Where to focus and which aperture to use..on this image?

[amolitor]

1/3 of the way into a scene that stretches off to infinity is.. infinity.

I would not focus 1/3 of the way in to this scene.

 

[dmunsie]

hmm.. I think we've nailed it...at least for me...what my main source of confusion is. Where to focus, which determines my subject distance, which would allow me to determine my hyper focal distance to focus on for maximum dof. I think using f11 or f16 is going to give me the best results. I know this sounds kind of silly..but what is my subject to focus on in this scene, or any other similar scene? What if I'm thinking..."the scene" is my subject? I'm now thinking if my scene doesn't have a primary subject, that is where it could get confusing where to focus. So perhaps I should always be thinking "where is my main subject" in my landscape shots and then use that as my subject reference for calculating hfd. A rock near the shore, a large tree stump in the middle of the lake, and in this case...perhaps the "T" formation of the logs in the water? Does this line of thinking make more sense?

well...another confusing element...I just did some calculations using a dof calculator and regardless of the subject distance, the hyper focal distance is 100% always the same. 1.94ft using 14mm & f11. So, regardless of the scene, I'm always just focusing on something 1.94 ft in front of me? If I switch to f16, it tells me to focus only 1.39ft away.

So I can just pre-focus depending on my aperture setting and that's it....seriously?

(3rd edit...lol) Just did some preliminary tests outside my house and by golly...the dof does look to be much better. Will re-take the shot later today and compare the results. Thanks for all the comments, etc. Sometimes the easiest things take a while to....stick. lol...

 

[pgriz]

So I can just pre-focus depending on my aperture setting and that's it....seriously?

Yep. If you do street photography, that's a good technique to know. You decide where your subject will be (say 15 ft. away), how much of the frame you want the subject to take (determined by the focal length), how much depth of field you want (determined by aperture and focal length), set your lens setting accordingly. When the right subject comes into your shooting zone, you snap away, knowing that within that zone they'll be in focus. So... typically, you'd use a 35mm lens, set the aperture to f/8, set the lens distance to 16 ft. and you know that your DOF range is from about 9 ft. to 40 ft. If it's a overcast day, you'll need 1/125 sec at ISO 100 - plenty fine.


the hyperfocal distances... that's why they are so popular with landscape photographers - once you understand the concept, you set the distance on the lens, and you KNOW that everything you care about will be in focus. You don't need to focus on a specific object, as long as you know how to set the lens focus using the distance scale on the lens.

 

[CaptainNapalm]

Like you I'd use f22 but focus a third way into the scene

Why 1/3 of the way into a scene?

At f/22, using a 18 mm focal length, on a 1.6x crop sensor camera, with the point of focus:
20 feet from the camera, the DoF near limit is 2.21 feet from the camera and the far limit is infinity.
30 feet from the camera, the DoF near limit is 2.29 feet from the camera and the far limit is infinity.
40 feet from the camera, the DoF near limit is 2.33 feet from the camera and the far limit is infinity.
50 feet from the camera, the DoF near limit is 2.36 feet from the camera and the far limit is infinity.
60 feet from the camera, the DoF near limit is 2.38 feet from the camera and the far limit is infinity.
70 feet from the camera, the DoF near limit is 2.39 feet from the camera and the far limit is infinity.
80 feet from the camera, the DoF near limit is 2.40 feet from the camera and the far limit is infinity.
90 feet from the camera, the DoF near limit is 2.41 feet from the camera and the far limit is infinity.
200 feet from the camera, the DoF near limit is 2.44 feet from the camera and the far limit is infinity.
300 feet from the camera, the DoF near limit is 2.45 feet from the camera and the far limit is infinity.
500 feet from the camera, the DoF near limit is 2.46 feet from the camera and the far limit is infinity.

Good to see you have so much free time Keith. I think he's getting the 1/3 of the way into the scene from Understanding Exposure (Bryan Peterson).

That is exactly

 

[dmunsie]

Went to the scene, too late. Photos didn't come out good enough due to poor lighting and probably poor metering technique. Will try again tomorrow. But...looking at the images I did take, I'm now starting to wonder if there is something wrong with the lens. The corners, especially the top right one, seems a bit blurry on far away items.

 

[Patriot]

Went to the scene, too late. Photos didn't come out good enough due to poor lighting and probably poor metering technique. Will try again tomorrow. But...looking at the images I did take, I'm now starting to wonder if there is something wrong with the lens. The corners, especially the top right one, seems a bit blurry on far away items.

That's photography for you. Sometime you just have to go back and try again. I'm still trying to figure out my lens right now. Practice makes perfect. If lighting was bad then use a longer shutter speed.

 

[emdiemci]

This is a confusing thing to me as well, In these type of photos.

 

[dmunsie]

I'm definitely having better success now using correct hyperfocal distance. I know sometimes it's the little things, and for me and photography, it's been an exercise in over thinking alot of the variables. For instance, "hyperfocal distance" >>IS<< actually where you would focus the camera!! lol.. So now, when I'm shooting a landscape shot and want to use f16, I just pre-focus my lens to 1.39ft and concentrate on composition. And no more cloudless shots for me...I've found out the "pretty blue sky" is the worst time to shoot a landscape shot. lol... Just amazing how much sharper the details seem to be when there is a dramatic sky in the background. I'm guessing the clouds soften (diffuse?) a bit of the sunlight which helps. I also find shooting during the first 20 minutes of the "golden hour" sunset seems to give me the best results.

 

[Groupcaptainbonzo]

A great man once said f8 and be there. As good a start point as any. It all comes with practice. All these tables and charts tend to be a little confusing. So my personal advice would be.
the more times you press the shutter release the more you will learn. Don't get too bogged down with achieving perfection to start with. Just enjoy the hobby and the rest will fall into place as you go. But rule number 1 is to enjoy getting there.

 

[premortho]

Now dmunsie, I'm a large format landscape photographer. I kinda liked your intro photo (or whatever these "captures are called) because it did not have that wall-eyed look so many digital captures have. A 14mm lens...hmm, about 5/8s inch. On my 5X7, I use a 9 inch lens. Except in rare instances, it is more annoying to look at a landscape that has soft or out of focus area close to the camera. In other words, a sharp foreground is usually prefered. Every lens that I have ever used has a range of in-focus that would plot out at 30-33% sharp in front of the point focused on, and 66-70% behind that point. With your camera, I would use f4.7, f5.6, and f6.3 and focus close. Take a picture, go home and print it. 8X10 on your printer, which hopefully has high quality inks and Baryta type paper. I'd go over that 8X10 with a magnifiying glass. Why? To see exactly where you are running out of focus, and to check the bo-keh. If the bo-keh is disturbing (Not enough leaves in the diaphram is one cause), go out and shoot it again, setting your focus a little farther away. I've been seriously shooting since 1947, and I avoid buying new lenses like the plague, because the manufacturers cut down (made them cheaper) the number of leaves in the diaphram. Good luck, and I hope you can get some good out of this.

 

[premortho]

Went to the scene, too late. Photos didn't come out good enough due to poor lighting and probably poor metering technique. Will try again tomorrow. But...looking at the images I did take, I'm now starting to wonder if there is something wrong with the lens. The corners, especially the top right one, seems a bit blurry on far away items.

Ah yes, the fleeting moment of gorgeous light! I blew that image up as far as it would go, and it is less impressive blown up to 5X7. For my tates, the lens is too short a focal length. I think that's the cause of the distortion in the corners. But beware; I kike the long lens look. I don't know what kind of lens you have, I have a Joseph Schneider Varigon. I think if you have something similar, try several shots at various lens focal lengths. When you use more focal length, those trees across the water will sharpen up, stand tall, and salute. Try different focal lengths until you get the look you like. Then go home and print 'em. The proof is in the print.

 

[hirejn]

The question is what's your subject and where do you want to focus? If anything in this image is the subject, I'd guess it's the wood under water. It depends on the lens but if you focus on that and go to f/16 or f/22, ignoring all the science stuff about diffraction, the scene should be in focus. Join the f/22 club. Don't let others scare you out of doing something. Just do it. Ansel Adams shot at f/64. Suggestion: try cutting out the sky and just frame the wood and reflection of the sky. It might be more interesting. The bank is uninteresting.