TCampbell
Been spending a lot of time on here!
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2012
- Messages
- 3,614
- Reaction score
- 1,556
- Location
- Dearborn, MI
- Can others edit my Photos
- Photos OK to edit
Getting the horizontal lines level is easier... just make sure the camera is level left-to-right.
Getting the vertical lines plumb is a bit trickier.
If the camera lens is pointed up - rather than pointed level toward the horizon line - then vertical lines will pinch inward as you follow them up. If the camera lens is pointed down then the lines will spread apart as you follow them up. So the trick is to have the camera not just left from side-to-side, but also level from front-to-back.
This solves one problem, but creates another because now you're likely cutting off the tops of tall structures.
You can fix this either in post-processing (e.g. Photoshop's transform tools or it's lens-correction filters are two different ways to do it.) -OR- you can use a tilt-shift lens and use the "shift" adjustment.
Both of these images were shot with the same lens (and it is a tilt-shift lens) but in the first image the lens is in the neutral position (so it's basically acting like an ordinary lens - having no tilt and no shift adjustment dialed in.)
Riverhouse (uncorrected) by Tim Campbell, on Flickr
In this image, I've applied an upward shift (only the shift axis is adjusted to do this - no tilt axis is used.)
Riverhouse by Tim Campbell, on Flickr
There is one tip I learned a while back... which is that the verticals should not be perfectly plumb. They should pinch in... but just very very slightly. Basically you would adjust the shift until you think it's perfect... and then just back off the shift by a very tiny amount so that you're only maybe 98% correcting instead of 100% correcting. The reason for this is that the brain actually does EXPECT things to pinch in and if they don't pinch inward at least a tiny amount then the brain is tricked into thinking that the structure is actually getting wider as it goes up (even though if you overlaid a grid you'd see it's perfect). It's just an optical illusion. But pinch it in just a fraction and the building will look normal.
Getting the vertical lines plumb is a bit trickier.
If the camera lens is pointed up - rather than pointed level toward the horizon line - then vertical lines will pinch inward as you follow them up. If the camera lens is pointed down then the lines will spread apart as you follow them up. So the trick is to have the camera not just left from side-to-side, but also level from front-to-back.
This solves one problem, but creates another because now you're likely cutting off the tops of tall structures.
You can fix this either in post-processing (e.g. Photoshop's transform tools or it's lens-correction filters are two different ways to do it.) -OR- you can use a tilt-shift lens and use the "shift" adjustment.
Both of these images were shot with the same lens (and it is a tilt-shift lens) but in the first image the lens is in the neutral position (so it's basically acting like an ordinary lens - having no tilt and no shift adjustment dialed in.)
Riverhouse (uncorrected) by Tim Campbell, on Flickr
In this image, I've applied an upward shift (only the shift axis is adjusted to do this - no tilt axis is used.)
Riverhouse by Tim Campbell, on Flickr
There is one tip I learned a while back... which is that the verticals should not be perfectly plumb. They should pinch in... but just very very slightly. Basically you would adjust the shift until you think it's perfect... and then just back off the shift by a very tiny amount so that you're only maybe 98% correcting instead of 100% correcting. The reason for this is that the brain actually does EXPECT things to pinch in and if they don't pinch inward at least a tiny amount then the brain is tricked into thinking that the structure is actually getting wider as it goes up (even though if you overlaid a grid you'd see it's perfect). It's just an optical illusion. But pinch it in just a fraction and the building will look normal.