Enlarger Lamps

[70to210mmf4]

View attachment 179299

Ian

That's exactly the information I needed; thank you! Where on earth did you find that?

 

[70to210mmf4]

The RS-35 looks somewhat like the M600. So what follows is based on my M600.

The bulb screws into the M600 from the top.
Below the head, there is a tube-like assembly where the power cord goes into the head. The top of this assembly is where you screw the bulb into.
Twisting that tube-assembly lets me push/pull, to adjust the vertical position of the bulb in the head. The tube assembly is friction fit/not threaded, twisting it just makes it easier for me to move it up/down.

If the manual says to twist it. The assembly might be threaded, rather than friction.

View attachment 179274

The Durst illuminates from the side of the bulb, so you have to adjust the vertical position of the bulb to give you even illumination on the baseboard.

The PH-211 is a 120v bulb.
Worst case, look for a 75 watt, WHITE bulb, without any printing on the side.

Although if it prints too short, you might look for a lower wattage bulb. A 75 watt bulb in my M600 results in an exposure less than 10 seconds, which is almost too short. I wanted to get a 40 watt bulb, but they don't make a photo bulb that low.

Thanks; that is very comforting to know that I can pick bulbs with different brightness to suit my situation. If a 75 or 60 watt bulb is too bright I will try a 40 watt one. Of course, I may just have a problem with my darkroom or I did something wrong to the paper. I forgot about ND filters; I didn't know you can get them that tiny, that they will fit on an enlarger lens.

 

[ac12]

The RS-35 looks somewhat like the M600. So what follows is based on my M600.

The bulb screws into the M600 from the top.
Below the head, there is a tube-like assembly where the power cord goes into the head. The top of this assembly is where you screw the bulb into.
Twisting that tube-assembly lets me push/pull, to adjust the vertical position of the bulb in the head. The tube assembly is friction fit/not threaded, twisting it just makes it easier for me to move it up/down.

If the manual says to twist it. The assembly might be threaded, rather than friction.

View attachment 179274

The Durst illuminates from the side of the bulb, so you have to adjust the vertical position of the bulb to give you even illumination on the baseboard.

The PH-211 is a 120v bulb.
Worst case, look for a 75 watt, WHITE bulb, without any printing on the side.

Although if it prints too short, you might look for a lower wattage bulb. A 75 watt bulb in my M600 results in an exposure less than 10 seconds, which is almost too short. I wanted to get a 40 watt bulb, but they don't make a photo bulb that low.

Thanks; that is very comforting to know that I can pick bulbs with different brightness to suit my situation. If a 75 or 60 watt bulb is too bright I will try a 40 watt one. Of course, I may just have a problem with my darkroom or I did something wrong to the paper. I forgot about ND filters; I didn't know you can get them that tiny, that they will fit on an enlarger lens.

Hoya has them down to 37mm
HOYA | Filters
And you can also use step up rings to put a larger diameter filter on a smaller lens.

Don't forget, you have the color filter drawer, that you can put ND gel filters into.
Just watch the heat, gel filters don't like to get too hot.

 

[compur]

If you're going to use filters, diffusers and whatnot, I'd suggest keeping them above the negative. Otherwise they can degrade the image. I wouldn't attach any filters onto the front (paper side) of the lens.

 

[IanG]

If you're going to use filters, diffusers and whatnot, I'd suggest keeping them above the negative. Otherwise they can degrade the image. I wouldn't attach any filters onto the front (paper side) of the lens.

So you don't place filters onto the front of a camera lens

The RS/35 has a filter drawer above the negative carrier, But filter drawers are quite close to the negative so filters need to be in good condition. I've used Ilford's below the lensMG filters and there's NO degradation in image quality and I've never heard of any cases either they've sold a huge number of sets as did Kodak and Dupont.

You have to remember that Wratten, Tiffen and many others have made gelatin filters for use in front of lenses for decades, over a 100 years in the case of Wratten starting before the company was bought at GEK Mees insistence by Eastman Kodak.

The reality is the Ilford below the lens MG filter set is actually more robust than the filter drawer set because they are held in plastic holder.

Ian

 

[ac12]

If you're going to use filters, diffusers and whatnot, I'd suggest keeping them above the negative. Otherwise they can degrade the image. I wouldn't attach any filters onto the front (paper side) of the lens.

If it is optical glass filter, I would not have an issue putting it on an enlarger lens.

 

[IanG]

If you're going to use filters, diffusers and whatnot, I'd suggest keeping them above the negative. Otherwise they can degrade the image. I wouldn't attach any filters onto the front (paper side) of the lens.

If it is optical glass filter, I would not have an issue putting it on an enlarger lens.

He's talking about optical gelatin filters, they have a very long history of use, I have some graduated ones from about 1910, they were sold as plain gelatin filters or sandwiched between glass.

Ian

 

[compur]

So you don't place filters onto the front of a camera lens

Only when I have to.

 

[compur]

If it is optical glass filter, I would not have an issue putting it on an enlarger lens.

I would.