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Olympus builds IS into the body.
That is camera shake blur and here is why...
Focal Length 150.0 mm
Exposure Time 0.3
F Number 5.6
Your shutter speed was 1/3 of a second. That is way, way too slow.
The rule of thumb is that you want 1/focal length, so what you needed was at least 1/150.
Since you lens aperture was already at it's max, F5.6...you would have had to turn the ISO up to 12,800 to get a fast enough shutter speed. I'm pretty sure your camera doesn't go that high, and it if did, the images would be so noisy, they'd be unusable.
So really, there wasn't much you could do. Well, you could have use a tripod or monopod, which could have eliminated the camera shake, but at that slow of a shutter speed, the slight movements of the subjects would have caused them to be blurry anyway.
One option would be to get a lens with a wider max aperture. But even a lens with a max aperture of F2.8, wouldn't get you all the way to the shutter speed you need for shooting at 150mm. But if you did have a lens with an aperture of F2.8, and also turned the ISO up to 1600...then you might be able to pull it off...but you would really be pushing the limits of your camera.
The real problem, is that there just wasn't enough light. All this would be more simple if there was just more light. That's why flash is so handy....but when flash isn't allowed, there isn't much more you can do.
*edit*
I didn't realize that your camera might have built in stabilization. That will help you out on the camera shake blur....so maybe you could get away with slower shutter speeds....but it only helps, it doesn't fix it entirely. And 1/3 is still too slow. Also, stabilization does nothing to freeze the movement of the subjects.
Olympus builds IS into the body.
I believe the particular model E-420 do not have IS. And with the 2x crop factor, the camera may need shoot at 1/300 for the 150mm focal length.
As above way too slow, shooting at 150mm and 2x crop( equivalent of 300mm) and with your maximum aperture even if you up the ISO you don't have much chance of getting a sharp image without a F2.8 lens
Don't use shutter priority use Aperture priority with your widest aperture and you will always get your fastest shutter speed and get a correct exposure
Thanks everyone...you've no idea how much clearer this is becoming (clearer than my pictures obviously). I did read some 'DSLR for Dummies' type books but it doesn't fit together until you try, fail and then get some great advice.
robertwsimpson - I'll pare down the EXIF data next time
Many cameras won't adjust the ISO, so if you use shutter priority mode, the aperture value will just blink when it's maxed out...then the camera will either not shoot or will just underexpose the images.why wouldnt you use shutter priority if all you care about is how fast the shutter speed is? it's going to crank the aperture to achieve it anyway. and the ISO... makes sense to me.
As above way too slow, shooting at 150mm and 2x crop( equivalent of 300mm) and with your maximum aperture even if you up the ISO you don't have much chance of getting a sharp image without a F2.8 lens
Don't use shutter priority use Aperture priority with your widest aperture and you will always get your fastest shutter speed and get a correct exposure
why wouldnt you use shutter priority if all you care about is how fast the shutter speed is? it's going to crank the aperture to achieve it anyway. and the ISO... makes sense to me.
oh, my camera has an autoISO function... I guess I would just use that... I'm not that familiar with the "priority" modes though. Good to know.