Urban Landscape, BW pano

[ksmattfish]

Spencer Museum of Art

Andrew Connelly sculpture and bank

The Love Garden and The Toy Store

 

[Mohain]

mmmmmm ... widelux lovelyness (?) .... :thumbup:

 

[woodsac]

mmmmmm ... widelux lovelyness (?) .... :thumbup:

I was thinking the same thing

I've always drooled over Matt's widelux shots. Great capture with the little girl looking in the window at the toys :thumbup:

 

[Mohain]

Great capture with the little girl looking in the window at the toys :thumbup:

That's my fav too :thumbup:

 

[LaFoto]

Isn't that Maisy?
Yes, your widelux photos are always fascinating!

 

[ksmattfish]

Isn't that Maisy?

Of course!

 

[Arch]

great shots, number 3 for me too

 

[Jazz]

Matt - Well, that was a treat. I love looking at these well done panos, especially #1 and #3 for me. Also checked out your site and thought it was classy and the photos look great. Very nicely done.

May I ask, for these panos, are you making fiber prints to scan on a flatbed? I particularly like that your stuff is mid to low contrast. Do you intentionally stay away from taking a shadow area with detail and turning it over to black? Anyway, it looks that way and I really like it. :thumbup:

 

[abraxas]

Really nice. If urbania around here looked like that to me, I'd venture into once in awhile. #2, very much.

 

[myopia]

awsome. does a widelux take 35mm film and use 2 negs for a shot? never seen this camera

 

[ksmattfish]

awsome. does a widelux take 35mm film and use 2 negs for a shot? never seen this camera

My Widelux takes regular 35mm film, but there is also a medium format model. The neg frame is 58mm long. I get about 15 exposures on a 24 exposure roll.

 

[ksmattfish]

Do you intentionally stay away from taking a shadow area with detail and turning it over to black?

I definately attempt to make a neg that has a long tonal range. Sometimes I'll make a high contrast print, but most of the time I'm looking for something in the middle. I've found that I have a lot better luck going from a low contrast neg to a high contrast print, than the other way around.

If I'm shooting film and using a regular single bath developer I expose for important shadow detail. A lot of the time I just spot meter something black, and underexpose 2 stops from that reading. Then I meter the important highlight detail, count the stops in between, and make a note for developing.

For the Widelux I use Diafine developer a lot. It's a 2 bath compensating developer. First you pour in the developer, it soaks into the emulsion, but doesn't start developing. Then you pour it out, leaving only the developer that has soaked in. Next comes the activator. You don't use much agitation, and what happens is the highlights quickly exhaust the developer in their area, while the shadows keep on developing. It's like auto-contrast control. Diafine isn't as fine grained as the single bath developer I use (generic liquid phenidone developer), and it's more prone to uneven development, so I only use it for troublesome lighting and contrast.