flash sync speed

[nateMN]

Playing around with my 430ex, I found I can have an extremely fast shutter speed (1/4000) on the hot shoe with no issues (manual mode). However, when I put the strobe off camera via cactus V4s, I have issues (see below) anything faster than 1/200.

Is 1/200 the fastest shutter speed I can get with the 450D??

Settings
Strobe: 1/8 power at 24mm, manual mode.
Camera (all images): ISO100 50mm f/5.0

1/200, 1/250

1/320, 1/400

Edit: does this belong in the beginners section?

 

[DeadEye]

Stay below 1/250 to sync off camera. On cam or you are in FP pulse mode


Google how a focal plane shutter works you can see the shutter in shots above 1/250

 

[nateMN]

Thanks for the reply. That's what I was afraid of. I was hoping I was just missing a certain setting to go faster than 1/200.

 

[Village Idiot]

Thanks for the reply. That's what I was afraid of. I was hoping I was just missing a certain setting to go faster than 1/200.

It's usually not a problem. I think Canon's manual suggest 1/160 as the maximum x sync with non Canon flashes (meaning proprietary and sitting in the hot shoe).

It's your triggers as well. Cactus triggers aren't the highest quality product out there. Cyber syncs, skyports, and pocket wizards should all allow you to have an x sync of 1/250. Additionally there's other options like using a TTL enabled trigger like a radio popper or the new pocket wizards that will allow you to use HSS off camera or trick the flash into firing at a different timing than the camera so you can have an x sync of 1/500 with just the native manual flash mode.

Then again, it's paying $400 for a trigger and receiver vs. paying $60.

Edit: Also, other tricks. Using a smaller aperture to kill the ambient and a higher strobe power to keep the desired exposure.

Using a shutter speed faster than the camera's x sync and zooming out so you can crop the black from the shutter out of the frame or shooting with ambient and putting the black from the shutter in a spot where the ambient will cover the exposure.

 

[nateMN]

Also, other tricks. Using a smaller aperture to kill the ambient and a higher strobe power to keep the desired exposure.

Thanks for the input. I was looking more towards freezing action type shots using off camera flash rather than manipulating and/or getting correct exposure settings.

 

[fokker]

I went throught this same dilemma when first trying to freeze action shots. What I eventually learned was the best way to it, if you're in a controlled environment at least, is this:
-Turn off as much ambient light as possible
-Use a long shutter speed (could even be a few seconds or more if there is no ambient light, it doesn't really matter too much)
-Use the flash to freeze the motion of the subject - the flash firing duration is in the thousandths of a second range, so will effectively stop any motion, and since the flash is providing ALL the light for the exposure nothing will be blurred.

 

[Big Mike]

With the flash attached to the camera, you have the option of using HHS (high speed sync), which is why you could get up to 1/4000 with the shutter speed.

What this mode does, is pulse the flash many times throughout the exposure, rather than just fire it once. The problem is that it can't put out much power, so your working range is severely limited when using this mode.

You can use this mode off-camera...but you would need to use the right system. One option would be to use the Canon wireless system, which would mean having a Canon 'Master' unit on the camera. The other option would be to use the new Pocket Wizards (Flex/Mini).

 

[Village Idiot]

Also, other tricks. Using a smaller aperture to kill the ambient and a higher strobe power to keep the desired exposure.

Thanks for the input. I was looking more towards freezing action type shots using off camera flash rather than manipulating and/or getting correct exposure settings.

Unless you're shooting in bright daylight, it's better to kill the ambient and let the flash do it's job. Small speedlights can get up to a speed of about 1/15,000 for flash duration. That's much faster than your camera and it's very easy to kill ambient unless you're outside.

 

[LarryD]

The flash burst will stop the action, you don't always need action stopping shutter speeds..

One of the better uses for high speed flash synch is when shooting a brightly side or back lit subject where the high shutter speed is needed. Fill flash can then by synched to pick up the shadow details..