Equine and High Speed Photography

[glittertherapy]

Wow, everyone! Thank you very much for your feedback! You've given me a lot to think about and will definitely be playing with these various settings when I practice.

I understand your concern with me starting a business, but where I live there are very, very limited horse show photographers, and so we are trying to fill a place in the market that is needed. While most of what we do is just for the riders/horse owners, one of our photos did end up on a Greenhawk catalogue, with my mare and I on it. We don't charge very much at all ($8/one standard edited photo or $30/5 photos for example, at the moment), because we 100% understand our limitations and that we aren't at that next level yet - but people have been buying our photos as we are going along and our main goal is to learn, grow and get better and better. And with so many suggestions, I really think that will help! What we really wanted to do before we invested more into equipment etc. was that there was a need for us in the market - and so starting up was our way of testing the waters and seeing what took.

I should also add that we just do this on the side, neither one of us has any formal training in either photography or Photoshop, and much of what we have learned has been by feel, research and trial and error. We still have day jobs (unfortunately) so this is our sort of weekend/evening endeavour to supply the people in our area with photos of themselves and their animals.

I really, really would love to learn, and you all have offered so much advice it's overwhelming and delightful.

 

[glittertherapy]

I wish that the fences at this clinic had been large enough to get all of the horse's four feet off of the ground! It's so tough when the fences are small - by the time all the legs have left the ground, the front legs seem to be unfolding. Part of that is each horses' style of jumping too - my mare for example has to be jumping a very wide fence or something quite tall to get all 4 of her legs off the ground and still be snappy and square in front.

Currently what I do as far as focusing is keep the horse in focus on the way to the fence, count strides and then try to time it so the horse is directly over top or when its knees are the prettiest. Now, I've read that some people prefer to keep the fence in focus, and then snap the photo as the horse comes into frame, however, when I've tried this with my older camera, this results in a clean looking fence, but an out-of-focus horse. Which way do you prefer to shoot horses in motion?

I also tend to shoot in AV mode, but would shooting in TV be better in outdoor settings? Or is it really just preference at that point? I have played around with it, but that last series of photos on our FB was my first opportunity to practice catching action shots outside since I bought my new camera.

If anyone wants to point out awkward photos from our Facebook or ones that have exposure issues - I am all ears (or eyes)! How can I improve that for the future? Is it a post processing thing or something that I should be adjusting in the camera itself?

 

[tirediron]

..I also tend to shoot in AV mode, but would shooting in TV be better in outdoor settings? Or is it really just preference at that point? I have played around with it, but that last series of photos on our FB was my first opportunity to practice catching action shots outside since I bought my new camera.

It's really about what's appropriate for the situation. If a shallow DoF is the most important thing, I'll likely shoot in Aperture Priority (Av), if I want a certain shutter-speed for a given amount of movement or whatever, than Shutter Priority (Tv) might be the best way to go.

..If anyone wants to point out awkward photos from our Facebook or ones that have exposure issues - I am all ears (or eyes)! How can I improve that for the future? Is it a post processing thing or something that I should be adjusting in the camera itself?

Better yet, post 2-3 of your images in a thread and we can provide detailed critique for them. Picking random images from facebook is time-consuming and not very productive.

 

[glittertherapy]

..I also tend to shoot in AV mode, but would shooting in TV be better in outdoor settings? Or is it really just preference at that point? I have played around with it, but that last series of photos on our FB was my first opportunity to practice catching action shots outside since I bought my new camera.

It's really about what's appropriate for the situation. If a shallow DoF is the most important thing, I'll likely shoot in Aperture Priority (Av), if I want a certain shutter-speed for a given amount of movement or whatever, than Shutter Priority (Tv) might be the best way to go.

..If anyone wants to point out awkward photos from our Facebook or ones that have exposure issues - I am all ears (or eyes)! How can I improve that for the future? Is it a post processing thing or something that I should be adjusting in the camera itself?

Better yet, post 2-3 of your images in a thread and we can provide detailed critique for them. Picking random images from facebook is time-consuming and not very productive.

Deal. Separate from this thread, or is here acceptable given the previous content?

 

[gsgary]

I wish that the fences at this clinic had been large enough to get all of the horse's four feet off of the ground! It's so tough when the fences are small - by the time all the legs have left the ground, the front legs seem to be unfolding. Part of that is each horses' style of jumping too - my mare for example has to be jumping a very wide fence or something quite tall to get all 4 of her legs off the ground and still be snappy and square in front.

Currently what I do as far as focusing is keep the horse in focus on the way to the fence, count strides and then try to time it so the horse is directly over top or when its knees are the prettiest. Now, I've read that some people prefer to keep the fence in focus, and then snap the photo as the horse comes into frame, however, when I've tried this with my older camera, this results in a clean looking fence, but an out-of-focus horse. Which way do you prefer to shoot horses in motion?

I also tend to shoot in AV mode, but would shooting in TV be better in outdoor settings? Or is it really just preference at that point? I have played around with it, but that last series of photos on our FB was my first opportunity to practice catching action shots outside since I bought my new camera.

If anyone wants to point out awkward photos from our Facebook or ones that have exposure issues - I am all ears (or eyes)! How can I improve that for the future? Is it a post processing thing or something that I should be adjusting in the camera itself?

AV mode is best for horses, here's one of mine UK showjumping legend Michael Whittiker shot at F4
Sports Portfolio - Gary Clarke

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

 

[Overread]

Glitter post it up in another thread so we don't get too confused on ourselves.

 

[Designer]

Now, I've read that some people prefer to keep the fence in focus, and then snap the photo as the horse comes into frame, however, when I've tried this with my older camera, this results in a clean looking fence, but an out-of-focus horse. Which way do you prefer to shoot horses in motion?

Here again is the issue of your depth of field coming into play. The speed at which your lens can focus could be another factor.

So if your camera can track subjects, then that is the mode for your autofocus. Aim at the horse's head or the rider's head. Keep the focus area right on the spot you want in good focus as they approach the jump.

Probably the reason some photographers will pre-focus on the fence rail is because their camera is sluggish at focusing and doesn't have subject tracking. If you have to resort to that prefocus strategy, make sure your DOF is deep enough to keep the horse's head in reasonable focus, as it will be some distance closer than the rail when the horse is clearing the rail.

A faster lens (aperture, not focusing) will give you the ability to blur the background.

The shutter speed for a moving subject should be at least 1/500 second or faster. If you are still getting some motion blur at 1/500, change the shutter speed to 1/1000 second. This is where having a fairly wide (f/2.8) maximum aperture will help. Don't try shooting everything at 2.8 however, because the DOF will be very thin, and you may not get the entire horse and rider in reasonable focus. Get the DOF calculator and learn what makes the DOF thick or thin to calculate the DOF when taking photos.

Good luck with the new business. You're not charging enough, BTW. What do they get for $8? Are you giving them the electronic files? You're going to need to start making more money along with learning photography.

 

[glittertherapy]

Now, I've read that some people prefer to keep the fence in focus, and then snap the photo as the horse comes into frame, however, when I've tried this with my older camera, this results in a clean looking fence, but an out-of-focus horse. Which way do you prefer to shoot horses in motion?

Here again is the issue of your depth of field coming into play. The speed at which your lens can focus could be another factor.

So if your camera can track subjects, then that is the mode for your autofocus. Aim at the horse's head or the rider's head. Keep the focus area right on the spot you want in good focus as they approach the jump.

Probably the reason some photographers will pre-focus on the fence rail is because their camera is sluggish at focusing and doesn't have subject tracking. If you have to resort to that prefocus strategy, make sure your DOF is deep enough to keep the horse's head in reasonable focus, as it will be some distance closer than the rail when the horse is clearing the rail.

A faster lens (aperture, not focusing) will give you the ability to blur the background.

The shutter speed for a moving subject should be at least 1/500 second or faster. If you are still getting some motion blur at 1/500, change the shutter speed to 1/1000 second. This is where having a fairly wide (f/2.8) maximum aperture will help. Don't try shooting everything at 2.8 however, because the DOF will be very thin, and you may not get the entire horse and rider in reasonable focus. Get the DOF calculator and learn what makes the DOF thick or thin to calculate the DOF when taking photos.

Good luck with the new business. You're not charging enough, BTW. What do they get for $8? Are you giving them the electronic files? You're going to need to start making more money along with learning photography.

Thank you! The above is extremely helpful.

Yes, I agree. I have been told we aren't charging enough currently - but at the moment our only other real competition charges about that, and we have been trying to establish ourselves and get our name out there, hoping to increase our prices as the photo quality and brand grows a bit. What do you think would be better to charge? For that price you are correct, they get the digital file that has standard colour corrections/enhancements. Anything more than that is extra, such as taking out the background or objects in a busy background.

I will make a new thread for critique! Thanks everyone!

 

[glittertherapy]

I wish that the fences at this clinic had been large enough to get all of the horse's four feet off of the ground! It's so tough when the fences are small - by the time all the legs have left the ground, the front legs seem to be unfolding. Part of that is each horses' style of jumping too - my mare for example has to be jumping a very wide fence or something quite tall to get all 4 of her legs off the ground and still be snappy and square in front.

Currently what I do as far as focusing is keep the horse in focus on the way to the fence, count strides and then try to time it so the horse is directly over top or when its knees are the prettiest. Now, I've read that some people prefer to keep the fence in focus, and then snap the photo as the horse comes into frame, however, when I've tried this with my older camera, this results in a clean looking fence, but an out-of-focus horse. Which way do you prefer to shoot horses in motion?

I also tend to shoot in AV mode, but would shooting in TV be better in outdoor settings? Or is it really just preference at that point? I have played around with it, but that last series of photos on our FB was my first opportunity to practice catching action shots outside since I bought my new camera.

If anyone wants to point out awkward photos from our Facebook or ones that have exposure issues - I am all ears (or eyes)! How can I improve that for the future? Is it a post processing thing or something that I should be adjusting in the camera itself?

AV mode is best for horses, here's one of mine UK showjumping legend Michael Whittiker shot at F4
Sports Portfolio - Gary Clarke

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

Drooooooool. What lens/camera combination do you use?

 

[gsgary]

I wish that the fences at this clinic had been large enough to get all of the horse's four feet off of the ground! It's so tough when the fences are small - by the time all the legs have left the ground, the front legs seem to be unfolding. Part of that is each horses' style of jumping too - my mare for example has to be jumping a very wide fence or something quite tall to get all 4 of her legs off the ground and still be snappy and square in front.

Currently what I do as far as focusing is keep the horse in focus on the way to the fence, count strides and then try to time it so the horse is directly over top or when its knees are the prettiest. Now, I've read that some people prefer to keep the fence in focus, and then snap the photo as the horse comes into frame, however, when I've tried this with my older camera, this results in a clean looking fence, but an out-of-focus horse. Which way do you prefer to shoot horses in motion?

I also tend to shoot in AV mode, but would shooting in TV be better in outdoor settings? Or is it really just preference at that point? I have played around with it, but that last series of photos on our FB was my first opportunity to practice catching action shots outside since I bought my new camera.

If anyone wants to point out awkward photos from our Facebook or ones that have exposure issues - I am all ears (or eyes)! How can I improve that for the future? Is it a post processing thing or something that I should be adjusting in the camera itself?

AV mode is best for horses, here's one of mine UK showjumping legend Michael Whittiker shot at F4
Sports Portfolio - Gary Clarke

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

Drooooooool. What lens/camera combination do you use?

I don't any more but that was Canon 1D + 300 f2. 8 L , I shoot 100% film only now

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

 

[Overread]

Charge low whilst you build your business up - Here's the thing if you build a business charging X amount you will get known to produce a product at X amount. Your advertising; word of mouth and reputation will all be in that price bracket.
You'll build yourself a market.

If you then decide to increase your prices you'll hit a wall because the market you build at X amount won't be the market that pays more. They came to you for that lower price and taking your price up means you've got to shift markets. You essentially have to start over again.


Instead you want to work out your costs of doing business and your income requirements and base your price off that whilst also looking at the competition and what they charge (if you're charging way over or way under you might be doing something wrong; or targeting a different market).

One way you can do this is to charge less by having a higher price but doing a special discount. Your advertising is still your higher price, but for earlybirds now they are getting a discount.


This highlights one reason why learning and earning is not a good approach - ideally you want to learn without earning or at least without running it as a business. Then once you've got base skills and got yourself a working method you can charge the decent costs and produce your quality product.

 

[gsgary]

Another thing to think about is horses cost a lot to keep (I know because we have one) most people would rather spend money on their horse's and clothing I used to shoot and print on site I did ok but most looked at the photos loved them but didn't buy

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

 

[chuasam]

Now, I've read that some people prefer to keep the fence in focus, and then snap the photo as the horse comes into frame, however, when I've tried this with my older camera, this results in a clean looking fence, but an out-of-focus horse. Which way do you prefer to shoot horses in motion?

Here again is the issue of your depth of field coming into play. The speed at which your lens can focus could be another factor.

So if your camera can track subjects, then that is the mode for your autofocus. Aim at the horse's head or the rider's head. Keep the focus area right on the spot you want in good focus as they approach the jump.

Probably the reason some photographers will pre-focus on the fence rail is because their camera is sluggish at focusing and doesn't have subject tracking. If you have to resort to that prefocus strategy, make sure your DOF is deep enough to keep the horse's head in reasonable focus, as it will be some distance closer than the rail when the horse is clearing the rail.

A faster lens (aperture, not focusing) will give you the ability to blur the background.

The shutter speed for a moving subject should be at least 1/500 second or faster. If you are still getting some motion blur at 1/500, change the shutter speed to 1/1000 second. This is where having a fairly wide (f/2.8) maximum aperture will help. Don't try shooting everything at 2.8 however, because the DOF will be very thin, and you may not get the entire horse and rider in reasonable focus. Get the DOF calculator and learn what makes the DOF thick or thin to calculate the DOF when taking photos.

Good luck with the new business. You're not charging enough, BTW. What do they get for $8? Are you giving them the electronic files? You're going to need to start making more money along with learning photography.

Thank you! The above is extremely helpful.

Yes, I agree. I have been told we aren't charging enough currently - but at the moment our only other real competition charges about that, and we have been trying to establish ourselves and get our name out there, hoping to increase our prices as the photo quality and brand grows a bit. What do you think would be better to charge? For that price you are correct, they get the digital file that has standard colour corrections/enhancements. Anything more than that is extra, such as taking out the background or objects in a busy background.

I will make a new thread for critique! Thanks everyone!

my GF charges any where from $40 per image to as low as $25 (if bought in bulk with all the early bird discounts)
or a day rate of about €900 plus travel plus hotel and food allowance . She specialises more in Dressage rather than Show Jumping or Eventing.
So what I do know comes from her yammering on about work.

To reiterate, forget about the technicals, any half decent photographer can do that. Learn that later. Figure out what makes you unique. What story you want to tell with your images. Understand the light. Know what time you're shooting and where the sun will be. Know the angles to shoot from to get the shot. Understand timing, and the poses. When this hock matches that hock and how to make your subject look good rather than Shrek on a Donkey. blah blah horse this horse that (that's how it sounds like in my ears anyway)

As for gear, it's usually a D810 with a 300mm f/2.8 VRII, second D810 70-200mm f/2.8 VRII, D700 with a 24-70mm f/2.8 triggered remotely with pocket wizards.

 

[StefaninLA]

I just started to learn what I think you are going for, Is this the look you are going for?

 

[chuasam]

I just started to learn what I think you are going for, Is this the look you are going for?View attachment 122635

I would love to see a horse on a motorbike.