Expired Ilford Delta 3200

[WhaleDaughter]

When I purchased my Mamiya-Six folder recently, the guy threw in a roll of Ilford Delta 3200 that has an expiry date of July 201? (Most likely either 2010 or 2012, but too much of the last number is gone for a definitive answer).

Today I thought of perhaps brining one of my folders to an indoor event this weekend for kicks, where 3200 speed film would be appropriate (especially for a camera with a top speed of either 1/500 or 1/300).

But is this film even still worth trying? He said he'd kept it in his fridge, and the foil package is still sealed. These aren't instant snap cameras, each takes a bit of time to set up the shot (one has an uncoupled range finder!). I don't want to waste everyone's time for shots that won't come out ("hey stranger, will you stand here for 5 minutes while I take your picture with this antique?").

Any advice?


"Rule 408: Time is not the boss of you"

 

[denada]

people on instagram successfully use film much older than that all the time. but it often looks expired.

 

[john.margetts]

I have recently and successfully used film that expired in 1974 - a bit grainy and low contrast but useable. Accepted wisdom is you need to halve the speed of the film for each decade past its expiry.

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[compur]

When I purchased my Mamiya-Six folder recently, the guy threw in a roll of Ilford Delta 3200 that has an expiry date of July 201? (Most likely either 2010 or 2012, but too much of the last number is gone for a definitive answer).

Today I thought of perhaps brining one of my folders to an indoor event this weekend for kicks, where 3200 speed film would be appropriate (especially for a camera with a top speed of either 1/500 or 1/300).

But is this film even still worth trying? He said he'd kept it in his fridge, and the foil package is still sealed. These aren't instant snap cameras, each takes a bit of time to set up the shot (one has an uncoupled range finder!). I don't want to waste everyone's time for shots that won't come out ("hey stranger, will you stand here for 5 minutes while I take your picture with this antique?").

Any advice?

I doubt you'll see any difference from fresh film, especially since it's been cold stored. Conventional B&W film has much greater tolerance than color film for expiration dates.

 

[WhaleDaughter]

I doubt you'll see any difference from fresh film, especially since it's been cold stored. Conventional B&W film has much greater tolerance than color film for expiration dates.

That's good information to know, thank you.


"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act but a habit." ~Aristotle

 

[WhaleDaughter]

I have recently and successfully used film that expired in 1974 - a bit grainy and low contrast but useable. Accepted wisdom is you need to halve the speed of the film for each decade past its expiry.

Sent from my A1-840 using Tapatalk

I didn't know this about vintage film. Good to know, thank you.


"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act but a habit." ~Aristotle

 

[limr]

Even if it were fresh, I've read that it's better shot at 1600. It's not truly a 3200 ISO emulsion, but just one that pushes well. I've only tried it once and didn't have good results, but I think that was mostly user error.

 

[vintagesnaps]

B&W can last years. Color if it's from 201?something should be fine (unless it had been left in heat but if it was cold stored it should still be good). Color can shift if the film's old enough.

Usually I use film that's expired or experimental if I'm out shooting something experimental or just for fun, playing with a camera, etc. For something at all important or significant or that I wouldn't be able to reshoot I use fresh film.

 

[webestang64]

Film has a curve. The curve goes up to the "expiration" date and then falls off. The month film expires is the best time to shoot that roll as it's at it's peak curve. The older film gets the "darker" the film base gets as the silver layer turns to black, called "base fog" base turns lighter with E-6. BW film can be shot well passed it's expire month can't say the same for color print film or slides.

I recommend Kodak X-Tol developer for 3200 speed films as it will reduce base fog.

 

[Dave Colangelo]

I just ran a roll of expired fuji color that I found in a drawer at my parents house (from the early 2000's). Shot it and processed it at box speed, it was a bit dark but it worked just fine. Like any expiration dates there is some leeway. BW film holds up much better than color due to the way its made. You can find a bunch out there about shooting and developing old film but most of it is in relation to film that is >30 years old. You can adjust processing times etc, but in this case I would say none of that is really necessary. Shoot it and have some fun with it!

Dave

 

[compur]

Once I had some expired film listed for sale on eBay (as I often do) and someone wrote to me to tell me I should be ashamed of myself for listing this because everyone knows film stops working on its expiration date. They were serious and said they'd "report me to eBay."

 

[Kisatchie]

I realize that this thread is over a month old, but I'd like to point out that Delta 3200 film is actually an ISO 1000 film, according to Wikipedia. See:

Ilford Delta - Wikipedia

If that is not too trustworthy, then go by Ilford's recommended development times for Delta 3200. They list times for ISO 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, and 12,500 for those who would develop it themselves. If you decide to let a lab process it, be SURE to tell them what ISO you exposed it for.

 

[john.margetts]

Wikipedia is not the fount of all wisdom nor is ISO just a number makers put on a film. Whatever ISO number Harmon use, it should be the result of applying the exposure and development regime specified in the Standards document. If that process does not give a number of 3200, the Harmon would be committing fraud by claiming it does.

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[webestang64]

I realize that this thread is over a month old, but I'd like to point out that Delta 3200 film is actually an ISO 1000 film, according to Wikipedia. See:

Ilford Delta - Wikipedia

If that is not too trustworthy, then go by Ilford's recommended development times for Delta 3200. They list times for ISO 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, and 12,500 for those who would develop it themselves. If you decide to let a lab process it, be SURE to tell them what ISO you exposed it for.

It's more like 1250 ISO (according to the Ilford rep I talked to when this film was first introduced), and yes, the standard process time for this film shot at 3200 is a "push". I've had people tell me at work to process their 3200 at 1250 and not charge for a pull but then I tell them that yes, that is the "true" ISO but the film can itself has a DX code of 3200, so yes, I charge for a pull process. BTW....I've shot this film at 25000 ISO with good results.

 

[sniper x]

A few factors come into play when using expired film. From what I have READ of course. Whether it has been in a cooler, how you actually rate it compared to it's ASA, and whether it is B&W or Colour. I have read that if it is shot at it's ASA and pushed or pulled (don't remember which to do) in development, it can look very near what it was supposed to when new. And this information was published on the internet so we all know it's true.