Circular Polarizer?

jenn76 · Sep 5, 2008

Ok, I'm looking at ebay for circular polarizers, as I've heard so much on here about how much they help... and let's face it, I have tendencies towards blown skies! So there is one that's a Massa brand for $9.99 and free shipping, or Hoya that's $22.50 and free shipping. Does brand matter?

abraxas · Sep 5, 2008

Yes, and I use Tiffen. I like it very much.

jenn76 · Sep 5, 2008

Also, I have 3 lenses... the 18-55 kit lens, the 75-300mm canon lens (58mm) and a 50mm 1.8 Canon lens (52mm). Since they have different thread sizes (that's probably not the right term!), should I get a 58mm AND a 52mm?

Big Mike · Sep 5, 2008

So there is one that's a Massa brand for $9.99 and free shipping, or Hoya that's $22.50 and free shipping. Does brand matter?

Brand doesn't really matter but quality does. Some brands only have crap and some have a full range from cheap to really expensive. A good CP can run well over $100, so I'd shy away from anything less than $30 or $40.

should I get a 58mm AND a 52mm?

No. instead, get a step up ring like THIS. This way, you can buy a filter for your biggest lens and a step up ring for your smaller lenses. You might want to also buy another lens cap for the larger size, that way, you won't have to take the ring off of the smaller lens to put a cap on.
Lastly, consider whether you might be buying a lens with an even larger diameter. 58mm is a medium or even small size filter, you might buy a lens with a 67mm or 77mm filter diameter...in which case, you should buy that size filter and get step up rings for both your 58mm and 52mm sized lenses.

tirediron · Sep 5, 2008

Big Mike said:
Brand doesn't really matter but quality does. Some brands only have crap and some have a full range from cheap to really expensive. A good CP can run well over $100, so I'd shy away from anything less than $30 or $40.

In my experience, most of the 'no-name' brands also have no-name quality. Brands to go with: Hoya, Tiffen, Rodenstock, B+W, Singh-Ray, Heliopan.

Turnerea · Sep 6, 2008

The original poster said that they were looking for a COP because they had a tendancy for blown skys. A COP won't help here will it? Wouldn't you need something like a graduated ND?

prodigy2k7 · Sep 6, 2008

Turnerea said:
The original poster said that they were looking for a COP because they had a tendancy for blown skys. A COP won't help here will it? Wouldn't you need something like a graduated ND?

It would help, CPOL's help with blues and since the sky is blue, its helps bring the blue out. a CPOL in itself already being the light down a full stop I believe...

Actually its funny, I almost never get blown out skies, I wonder how its done... Even with no filters I hardly ever get blown out skies, how does it work? Shooting toward/away from the sun?

tirediron · Sep 6, 2008

A CPOL will help prevent blown skies by virtue of the fact that it deepens the blue of the sky and increases the contrast between the blue sky and the clouds; essentially providing greater saturation. Remember to get the most effect out of a CPOL, you need to have the sun low in the sky (early morning/late afternoon) and as close to 90 deg to the lens axis as possible.

A G-ND is the better tool to use when you have to shoot closer to the sun, during the middle of the day, or when you have an overcast sky of bright clouds and a dark foreground.

A normal CPOL does increase exposure by one full stop, but since it affects the entire scene, it will not work in the same was a G-ND.

maulrat · Sep 6, 2008

Being a newb, I couldn't afford the B+W like many of my friends suggest. I currently use the low line PL-CIR from Hoya. I am very pleased with it. I live in San Diego and clear skies are so boring. But with the CPOL, my skies are deep blue. I only have one lens, the Canon EF50mm f/1.8. When I start spending some big money on big lenses then I'll probably start buying the big filters.

jenn76 · Sep 6, 2008

I am shooting a party at a home tomorrow (a baby's Christening party), and it will be from 1pm-3pm, indoors and out. So would I want to use the G-ND for that instead of a CPOL? Also, could someone tell me what the full name is for the G-ND so I can find one?

Thanks again! You guys are great!

hankejp · Sep 6, 2008

Ok, so I'm trying to figure out this size thing with the Circular Polarizers and found this size chart on this site:

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Plumtree-Photo/Nikon-NIKKOR-Lens-Chart.html

Right now I just have a 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G ED AF-S DX NIKKOR and will be getting a 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED AF-S DX NIKKOR. So it looks like a 52mm Circular Polarizer will work for both lenses. How it this deal?

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Hoya-52MM-Circular-Polarizing-Filter/dp/B00006HOAN[/ame]

Thanks for your input.

BTilson · Sep 6, 2008

jenn76 said:
Also, could someone tell me what the full name is for the G-ND so I can find one? Thanks again! You guys are great!

Graduated Neutral Density Filter. :thumbup:

Scruff McGruff · Sep 6, 2008

jenn76 said:
Also, could someone tell me what the full name is for the G-ND so I can find one?

Graduated Neutral-Density, I think.

jenn76 · Sep 6, 2008

BTilson said:
Graduated Neutral Density Filter. :thumbup:

Is that the one that would have different numbers associated with it? Any recommendations on what to get? Also, given my shooting situation as I stated previously, should I be using a Circular Polarizer or G-ND? Sorry for all the questions! I don't know anything about filters. (obviously!) :er:

tirediron · Sep 6, 2008

jenn76 said:
I am shooting a party at a home tomorrow (a baby's Christening party), and it will be from 1pm-3pm, indoors and out. So would I want to use the G-ND for that instead of a CPOL? Also, could someone tell me what the full name is for the G-ND so I can find one? Thanks again! You guys are great!

The thing to remember with G-ND is that you need a reasonably flat horizon (eg the top of a mountain range) for them to work properly. If you look at these Cokin examples: http://www.cokin.fr/ico3-p1-6.html you can see that they won't give you the desired effect if there are things such as buildings protruding into the sky, as the top of the building will be 'darkened' by the same amount as the sky, and wind up with an odd look. G-NDs are really meant for landscapes and similar, and have little application for such things as parties (and definitely of no use indoors, except for very specific effects).

The best thing you can do for your party is be careful. Bracket your exposures, say 1/3 to 1/2 stop either side if you're dealing with a bright, overcast sky, and try and compose your pictures to have the minimum sky possible. Don't forget to use fill-flash if you have to shoot into the sun.

Good luck.