Fix time for Kentmere 400 B&W with Kodak fixer

[Joe Scotto]

I am about to develop my first roll of B&W film tonight and am confused as to what times I need to use. I know that the D-76 is 9.5 minutes but the fixer has no clear times. I will post the film, developer, and fixer that I am using below.

Film: Kentmere 400 Black and White
Developer: Kodak D-76 for Black and White
Fixer: Kodak Fixer for Black and White

*All my chemicals were bought in powder form.

 

[gsgary]

5 to 10 minutes with powder fixer, just have a quick look at about 7 minutes if it looks milky keep fixing until it is clear

 

[chris]

Trim the leader from the film before loading it in the reel and cut it in two. When you start fixing the film in the developing tank pour a small amount of fixer into a container and add one of the pieces of the leader. When this piece has cleared add the second piece; when this has cleared your film should be adequately fixed and you can pour the fixer out of the tank and commence washing the film.

 

[Joe Scotto]

Here's the results: Canon AE-1 - an album on Flickr ignore the color one's, they were done at a lab

 

[Josh66]

Trim the leader from the film before loading it in the reel and cut it in two. When you start fixing the film in the developing tank pour a small amount of fixer into a container and add one of the pieces of the leader. When this piece has cleared add the second piece; when this has cleared your film should be adequately fixed and you can pour the fixer out of the tank and commence washing the film.

A slightly easier way to do it is to take the leader that you have to cut off anyway, put a drop of fixer on it, wait a couple minutes (you could use this time to measure out the other chemicals), then drop it in some fixer and start the timer. When you can't see the dot from the drop anymore, double whatever time that was. That is the minimum time that you need to fix the film.

 

[timor]

Here's the results: Canon AE-1 - an album on Flickr ignore the color one's, they were done at a lab

B&W shots like under exposed by 1.5 stops... or under developed (is the negative thin ?) Or scanned not to well. Take your pick. Photographs are just flat, no proper contrast.
Fixing time has nothing to do with that.

 

[Joe Scotto]

Here's the results: Canon AE-1 - an album on Flickr ignore the color one's, they were done at a lab

B&W shots like under exposed by 1.5 stops... or under developed (is the negative thin ?) Or scanned not to well. Take your pick. Photographs are just flat, no proper contrast.
Fixing time has nothing to do with that.

Any recommendations as to how I can get proper exposures? I am new to film photography.

 

[timor]

The best way would be to compare the meter readings from your camera with readings from good handheld light meter.
What battery do you have in your camera ? Is it the proper one ?
What is your developing procedure ? Maybe fault is there (quite possible).

 

[Joe Scotto]

The best way would be to compare the meter readings from your camera with readings from good handheld light meter.
What battery do you have in your camera ? Is it the proper one ?
What is your developing procedure ? Maybe fault is there (quite possible).

When I develop I agitate continuously for the first minute and 15 seconds per minute after the initial minute for 10 minutes. When fixing I follow the same procedure as developing for 7 minutes.

 

[timor]

When I develop I agitate continuously for the first minute and 15 seconds per minute after the initial minute for 10 minutes. When fixing I follow the same procedure as developing for 7 minutes.

OK. What developer and in what concentration are you using ?

 

[Joe Scotto]

When I develop I agitate continuously for the first minute and 15 seconds per minute after the initial minute for 10 minutes. When fixing I follow the same procedure as developing for 7 minutes.

OK. What developer and in what concentration are you using ?

I am using Kodak D-76 and Kodak fixer in stock

 

[timor]

When I develop I agitate continuously for the first minute and 15 seconds per minute after the initial minute for 10 minutes. When fixing I follow the same procedure as developing for 7 minutes.

OK. What developer and in what concentration are you using ?

I am using Kodak D-76 and Kodak fixer in stock

That should be sufficient to achieve good contrast. Since your pictures are full of detail let's question your scanning style. I tried something and it works out OK, I restored almost full dynamic range of the picture with simple editor. ( Pic #21.)(To see it you have to let me post an edit of your pic.)

 

[Joe Scotto]

When I develop I agitate continuously for the first minute and 15 seconds per minute after the initial minute for 10 minutes. When fixing I follow the same procedure as developing for 7 minutes.

OK. What developer and in what concentration are you using ?

I am using Kodak D-76 and Kodak fixer in stock

That should be sufficient to achieve good contrast. Since your pictures are full of detail let's question your scanning style. I tried something and it works out OK, I restored almost full dynamic range of the picture with simple editor. ( Pic #21.)(To see it you have to let me post an edit of your pic.)

How would I allow you to post it? If all I have to say is do it then go ahead.

 

[timor]

OK. Thanks.
Your avatar says that your photos are not OK to edit.
This is what I've got:

 

[timor]

Better ?