what is are the correct steps for processing RAW files and how long does it take you?

[jwbryson1]

I avoid all the editing and PS and nail the image SOOC. But, then again, I ROCK!

 

[vintagesnaps]

I don't think there is necessarily a correct process. My digital camera (I say that because I have many film cameras) is DNG which automatically produces a RAW image and an accompanying automatically generated JPEG image. The JPEGs are usually not as good in quality so I usually use the RAW image or save it as JPEG if I need it in that format.

I'm not shooting weddings though where people are generally shooting a large number of photos possibly in low/mixed lighting, or portraits that might require more editing. I do find if I'm shooting in low light (evening/sunset) I will often have to brighten especially for printing. In adequate light I don't usually have to do much if any editing; I often print directly from what I shot in camera.

I'm a longtime film photographer so learned early on how to get photos framed and composed the way I want them to be, how to meter and get a proper exposure, etc. and I think with enough practice you learn how to get what you want in camera. As mentioned, the more you can get set in camera when you're taking pictures the less you'll likely have to do after the fact. I think it just depends on the circumstances - what you're photographing, what the existing light is, the intended usage for the photos, etc. as to how much adjusting you'll need to do.

 

[KmH]

Photoshop Elements Camera Raw, CS Camera Raw, and the Lightroom Develop module - all use Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) for editing.
(Elements only has 1/2 to tools/panels CS/LR have)
(Elements 11, CS 6, LR 4 - all use ACR 7)
(Elements 10, CS 5, LR 3 - all use ACR 6)

The ACR panels and their associated sliders are arranged in the order Adobe recommends they be used.
But, I usually start with the sharpening panel, do my global capture sharpening and if needed initial noise reduction, before I then go to the Basic panel.

 

[The_Traveler]

If you use LR, do the steps from top to bottom of the develop panel.

And please don't use the word 'retarded' that way and if you don't understand why read this site.

 

[LouR]

Ok, after reading about how much better it is to shoot RAW I decided to do so recently and am back with a bunch of RAW photos. So now I have a question.. what do you all use to get them from this RAW format into the final versions? Do you batch process any, or is it a standard one by one process (I can see how that would consume hours!!)
What is the correct sequence - noise removal -> toning -> color -> filters -> sharpening? Something else?
And most of all... how do you know, when you are DONE?
I suffer from a little bit of perfectionism.... and I'm scared of trying to finish a RAW file and feeling like its not "ready"

Finally, what is the best software to do all this? I have photoshop, but not lightroom. Or is another suite of products better entirely?

Please educate me!
thanks in advance!!

If you don't have LR, you probably have the software that came with your camera. It will mimic whatever settings are in your camera and you can do initial edits there. I go through my RAWs with the Sony Image Data Converter and then save them into designated folders as TIFFs. TIFFs are "heavier" than jpg's because they don't lose any of the original data (so storage may become an issue) and, because I edit and manipulate in PS and Topaz, I can also save the layered versions as TIFFs and be able to view and/or batch them in Irfanview or PS, if I want to.
No matter which way you decide to go, once you get a rhythm going, you won't go into a panic.
And don't delete the original RAWs-find a way to store those, either on flash drives, externals or the cards you shot them to.

 

[e.rose]

what do you all use to get them from this RAW format into the final versions?

There are several different programs, but I use Lightroom.

Do you batch process any, or is it a standard one by one process (I can see how that would consume hours!!)

Depends. If the lighting, white balance, and scene are consistent I will sync the settings (batch process) and then quickly flip through them one by one to make sure they look consistent. If they don't, I'll make slight adjustments from there to the ones that need it.

What is the correct sequence - noise removal -> toning -> color -> filters -> sharpening? Something else?

Doesn't matter. It's RAW. It's not like if you do it in a certain order vs. another order, it ends up looking any different in the end. Whatever is most comfortable for you. I usually go straight down the line, but once in a while I'll skip something and come back to it later.

And most of all... how do you know, when you are DONE?

When you're happy when it looks. Same as when you're editing a JPEG and know it's "done".

See, I do most of my editing in PS though (depending on the genre), so I do really quick basic stuff to my RAW files in Lightroom to get them to a good starting point and then export to PS to retouch.

But you don't have to do it.

Everyone does it differently. There's no "one way".

 

[480sparky41 40]

FWIW, here's my process:

To start:
• Create sub-directories on hard drive
• Create virgin hard drive copies (second internal hard drive)
• Download image files
• Import geotag data
• Cull worthless frames (exposure way off, OOF, etc.)
• Rate (star) remaining frames
• Batch Rename image files
• Batch insert XMP/IPTC data
• Insert keywords
• Select & rate images

Now the fun begins:
• Load a single raw file into Capture NX2
• Duplicate of original for comparison (Ctrl+D)

Then, adjust original image file if necessary:
• White Balance
• Picture Control
• Noise Reduction
• Active D-Lighting

Then on to:
• Curves
• Exposure compensation
• Contrast
• Highlight Protection
• Shadow Protection
• Saturation

Camera & Lens Correction:
• Color Moiré Reduction
• Image Dust Off
• Lateral Color Aberration
• Axial Color Aberration
• Auto Distortion
• Red Eye
• Vignette Control

Further color corrections:
• Luminance, Chroma and Hue
• Color Booster
• Saturation & Warmth

Now to adjust focus & sharpness:
• Gaussian blur
• High-Pass Filter (my favorite step!)
• Unsharp Mask

Next:
• Add grain/noise
• B&W Conversion
• Colorize
• Color Range Contrast
• Sepia
• Tint

May still need to do the following:
• Color Control Point
• Auto Retouch Brush
• Straighten / Rotate
• Crop (either freehand or specific aspect ratio) This I rarely do at this point.... I typically wait until I know what size print I'm making.

Time to:
• Save raw file (neat thing about raw.... the original sensor data is not overwritten... just the adjustments I made are added to the file. So if need be, I can always delete the steps at any time in the future and return the file to the original downloaded state!).
• Rename, adding "Sell Name" to filename and save as a Jpeg in a separate file.

Export a JPEG to GIMP for:
• Cloning any areas that need it.
• Correct Perspective Distortion.
• Crop to final aspect ratio for printing (again, typically I don't do this until I know what aspect ratio I need to print).
• Any other step that CNX2 cannot perform.


Create a resized image for posting on web.
• Add copyright info to EXIF file.
• Add watermark & create custom gradient.
• Add custom-color drop shadow.
• Rename file, go to website for uploading.

 

[unpopular]

use butter. just slop it onto the card and stick it in. works every time.

improves bokeh, also.

 

[bratkinson]

WOW! 480Sparky really makes a big production of it! Having started with a freebie Photoshop LE version that came free with my Canon G3 in 2003 (or thereabouts), I used to kill myself Photoshopping the daylights out of the pictures trying to get WB right (I didn't understand WB until a year ago), noise correction, cropping, etc. Then I moved up to Lightroom in late 2011 and my world changed. LR first then (still) the Photoshop LE to get some 'final' touchups. But, both my process and computers have evolved in the past 18 months to:

1. Make a separate folder for JPGs, RAW, From Lightroom, From Photoshop, and Final.
2. As I shoot RAW + LJPG, I copy each to their respective folders.
3. Make a complete copy on 2nd internal drive
4. Make a copy on a USB thumb drive (off-site backup (in my pocket) until I retrieve my off-site USB HD after everything is done)
5. Using Windows Photo Viewer to see each full screen, go through the JPGs, deleting the losers in the JPG folder...bad exposure, OOF, very similar shot, subjects eyes closed, background problems such as other subjects looking the wrong way, distractions, etc.
6. Pull up both the JPG and RAW folders side by side, and make corresponding deletions in the RAW folder.
7. Process through the remaining RAWs in Lightroom. My processing here has evolved to be as limited as possible...WB, maybe a slight color correction as well, horizontal adjustment, a bit of sharpening if needed, then noise reduction if needed, and lens correction to fix minor distortions. Like KathyThorson, I then synchronize groups of shots whenever possible.
8. Output everything as JPGs to the "From Lightroom" folder.
9. Copy that to "From Photoshop" folder.
10. For only those that need a bit of extra adjustment, such as detailed cloning to 'erase' background distractions like fire alarms, lamp cords, etc, touch them up in Photoshop Elements and save them back.
11. Although I've deleted a few here and there during Lightroom, copy all 'From Photoshop" pictures to "Final", then make another pass with Windows Photo Viewer deciding which will make my 'final cut' for a presentation or CD/DVD creation. I may remove pictures here due to having better ones technically, or better in terms of subject expression(s), or simply to limit the total number of pictures due to size constraints for presentation/CD/DVD.
12. I also selectively print some final pictures. I'll re-Photoshop them to crop them to 4x6 or 5x7 using the pre-determined cropping templates in PSE, and save them to yet another folder, appropriately named 4x6, 5x7 or whatever.

Overall, I think I can 'bang through' about 300 shots, cutting them down to 80-90 or so before Lightroom, and down to 50-70 'finals' in about 3-4 hours. The big key was upgrading my computer to a 4-processing, 4.7 ghz computer with a SSD for the operating system and all my editing. The backups along the way and final 'in computer' resting place for the shoot is a 1TB hard drive and it's offsite clone.