stop would produce. Also make sure that your auto focus is working properly. If it is maybe your camera is just missing the intended subject maybe try a manual focus? You can always add that blown out bokeh look post process =) I really like your composition in these tho!

 

[3bayjunkie]

Try changing you focusing point on you focusing screen.

 

[greybeard35 7]

Like they all write, try your 50mm at f/4 or f/5.6 If things are still soft then there is a real problem. I'm pretty certain things will sharpen up. Zoom lenses can be just terrible. I have a Nikon 18-105 that isn't sharp no matter what I seem to do, so don't judge things too much with your zoom.

 

[Solarflare]

The Nikon 18-105mm should be good between 24 and 60mm at f/8.

Same for the 18-55m which is great between 24 and 50mm, again at f/8.

 

[littlenomad]

Wow, thank you so much for your feedback! So many good points.

I do use PLUS exposure compensation by 1-2 stops for when I do shoot in AV (which I didn't actually do in these shots, so should have turned it off - good point). Usually I shoot in manual mode.

I do struggle with the auto-focus, the whole pointing then moving the camera thing often seems to throw the whole thing out (doesn't hold focus sometimes, despite keeping the shutter half way down??) and trying to do a manual focus is pretty tricky on that 50mm.

 

[Derrel]

Well, STOP using the "plus exposure compensation"!

 

[amolitor]

Are you sure that holding the shutter button halfway DOES lock focus on your camera? On some cameras it's a configuration option, and on others you actually cannot make the shutter button lock focus (it's some other button that can be configured to do it, usually, in that case).

Also, why on earth are you going +1-2 exposure compensation? Is this some sort of 'expose to the right' thing you're trying out? ETTR is at best a subtle and advanced technique, and at worst complete cargo-cult nonsense.

 

[vtf]

Well I am usually keen on catching these threads at the beginning, must be slipping. The 50 1.8 is a hunter, needs alot of contrast for it to focus and is best at f4-8. People get confused about the 50 1.8 and what works well in low light. I would avoid situations where it required 1.8 and darkness without great care or flash.