Advice on my next piece of kit please.

[EOS_JD]

I thought that all lenses were variable aperture...??

The clue is in the lens description.

Lets use 2

70-200 f2.8L
70-300 f4-5.6

The 70-200 will be able to use a maximum aperture all through the range. This is especially good at the long end because you need fast shutter speeds when using a telephoto lens (usually 1/focal length).

Now the 70-300 has a maximum aperture of f4 at the 70mm end but as you you zoom out that maximum aperture decreases to f5.6

So this is the variable part. Sure all lenses can go from their maximum aperture to their minimum but when that maximum aperture varies, it can affect the metering of your shot particularly when you go to the smaller maximum aperures like f6.3.

 

[GhostChaser]

EOS_JD, what about the Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Standard Zoom Lens. The big feature of that is the image stabilizer, which is excellent for night shots and action shots. I'm buying one tomorrow, online, through Amazon.com for $379, along with a Tiffen 72mm filter kit for $60 unless you give me a very compelling reason not to.

 

[Big Mike]

The funny part is that what we typically call 'variable maximum aperture'...like F4-5.6...is actually more of a fixed aperture. The aperture doesn't change size, it's at it's physical maximum size, but because the focal length changes...the F number (which is a ratio) changes.

What we call 'constant aperture zooms)...like the 70-200 F4...actually have an aperture that gets physically bigger as it zooms out (to keep the same ratio).

 

[Big Mike]

If you've got the green for it, get a Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Standard Zoom Lens. The big feature of that is the image stabilizer, which is excellent for night shots and action shots. I'm buying one tomorrow, online, through Amazon.com for $379, and they usually go for closer to $700.

I don't think that lens has ever cost $700....at least it should never have. It's a decent lens, but it's not fantastic. On a digital 'crop' body...I prefer the EF-S version of that lens...the 17-85 IS.

 

[GhostChaser]

Well, it's almost $600 at Best Buy... http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=5450326&type=product&id=1051826317219

That's a beautiful lens you showed me, Mike, but it's a little out of my price range for now, and I need a lens with Image Stabilizer for an event coming up next week.

 

[Rex]

The Canon 50mm f1.8 II was waiting for me when I got home from work today and I have to say a big 'THANK YOU' for the advice. Not only can I happily shoot at ISO 100 with it (when it's sunny), the f1.8 is just great - I've never been able to produce images like this before.

Taken with my at f1.8, ISO 100, Speed 1/2000 sec

 

[EOS_JD]

The funny part is that what we typically call 'variable maximum aperture'...like F4-5.6...is actually more of a fixed aperture. The aperture doesn't change size, it's at it's physical maximum size, but because the focal length changes...the F number (which is a ratio) changes.

What we call 'constant aperture zooms)...like the 70-200 F4...actually have an aperture that gets physically bigger as it zooms out (to keep the same ratio).

Hi Mike, yes I knew that but didn't want to get too technical

 

[EOS_JD]

EOS_JD, what about the Canon EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Standard Zoom Lens. The big feature of that is the image stabilizer, which is excellent for night shots and action shots. I'm buying one tomorrow, online, through Amazon.com for $379, along with a Tiffen 72mm filter kit for $60 unless you give me a very compelling reason not to.

I'm not keen on the 28-135 because of that variable aperture. It's pretty slow at the long end (f5.6) and I much prefer something tghat stays f2.8 throughout the whole focal range like the Tamron 28-75 f2.8.

Yes IS is excellent for low light shots where the shutter speed slows but night time shots with an aperture of f5.6? I doubt it.

Also sports shots need fast shutter speeds and therefore IS is not very useful for sports unless you have a very long lens. You generally need a fast lens (like f2.8) to get high shutter speeds for sports to stop action.

IS does not stop subject motion - only hand shake (camera shake).

Get the fastest lens you can afford..... Don't get me wrong the 28-135 will take some very nice images but is very restricted in low light (although that 50 f1.8 you bought is the bees knees in situations like this.

 

[EOS_JD]

The Canon 50mm f1.8 II was waiting for me when I got home from work today and I have to say a big 'THANK YOU' for the advice. Not only can I happily shoot at ISO 100 with it (when it's sunny), the f1.8 is just great - I've never been able to produce images like this before.

Taken with my at f1.8, ISO 100, Speed 1/2000 sec

Very nice rex. I like this.